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Messages - Boiler Ben

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker adjustment
« on: July 04, 2025, 04:35:05 PM »
It worked. The rockers stiffened up after priming the pump.   But then loosened up after sitting a bit. I saw oil at all 16 valve tips so was happy about that. Didn’t see oil at any of the pushrods but maybe that’s normal. Think I’m just going to button it up. Just need to make some mods to the valve cover baffles.

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker adjustment
« on: June 30, 2025, 02:41:46 PM »
Thanks Brent. I’m going to give it a try.

3
FE Technical Forum / Rocker adjustment
« on: June 30, 2025, 08:19:14 AM »
I am building my 390 and have finally gotten my intake installed with thick gaskets.  It went well and I’ve moved on to rocker installation.  I have Edelbrock heads/intake, hydraulic rollers, adjustable bushed rocker system with end stands from Precision Oil Pump, ball/ball style pushrods, oiling through the heads with restrictors.

I have it all shimmed, installed, torqued.  Engine rotates fine with no rubbing or strange noises. For rocker adjustment, I went one at a time through the firing order, making sure the lifters were on the cam base circle (using EVO and IVC to adjust the opposite rocker).  I adjusted until it seemed like there was no “slop”, then went one full turn, then tightened the nut.  The force needed to make that final full turn was not consistent, some were easier than others.  None of them needed much force, it’s just some turned pretty easy.

When I was finished, the adjusters all ended up pretty much exactly where I predicted they would be based on my initial pushrod length measurement (measure length with checking tool and add 0.050”).  I thought this was a good sign, but I noticed something that seemed strange to me.  If I grab one of the rockers that is in a neutral position (lifter on cam base circle) and manually try to rotate it, it moves slightly.  As if the pushrod is compressing the lifter just a bit.

The last time I spun the oil pump was a week or two ago.  I turned slowly by hand just to check the oiling at the valves.  So maybe the lifters aren’t “pumped up”?  Would this explain why I can manually move those rockers?  Is this just normal?  Should I recheck this after spinning the pump with the drill?  Should I readjust the rockers using a different method?

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake manifold gasket
« on: May 19, 2025, 01:28:21 PM »
My head gaskets are Edelbrock 7337 with 0.038” compressed thickness.  It is strange and I don’t know what the original assembler did to the block.  I won’t breathe easy until the engine runs, makes power, and doesn’t leak anywhere. Meanwhile, the Factory Five Cobra kit showed up so I have my hands full with that too.

5
FE Technical Forum / Intake manifold gasket
« on: May 19, 2025, 10:52:56 AM »
As I continue to get my intake manifold in place, I am searching for thick gaskets.  I have Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and intake.  From what I’m reading, this would be similar intake port size to 427 medium riser.  I need a gasket that is 0.090” to 0.100” thick. I thought I found the right one, a Cometic C5137-094.  The openings are 1.408” x 2.345”.  That is larger than the 1.4” x 2.1” Edelbrock 7224 gaskets I have already which fit port-wise.  The Cometic site says it fits all except 427 SOHC.  But if all the extra port height is to the bottom like what I see in pictures of low risers, then it might “fall off” the bottom of the intake manifold.

Any ideas?

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake manifold fit - part 2
« on: May 17, 2025, 07:49:49 AM »
I fit everything up again with the standard 0.060” gaskets.  I was able to get the distributor seated and positioned the manifold as best I could and put in a couple bolts to hold it in place.  Using a feeler, I checked the gasket surface everywhere and it is seated pretty well.  The VC interface is off but it is more or less consistent on all 4 corners.  A thick gasket should work well.

But the mounting bolt clearance holes on the manifold are already marginal is some places.  A thicker gasket will make some better and some worse.  I don’t see how I can avoid elongating a few of them.

Is there anything else I should consider before attempting this?

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake manifold fit - part 2
« on: May 15, 2025, 09:14:50 AM »
Thanks for all the tips. I have some things to test out over the weekend.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake manifold fit - part 2
« on: May 13, 2025, 10:04:58 AM »
I honestly don’t know if it was decked since I purchased a partially assembled short block.  Lessons have been learned but trying to push ahead with what I have.

Rather than buying another set of gaskets, could I put two on one side and shim the other side to make these checks?

