338 Raptor, do you pull from the drain and run through some kind of screen or filter?  Could it pump into the port on top of the oil filter housing which I think is only 3/8”?  And could it have a valve that would let you pump the oil out for oil changes?

Is there a trick to doing that correctly?  My engine is on the stand and I need to turn the engine slightly to get the distributor to seat properly. In the car, I’ve heard you may need to bump the starter. How can you make sure the distributor goes back to the same location it came out at?

It worked. The rockers stiffened up after priming the pump.   But then loosened up after sitting a bit. I saw oil at all 16 valve tips so was happy about that. Didn’t see oil at any of the pushrods but maybe that’s normal. Think I’m just going to button it up. Just need to make some mods to the valve cover baffles.

I am building my 390 and have finally gotten my intake installed with thick gaskets.  It went well and I’ve moved on to rocker installation.  I have Edelbrock heads/intake, hydraulic rollers, adjustable bushed rocker system with end stands from Precision Oil Pump, ball/ball style pushrods, oiling through the heads with restrictors.

I have it all shimmed, installed, torqued.  Engine rotates fine with no rubbing or strange noises. For rocker adjustment, I went one at a time through the firing order, making sure the lifters were on the cam base circle (using EVO and IVC to adjust the opposite rocker).  I adjusted until it seemed like there was no “slop”, then went one full turn, then tightened the nut.  The force needed to make that final full turn was not consistent, some were easier than others.  None of them needed much force, it’s just some turned pretty easy.

When I was finished, the adjusters all ended up pretty much exactly where I predicted they would be based on my initial pushrod length measurement (measure length with checking tool and add 0.050”).  I thought this was a good sign, but I noticed something that seemed strange to me.  If I grab one of the rockers that is in a neutral position (lifter on cam base circle) and manually try to rotate it, it moves slightly.  As if the pushrod is compressing the lifter just a bit.

The last time I spun the oil pump was a week or two ago.  I turned slowly by hand just to check the oiling at the valves.  So maybe the lifters aren’t “pumped up”?  Would this explain why I can manually move those rockers?  Is this just normal?  Should I recheck this after spinning the pump with the drill?  Should I readjust the rockers using a different method?

As I continue to get my intake manifold in place, I am searching for thick gaskets.  I have Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and intake.  From what I’m reading, this would be similar intake port size to 427 medium riser.  I need a gasket that is 0.090” to 0.100” thick. I thought I found the right one, a Cometic C5137-094.  The openings are 1.408” x 2.345”.  That is larger than the 1.4” x 2.1” Edelbrock 7224 gaskets I have already which fit port-wise.  The Cometic site says it fits all except 427 SOHC.  But if all the extra port height is to the bottom like what I see in pictures of low risers, then it might “fall off” the bottom of the intake manifold.

Any ideas?

Thanks for all the tips. I have some things to test out over the weekend.

Here is a pic of the intake without any gaskets.  I haven't purchased thick gaskets yet but I do have standard 0.060" ones that I've been testing the fit with.  You can see the offset at the VC is greater on the passenger side.  I've taken measurements for port alignment and the intake ports are approximately 0.100" closer to the VC on the passenger side of the intake compared to the driver's side.  So the ports are aligned better when the VC alignment is "off" left to right as shown in the pic.  But there is a pretty big step at the VC so I think a 0.094" gasket would be better than the standard 0.060" one.  I will still need silicone at the interface, but not sure how much can be made up for this way.

On the other pic, you can see the intake mounting hole at the thermostat.  If this were "elongated" too far to the bottom or right side, it would break through to the water passage.  Maybe some amount would be OK though.