SMF - Just Installed!
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Alan,I first contacted Midwest Cylinder Head in Iowa only to find out they no longer did any cast iron welding. Here is a link to the place I talked to in Wisconsin. Good luck! https://www.castmetalwelding.com/
Curious where in Wisconsin you got a quote to do cast iron welding… I’ve been looking for a place to fix some iron stuff… also curious where your getting rods for tig welding. I’ve got an old kitchen oven wired in my shop now so I could try welding on some heads that I want to change the shape of and fix a couple holes if possible. So far I’ve only had limited success.
Well, that one isn't going to be so easy.Thank you for your insight. Those are some things I hadn't considered. It's a standard bore (marine) block and it's also a s/o that has been machined for hydraulic lifters. The more I look at it the more I also think the tapered plugs probably won't work. I have contacted (email) a place that specializes in welding up cracked blocks and am waiting for a response back.
One of the greatest concerns here might be in the positioning relationship of the loading for the gasket fire-ring versus the cylinder head bolt hole with the crack separating the two. This is a high stress area, where when assembled, the bolt hole is being pulled up with several tons of pressure, while the gasket fire-ring trapped between head and block deck is loading the top of the cylinder column effectively trying to push it down, and is probably the cause of this crack in between.
What this means is that the repair is going to have to result in a sum of structural soundness that surpasses what was there before; and this isn't going to be achieved with solely a "cold-repair", and although I don't see any other option beyond welding as being prudent, but it in itself comes with limitations and drawbacks, even when executed by a capable individual.
And yes, a sleeve (or two) will probably also be required, if the repair effort gets that far.
B.T.W. What is the blocks' current bore size, as it probably will require to be something greater after the initial crack repair process so if it's already out near its' limit then . . . . . ?
Scott.
Dang the price of those has gone up. That crack goes well into the bore. That will be a challenge to have a nice finished product. I truly hope it works out.That's concern I have. That cylinder will need a sleeve anyway. I may call my machine shop and get their opinion before I spend a bunch of money.
The red knob is for the Gear Vendor overdrive and I put the control switches on a panel that replaces the ash tray. The black box is the cruise control. I be stylin’ in this rig.
I should have recognized the GV Overdrive hardware.
Cruise control? How does that work? The only ones I recall, beyond the modern electronic "fly by wire" systems, were the old vacuum operated ones. That doesn't look like one of those. Do you have a link to the system?
Looks good, Alan. What's the red pull knob on the shifter and the black box on the drivers inner fender for? I'm guessing the switch and some sort of meter on the ashtray lid are related to the black box? AC related?
Very nice, are you happy with the a/c? Planning one for my 71 this year.So far I like it. It's quieter than the OEM heater fan. When I charged it it was around 70 deg out and it was putting out 38 deg air idling in the shop. The unit mounted using existing holes in the dash. Running the lines was a little problematic. They came out right at the curve of the floor hump and right on the floor. I had the motor out when I put the unit in and that helped a bunch. I tried rotating the evaporator coil which put the line fittings way over on the passenger side. That gave more room for the fittings but put them right over the cab tower mount. If I had to do it again I would have looked into that arrangement more deeply and possibly I could have ran the lines out through the front access panel of the cab tower. Also I fabbed my own a/c compressor mount to put the compressor on the passenger side of the motor under the alternator. Also I added the wood grain to give it a more period look and to break up all the black. It's basically a standard under dash unit with a large air distributor attached to the front.
