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Messages - 1964Fastback

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1
Others with actual tunnel wedge experience will hopefully chime in but I think getting a choke working would be the simplest and best solution.  I haven't used the Holley kit so I'm not sure why it won't open fully.  On my 3x2 setup, I used the cheap Dorman "Help" manual choke kit and it works fine for me.  My only "trick" if you want to call it that, for achieving full choke open was to adjust the cable so that the knob under the dash is not fully seated against the bracket when pushed all the way in (open position).  There's maybe 1/16" of gap there.  I was afraid if I adjusted it so that the knob was all the way in when the choke was open, it might end up leaving the choke a little closed.

Pat

2
The strong vacuum in the crankcase is odd but I don't know I'd focus on that first.  If the engine and truck is unknown, I'd start with clean fuel and filters as well as rebuilding/cleaning the carb after sitting for 15 years if that hasn't been done already.  Then pull the plugs to inspect for oil fouling, wet from gas, gap, etc. and while out, do a compression check for a baseline, and hook a vacuum gauge to and see what that tells you.  Sorry if these were the general things you'd already mentioned were done.

You mention the vacuum lines.  Does it still have what I assume is a complicated spaghetti from the stock 1986 setup?  I'd definitely be taking a lot of pictures and notes before touching that.

Pat

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: dipstick
« on: March 26, 2025, 08:47:46 AM »
One more question...Does the oil level in relation to the block remain the same from stock to added volume deep sump? Never thought about it before but never had so many variables.

I had that question, too, but didn't want to derail your thread.  I was wondering if the oil level should always be x" below the block skirt?  If so and you had an unknown pan and it was not installed yet, I thought you could fill up the pan with water to that level counting the quarts, then dump the water, install the pan, pour in that much oil in the engine and mark the dipstick.  Obviously a lot more work than you'd want to do in your current case.

Pat

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Why is my idle changing???
« on: March 23, 2025, 12:41:29 PM »
Make sure the choke is all the way open and fast idle screw isn't touching the fast idle cam.  I had that happen on mine.  The choke wasn't open 100% but I thought it was open enough the fast idle screw would not be in play but I was wrong.

Next thought is that the advance springs in the distributor are sometimes not pulling the mechanical advance out when you are at idle.  More timing equals faster idle.

Finally, next time it is idling "fast", go under the hood and make sure the secondary plates are all the way closed.  Primaries too for that matter.  See if you can rotate them any more shut, indicating they are hanging slightly in the bores.

Pat

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: question on intake fit
« on: February 15, 2025, 05:19:19 PM »
It doesn't look like you have the cork gaskets in place in the front and back.  Have you tried it with those installed?  On mine (factory iron heads, 3x2 intake and also the original iron 4 bbl), I had to cut the tabs off the ends of the cork gaskets or they were too long and wouldn't lay flat (Fel-pro BTW).  Then they fit pretty good.  Glued them in place with weatherstrip adhesive with a blob of RTV.

Pat

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Need Advice on Fox Body FE Project
« on: February 06, 2025, 12:00:11 PM »
Looks great so far.  I'm waiting on the prop for the front to complete the look.   ;D ;D At the speeds I anticipate you'll be running, you wouldn't even need to power it - air resistance would spin it.

Pat

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Returning to the FE world, need re-education
« on: February 05, 2025, 02:20:06 PM »
If I were spending your money I would go with a good seasoned 390 (or 428 if available and within your budget) block, do a sonic check and if good, bore as little as possible and go with a stroker kit from one of our builders.  I'd rather have the rigidity and peace of mind of thicker walls and less flex.  The few extra cubes would not be worth the risk to me.

While you are in the "reading" phase, have you checked out the dyno results page on this forum?  Lots of good "recipes" there.

Pat

8
I'm not familiar with the Packard transmission, but a friend of mine had a VW Beetle that worked similarly.  You had to shift it (I think it was a 4 speed but might have been a 3 speed) but there was no clutch pedal which made me nervous the one time I drove it.  You just accelerated in first gear, then backed off the throttle, shifted to second, then got on the throttle again.  Kind of interesting...

