Dennis at DSC is who I supplied my rods. I assumed they were Eagle rods. They came with the more expensive ARP bolts. I also had them magged and checked for size. They required no resizing and balanced without issue.

They are rated to 700+  350.00 is a good price for new rods.  I am running a set in my 427. I have seen far too many stock rod failures of the past few years. Even Le Mans rods.  Just not worth the risk. 50+ years of being beat on isn't worth the risk.

He is an engineer.  Rewelds them and machines them to specification. He knows them inside out. I tried another rebuilder and wound up having to take it back out of an FE mustang with headers. Not a fun job.

Rode's Restoration
1406 Lohr Rd, Galion, OH 44833
(419) 468-5182

I have  a four speed big block car mustang. I had one cable fail from the right hand clip on the footboard coming out and melting the housing on the header.
I have had two of the Daniel Carpenter reproductions birdcage which breaks the driven gear when it fails.  There is nothing about lubricating the cable before installation. This time I ordered the AT4 cable lube and used a syringe to force thee tubes of lubricant in the housing and I reinstalled the cable twisting it as I put it back on the housing. Am I missing anything here that anyone can think of?

I can do that. Thank you.

Is that a fuel pressure regulator on the end of your fuel log?

Miles, location, cam,  what heads? What is the current bore?

>Cooling in these Mustang has always been a challenge with high horsepower engines.

True that.  You can fit a 19" tall aftermarket unit in a 69/70 but the width is a challenge.  The 31" wide unit I have drops in my Falcon easy and clears the side rails.  Just trimmed the core support a bit to match the core width.  Not so much room  in a Mustang.  The 70 had a 26" wide unit, IIRC.  That and a couple of cheap eBay 12" fans on a formed shroud with a Flowkooler pump and the bitty Moroso drive motor was good enough at the drag strip.  The car would stage at 180 and come back from an 1/8 mile pass at 200~210 then cool down in just a couple of minutes.

As for the core, there are no 26" cores in 67-70 FE or AC cars. The original 67 core is actually 23" and the 68-on is a 24" core. No one is reproducing the 67 core so it forces a change to the 68 radiator and a change in bottom mounts.  I agree with you, managing heat in many hot climates is difficult.


Not everyone is drag racing or is going to cut up a car for cooling.  Especially original FE cars or Shelbys.  The cars didn't overheat new. So there has to be a formula here to resolve the issue.