Another thing that points me towards believing the valve springs were original is the motor would get valve float pretty badly around 4,000 RPM. I am not a hot rodder and rarely shift over 3,000 anyways so I never noticed in day to day driving but I assumed it was due to the aggressive cam with the stock springs and a stock cam would solve that issue. But now that I am this invested time and money wise I figure I may as well go all the way and get a set of springs to match whatever cam I go with.

The previous owner didn't make the best decisions when modifying this truck. To put it in prospective he removed all the original chrome trim from the truck, threw it away, and bead welded all the trim holes and left it as it because it "looked cooler". So I wouldn't be shocked if he put a massive cam with stock valve springs. I also did not build this motor myself though so I cannot say 100% one way or another. Regardless I am in the market for springs that pair with which ever camshaft I end up picking.

The springs are the same valve springs the motor was born with. Never been changed. Break in / assembly lube supplied by the cam manufacturer was coated over every lobe and lifter. Fresh oil change with manufacturer supplied zddp additive. Engine fired immediately and held at 2500 for about 15-20 minutes. Was then told to drive it as varying speed / RPM for the next 500 miles and then change oil again. Break in went smooth everything was running great initially. Morning of the failure it did seem to be running ever so slightly rough but not bad enough to cause concern. 8 mile drive to work all seemed well. 8 miles home and halfway the engine started a slight knock / tap sound. Drove it easy rest of the way and the knock progressively got louder and eventually the engine was misfiring. Opened everything back up and very obvious damage occurred between the cam and every lifter. 1 of them being extreme damage and 3 of them being significant damage rest showing some heavy wear. When I pulled it all back apart I calculated the cam had roughly 40-45 actual driving miles on it. Manufacturer initially said my cam "serial number" was part of a known bad batch. Then when it came to getting my money back the story changed and they believe I didn't use proper break in lube / oil despite my receipt showing I paid extra for their recommended lube / additive. 14 days later and I still do not have any sort of refund. Trying not to say any names and start any sort of debates but arguably one of, in not the largest cam manufacturer out there. I then did some research and found this to be a not so uncommon occurrence with this company in the last few years or so. I followed their instructions word for word.