I've placed an order for a dry sump oil tank specific to a 427 Cobra... figured I would take a chance and see if I could get a tank out of them before that ship sinks for good.

I can confirm Aviaid has been 100% miserable to deal with and they keep sending me BS information about "ships tomorrow". They are turning into the typical automotive aftermarket ponzi scheme where they keep selling stuff and never delivering. The customer service sucks and "they have 1 in stock" but for whatever reason it would be impossible to put it in a box and get it sent out.

Probably time to contact my credit card company and dispute the charge. Brent is right, avoid them like the plague and have an attorney on retainer if you need to deal with them!

This site must be the most civilized and knowledgeable group of car people on the internet, I do appreciate the experience and thoughtful responses from the experts here.

Here is some general information for future people who might be searching this out. I've searched out quite a bit of this and figured I would compile some notes here.

Calculating Fuel "Mass Flow Rate" Requirements for Engine

Step 1: Assume a Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) Value

This is based on your engine's fuel efficiency, it is the amount of fuel the engine will consume to make 1 HP. Unless you have specific test data, it will be necessary to make an assumption here based on an approximate range typically between 0.5 and 0.6 pounds of fuel per horsepower-hour [ lb / (hp*hr) ].

Step 2: Calculate Mass Flow Rate for Fuel at Peak Horsepower based on BSFC

Mass Flow Rate of Fuel = Peak Horsepower * BSFC

For a general example, assume 700 HP peak and BSFC = 0.6. The mass flow rate of fuel would be equal to 700*0.6=420 lbs/hr.

Step 3: Convert Mass Flow Rate (lbs/hr) into Volume (Gallons/Hour) Based on the Density of Fuel

Assume a ballpark density for gasoline of 6.07 pounds per gallon.

GPH = Fuel Mass Flow Rate / Fuel Density

GPH = 420 / 6.07 = 69.2 GPH

Step 4: Add a Factor of Safety to the GPH

The factory of safety is based on personal preference, but you would ideally want a pump with some extra head room. For example, in the case of a system plumbed with a return line you would ideally want the pump to supply enough flow rate to the engine at peak power while also keeping the return line full.

Let's assume a factory of safety equal to 1.2 here.

GPH = GPH * 1.2 = 69.2 * 1.2 = 83 GPH

With this information you can start shopping for pumps.

Step 5: Not All Pumps are Created Equal

This is where things get confusing and the information at various websites is conflicting or incomplete. The most important aspects here are the pump's ability to handle "dry lift", the "pump pressure and volume curve", and "current draw".

Pump Curves

Each pump will have its own curve dictating what volume it can supply at a given pressure. This is a lot like an engine dyno run, any given fuel pump will only be able to supply a certain amount of flow volume at a given pressure rating. Typically a Holley carburetor wants 7 psi at idle and at least 4 psi at wide open throttle. The pump makers will let the marketing department fudge this all up, and advertise the highest flow rate even if it is nonsensical in practice. If possible, try to track down the actual pump curve or select something with lots of extra margin based on the numbers they provide. Don't just assume a pump rated for XYZ gallons per hour will run your XYZ gallons per hour engine at the desired fuel pressure. Trust by verify as Regan said.

Dry Lift Suction

Dry lift is also important, because the pump might need to handle a little dry suction in order to get the fluid flowing from the tank. This is where all the internet bench racers keep repeating the phrase, "mount the pump close to the tank and near the bottom of the fluid level". It is generally good advice, but it isn't the final answer. When building a car, you know there is a constant battle to package everything and never enough room where you want to mount stuff. Some pumps suck, they don't mind pulling fuel up a vertical lift. You might have a case where the pump is near the bottom of the tank, but it has to suck the fuel over a bump to establish a siphon effect before it will start flowing. For a particular application, you might need to mount the pump above the tank a bit. Lots of pumps can handle a decent dry lift height if you're shopping for that. Lots of pumps might advertise themselves as "self priming" to let the end user know they can handle a dry start by providing some suction to get things going.