Pat

9
That is pretty cool.  I hope you saved a copy.  If it was me, I'd definitely have that picture up on my wall!

Pat

10
A couple of years ago I worked part time at a Chrysler/Jeep dealership as a parts driver.  But there was a lot of time when there was nothing to deliver or pick up so for those times I worked the service line as a "valet", meaning I had to pull the customer cars out back to either the main service lot or the line for the tires/battery/radiator/lube shop.  Months would go by between when I'd see a stick (but again, only working part time and then only when not doing my regular delivery work).  But when we did get one, no one seemed to have a problem with it, which kind of surprised me but in a good way.  The guys in the lube shop pulled them on the lifts without remark and so did the technicians in the regular shop.

Pat

11
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: stoned genius
« on: October 18, 2024, 11:34:27 AM »
My first thought is the dumbass in question is some rich guy's kid and people were paid to keep it quiet.  Or maybe he is a teenager (underage)?  Around here they can't print the name in that case.

Pat

12
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Northern lights
« on: October 05, 2024, 05:38:31 PM »
Wow, that's impressive!  To the rest of us that only see that maybe once or twice in our lives, it looks like you are at ground zero for some alien invasion like War of the Worlds.

Pat

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lean Idle
« on: August 02, 2024, 07:39:35 AM »
When adjusting idle, I try to have a vacuum gauge and tach hooked up, and adjust the mixture screws to try to get the highest of both.  If I'm unsure whether it's currently lean or rich, especially if the screws are not doing much, I'll lightly cup my hands over the air horn or pull a vacuum cap to introduce a leak and see what the vacuum gauge and tach tell me for the direction.

Timing plays a big part, too, especially with a large cam, with more timing making it idle better.  Try to nail down the timing first, then lock it down and don't change it any more while adjusting the idle.  Changing the timing will affect the idle but not vice versa.

Keeping a notebook of what you do, at least with my tri-power (six screws), helps me.  When I got the idle close, I shut down the engine, let it cool down so I didn't get burned and could work comfortably, then carefully screwed in each screw one at a time until it seated while counting the turns, then backed it out to the original position and wrote it down.  If there was a significant difference between the screw turns on a given carb, I'd turn one screw in and the other out, to get them close.  This is probably overkill when working on one carb and two mixture screws.  :)

Pat

14
So I went to napaonline.com and allowed Firefox to share my location, so their website could detect my nearest store which it did, about a mile or two away.  I then clicked on "add a vehicle" and put in a 1988 Ford Mustang.  Then I went to the search bar and typed in clutch.  One of the automatic entries that came up below the bar as I was typing was "clutch kit".  I clicked on that and got a number of clutch/pressure plate/throwout/pilot results, followed by A/C clutches, and other non-matching results.

Now, some of the clutch kits were out of stock, some were in stock and some could only be shipped directly to me.  All of them had a blue warning next to them that said they could not guarantee fitment without additional info.  I clicked on the blue warning on one of them, and it popped up asking me for the engine.  Two choices, the 6 or 8.  I picked the 5.0 V8.  It then popped up asking the transmission.

Sure enough, there were two 4 speed automatics listed and no manuals.  BUT at the bottom of the list were "I don't know", "Not listed", and maybe another one that I forget.  I chose "Not listed".  The popup closed and I was back at the search results page showing the clutch kits and now all of them had green check marks by them and said exact fitment guaranteed where the blue warning was before.

So I did think it was odd that a manual transmission wasn't called out as an option though.  It was like they were saying that as long as you don't have an automatic transmission, then these clutches will work.  Kind of reverse logic.  :)

Pat

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: Mercury 410 Overheating
« on: July 02, 2024, 11:39:37 AM »
Yeah, that's all I can think of is something blocked at the two faces of the intake (gasket problem?) or the thermostat area if the basics are in place (full radiator, fan and belt okay, etc).  There must be other people running these intakes that would have mentioned if the water passages were blocked.

Pat

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