Thank you for each of the comments.  I feel better prepared now and the dyno shop does seem very knowledgeable.  I wanted to make sure this thing works properly before dropping it in the chassis and mounting the body.  I did think about "more engine than suspension" as I was choosing everything.  It won't be as fun if I can't control it.  So I used a lower compression ratio and will sacrifice some power for the ability to use 87 octane.  So I am curious to see how it all works out.  I'll post results when it's done.

I'm getting ready to have my 390 dyno tested before putting into my Factory Five Cobra.  I'm looking for any advice on RPM like low to high RPM for testing and what a safe redline would be.  I won't be racing this, just something fun to drive.

It's a 390 bored 0.030" over with stock crank and rods.  It has a hydraulic roller cam and Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and heads.  The heads came complete with whatever springs they use for hydraulic rollers.  I have roller rockers with end stands from Precision Oil Pumps and I put restrictors in the heads.  I have a Holley Sniper sitting on a 1/4" spacer and I'm using a K&N E-1960 air filter element.  This is the Ford long oval type that is 1.81" tall.  It may be a little restrictive but better than the paper element.  I won't have a lot of hood clearance.

I think the Sniper has a rev limiter function and just wondering what to set that to.  And what to expect for the test to get good results but not push it too far.

The side pipes look like the pic.  The headers are separate all the way to the flange, then remain separate until they go into the muffler section.  There is 1-2 inches where a sensor port could fit on the side pipes, but that is on the outside of the car and either pointed down and in or up and into the footbox area.  So my thought was to modify the headers 4 into 1 and back into 4.  But only do that on one side.

Thanks for all the pics. That Mac’s tilter thing looks nice. Wish it was cheaper.

The pictures do help.  Thank you Doug.

I think I read enough on the forum to convince myself that a carb plate can be used to safely lift a fully dressed FE with manual transmission and aluminum intake, even at a near 45 degree angle.  But what's the best way to attach this style of tilter to the the lift plate?  Or is this only useful for attaching to front left and right rear head locations (3/8" taps into the ends of the heads)?  And if so, is that a decent way to do it?

338 Raptor, do you pull from the drain and run through some kind of screen or filter?  Could it pump into the port on top of the oil filter housing which I think is only 3/8”?  And could it have a valve that would let you pump the oil out for oil changes?

Is there a trick to doing that correctly?  My engine is on the stand and I need to turn the engine slightly to get the distributor to seat properly. In the car, I’ve heard you may need to bump the starter. How can you make sure the distributor goes back to the same location it came out at?