Current Draw

Current draw is also an important parameter, the Ford 1G alternator used on FE engines isn't very impressive. Lots of people will convert over to a 3G alternator or use a high output 1-wire "1G" alternator to make more juice. All these current draw sources add up. You might not notice it right away, because the battery is acting like a giant electrical buffer. The battery is masking the low output from the alternator by covering for the deficit. Lots of guys put their weekend car on a battery tender in-between drives. If you do a bunch of short around town trips, and keep the battery topped off with a 110v wall plug in device, then a corner case might arise on a longer road trip because the battery buffer runs dry and the alternator isn't keeping up over the long run. Keep an eye on the total electrical demands.

Check Valves and Pull Through

Various pumps will also include check valves and shut off mechanisms. The check valves prevent back flow of fuel from the pump to the tank when the pump is off. This is useful for keeping the pump primed with fuel. It can also help with dry lift abilities, so the pump isn't working against gravity if it is providing suction in a "pulsing" mode. Another pump feature is a shut off valve, some pumps are equipped with the ability to shut off all fuel flow through them when the pump is not running. In this case, you can't "pull through" the pump with another pump. Imagine an electrical pump feeding mechanical pump. If you want to prime the fuel system with the electrical pump, then shut it off and run the car from the mechanical pump, you'll need to select an electric pump with the ability to pull fuel through it while it is de-energized.

Parallel and Series Pumping

Pumps can be staged in parallel to provide more mass flow rate, or in series to accomplish a pressure boost. It really depends on the specific application and pump, but these types of layout are all possible. Perhaps you have one pump feeding a swirl pot from the main tank, and a second pump pulling fuel from the swirl pot to the engine. Maybe you need two smaller electrical pumps in parallel to provide the mass flow rate needed to supply the engine.

Electric Pump Controllers

You can use a simple toggle switch or a logic device to power the pump. In more extreme cases, you might have a pump run by PWM (pulse width modulation) which sends 12V power in pulses to the pump in order to control its flow rate. A simple pump controller is sold by Revolution Electronics under the 12003 part number. It is on Amazon and eBay. This controller will turn the electric pump on for 3 seconds to prime the system with key on. It also has an input from the tach to shut the pump down if the engine turns off. The controller can trigger a relay for high current pumps, or directly control a lower current pump. In some cases, folks use an oil pressure switch to shut the electric pump off if the engine cuts out. This is a useful safety measure, you don't want the pump running full tilt in an emergency situation.

Electric Pump Mechanical Design

From what I have found, there are three common types of mechanical designs used with electric powered pumps. These are

1. Rotary Vane
2. Gerotor
3. Solenoid Powered Plunger Pumps

Each of these pumps has different characteristics which might make it more desirable for one application or another.

Traditional Mechanical Pumps

These generally run out of pumping capacity for high HP engines. Things start to get suspect for mechanical pumps when you're making over 450HP or so. Over time there have been a number of high performance mechanical pumps which have come and gone. The FE engine has a hard time accommodating a big mechanical pump without some grinding, which is no fun on your fancy high dollar new pump. RobbMc seems to be the best source of high HP mechanical pumps these days, but expect to do some grinding.

Other Pumps

If you're running methanol or E85 with a high HP engine, the mass flow rate might require a belt driven pump. These are a bit more exotic and expensive, something like two spur gears running off a belt to pump large volumes.

They call it the attention economy for a reason... a system where human attention is considered a scarce and valuable resource, and businesses compete to capture and hold people's attention. This is particularly relevant in the digital age, where information is abundant and easily accessible, but our ability to focus on it is limited. Companies use various strategies, especially in marketing and advertising, to attract and maintain user attention, often with the goal of driving engagement and ultimately, profitability.

Uncle Tony is good entertainment but I'm never satisfied with his tech info, and some of it is just wonky or wrong... but dude is killing it with the views and likely making a good living off it. Hard to knock the hustle when he is rocking almost 500K subscribers. The all mighty dollar seems to supersede accurate and factual information in most cases.

The one Aviaid FE oil pan sample I have, holes at the front/rear "corners" don't fit well. I ended up chasing all the holes with a unibit to oversize them slightly. From the lengthwise linear welds, the whole things is slightly banana shaped with it being low in the middle and high at the ends. Typical aftermarket car stuff, it costs too much, takes too long, then you have to rework it at arrival to get everything to play nice together.