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake manifold fit - part 2
« on: May 13, 2025, 08:32:09 AM »
Here is a pic of the intake without any gaskets.  I haven't purchased thick gaskets yet but I do have standard 0.060" ones that I've been testing the fit with.  You can see the offset at the VC is greater on the passenger side.  I've taken measurements for port alignment and the intake ports are approximately 0.100" closer to the VC on the passenger side of the intake compared to the driver's side.  So the ports are aligned better when the VC alignment is "off" left to right as shown in the pic.  But there is a pretty big step at the VC so I think a 0.094" gasket would be better than the standard 0.060" one.  I will still need silicone at the interface, but not sure how much can be made up for this way.

On the other pic, you can see the intake mounting hole at the thermostat.  If this were "elongated" too far to the bottom or right side, it would break through to the water passage.  Maybe some amount would be OK though.

10
FE Technical Forum / Intake manifold fit - part 2
« on: May 12, 2025, 05:07:30 PM »
I’m having issues with my Edelbrock intake sitting a little low. I posted about this a while ago and since then I’ve discussed with Edelbrock. They asked me to send it back to them. Unfortunately the new one they sent looks about the same. I’m testing the fit with standard gaskets and trying to determine what size of thick gaskets I should get.  I have a couple questions.

1.  It’s hard to stop the slow oil drip from the corners of the heads. The gaskets have gotten a little oily on the ends as a result. I don’t mind since I won’t be using these gaskets anyway. But I’ll need to test fit again with new gaskets. How important is it to make sure they don’t get oily?

2.  The intake bolt clearance holes will likely have a problem once the thick gaskets are in place. I’m thinking I’ll need to take to my machine shop.  Any issues with making these holes oblong shape in the necessary direction?

3.  One of the clearance holes needing attention is at the front and near the water passage. Any advice on doing this hole?  I can’t tell how much material is there. 

4.  What is the trick to getting the distributor to seat?  I’ve only been able to get it one time, by luck. I try easing it in and rotating slightly.  The oil pump shaft seems to tip in different directions and I can’t seem to get it to seat.

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: pre-oiling questions
« on: April 30, 2025, 10:05:27 AM »
Just an update on this.  I fixed the low oil flow on the drivers side by turning down the head stud by 0.020".  The ARP studs with Edelbrock heads don't have a ton of clearance and this helped a bunch.  The other side was fine.  It also lowered the oil pressure I was seeing from 95 down closer to 85.

Just one last issue with one rocker and the valve tip not getting oil.  These are bushed roller rockers that I had to hone to fit.  Apparently I didn't clean them well enough after honing and one of them has debris blocking flow to the roller.  I feel like all of them should be re-cleaned just in case.  Any suggestion for how to clean the rockers?

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: pre-oiling questions
« on: March 28, 2025, 04:17:58 PM »
I removed the rockers, left the restrictors in place, and spun the pump manually. It seems a decent amount comes out both sides but the passenger side is more. I switched rocker shafts left to right (#8 is now in #1 spot) and spun pump manually again. There was more oil on the passenger side again. But the one labeled #8 was getting less than the others.

I’m wondering if 2 things are going on. Maybe something restricting the #8 rockers AND the head stud on the drivers side causing less flow on that side. I always need to stop before making a huge mess so it’s possible if I pumped long enough they would all get oil.

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: pre-oiling questions
« on: March 25, 2025, 02:51:10 PM »
Thank you for all of the advice. I have some things to try and I’ll let you guys know what I find.

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: pre-oiling questions
« on: March 22, 2025, 10:57:05 AM »
Ok, I installed restrictors and replaced my straight SAE 30 oil with VR1 10W-30.  The oil pressure is the same 95 psi I had before so maybe those two changes cancelled each other out from a pressure perspective.  I verified oil in each lifter and each rocker was at least wet on both the pushrod and valve tip sides.  But there was significantly more flow on the passenger side. And on the last three rockers (7 & 8), there was very little flow.  The valve tips were wet but the spring retainers were dry instead of like the others where oil flowed down the springs.

Should I rotate the engine?  Should I inspect those dryer rockers?

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: pre-oiling questions
« on: March 11, 2025, 08:58:35 AM »
10-4. I mean 10-30.

Anything additional for switching the oil?  I’ll get out as much as I can. Can I drain the filter and reuse that?

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