As mentioned, every "105" 360/390 block that I have seen has the extra main webbing. The cracked block, assuming the outer water jacket is the only cracked area, is routinely repaired with the Lock N Stitch, pretty common stuff at machine shops. That said, if it was a 427 or 428 block, it may be worth the expense, but for a 390 block, personally I would look for another block. I understand that FEs are rather scarce in Europe, so that could be a factor.  It may be a coincidence, but the few times that I have had a FE block that put oil into the cooling system via the passage inside the bolt, has been on a 105 block.

Yeah, I've seen this method. Am not really a fan. In case the laser welding turns out to be too expensive, I might consider it.

Looking for another block is really not that easy over here. We have a fraction of the amount of cars/trucks over here that you guys have. And what is here, usually was an enthusiasts vehicle from the day it touched European soil, means they're better taken care of, not lightly discarded. Virtually zero examples can be found in the few wrecking yards we have left over here.
I looked for a substitude block for 3 months and found only 3 offers:
1x 600 miles away in Berlin for 1600€ (1500$), alledgedly standard bore diameter, pictures showed that it was dragged over a concrete floor on all its sides and on the main bolts
1x same distance, only 600€, but already 4,10" bore diameter, I would have had to buy new pistons/rings
1x the one I bought. Cost me 1100€ and is cracked. Probably would have been cheaper if I had spotted the crack on the spot.

I'm willing to pay up to 500€ for the laser welding. If it is more, I'll probably take the bullet and keep looking for another block. Or consider the stitching method (which my machine shop guy also recommended)

Did you ever go back and recheck your old block?

No, it is still at the machine shop, a 4h drive away from home.
The machine shop guy mailed me his sonic tester when I went checking out the "new" block. I mailed it back to him. When I go bring him the "new" block, I will pick up my old block and will repeat the sonic messurement together with him.

Anyway, I trust him. He is a pretty competend dude and he has built his fair share of American V8 engines (it's all he does, US American V8 engines)

Also, I have foumd a rather large "X" casting mark driver side, close to the transmission flange.
In the lifter vallye D3TE ist cast in and beneath the oil filter flange A426
So a 73 casting design, cast on the 26th of April 1974.

The main bearing supports have an additional rib, compared to my other FE block.

Can you guys tell me what this X and the extra ribs are about?

have you looked on ebay uk? there's often fe's for sale, there's a 390 in bits now for under £1000. oh, and a 360 block is the same as a 390 block just with a 352 crank'.
neil.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fsrp=1&rt=nc&_from=R40&_nkw=ford+fe+v8&_sacat=6030&LH_ItemCondition=7000%7C3000

Thanks a lot for that tip. I did not. Will do now :-)
That engine you mentioned is already 40 thousands over. I need a standard bore 360/390, that I can have bored to match my brandnew pistons/rings.

     if you want to do a good build the press in plugs all need removal also cam bearings---- a good media blast cleaning is a -must- properly done the block will look better and be as clean or cleaner than from the foundry scrape/pressure wash is not good enough---others good with camera/computer skills should be able to show a good clean block -esp. inside water jacket  john-old iron

Of course everything is removed. Those pictures where taken over a year ago, during disassembly.

Meanwhile, block is clean and no other part is attached to the naked block anymore.
Perfection is the goal. :-)

Long shot  but you dont have any close ups on deck surfacrs. Really inconsistany for what im thinking.

Sorry, I don't understand what you're aiming at. Could you elaborate for me?
You wanna see pics of the deck surfaces?
Or are you referring to closed (by rust) water passages on the deck surfaces?

Attached pics show the block right after I took the heads off

I hope he didn't try to measure the cylinder walls with all that schmoo in the cooling jackets.  That would certainly lead to the very erratic readings shown.  Have them hot tank and clean the block first, then remeasure.  Use a piece of pipe with a known wall thickness, say 100 mm OD with a 3 mm wall to check the calibration on the sonic tester.

No, like a wrote a post above yours, he calibrated his device on an old sleeve.

The pictures you see above were taken by me 1 minute after I removed the freeze plugs.
Since then, I scratched and "chiseled" out all lose rust, durt and grime I could reach, blew it out with compressed air and washed the whole thing intensively with a pressure washer, holding it in the cooling jackets for minutes. The block is now, that he has it in his shop, as clean as it gets.

Are there any American car clubs around there?  I had similar, reverse problems in the 90s working and restoring my '71 Westphalia camper bus.  The local VW club was helpful pointing me towards mechanics and sometimes "unofficial" junkyards of people that had a lot of parts.  This was before the Internet, though, so it might be less useful now, with everyone online.

Another technique is to look for ads of people selling rusted, wrecked cars or trucks, especially less desirable models.  They may be priced cheap enough that if they have a decent engine you can use, you can just throw the rest of the car away.

Pat

Yes, there is a healthy US-car scene here in Germany/Europe. But since I consider you guys here, especially with people of the like of Jay or Brent being active in this forum, a lot more knowledgable and experienced with your own stuff, I rather asked here first for opinions and advice.
I have contacts in Germany who are already on the lookout for a new old block for me over here, but it may take a while until something pops up.

Buyinf an entire car/truck just for the engine is not an option: Space issue and even cars to be parted out are more expensive over here. And: if the engine is still complete and mounted inside a vehicle, it is next to impossible to measure the block precisely to avoid buying another boat anchor.