alcohol left in any fuel will be a problem after 3/4 weeks  I worked at a mil. esc (equip. storage site) with around 5000 pcs. of equip. also watch what alcohol cars do at a track to run -!!!                                 what works 1. to store/sit awhile  leave only alcohol free or min. amount alcohol added gas top off with non-alcohol-marine fuel-yes a few more bucks but better than junk in carbs. 2.I live in MN.                  and can have power losses and family/friends all have some back-up power-fuel does get stored for a time often longer time --again what works for standby power all installers around here use                  2.for standby power schaeffers neutra stabilizer/treatment only recomened stablizer in my area--schaeffers is a specialty manufact. co. stuff wrks--3. also add a correct amount of ashless oil it will keep anything from sticking I use marvel mystry oil --both available at any napa store  ---- unleaded fuel (no alcohol) starts to break down in 45/60 days--50/60s leaded fuel would start/run for                 years--- leaded race fuel will store in metal almost two years sealed well--not any unleaded pump gas today --no alcohol car leaves fuel in system for a time--stabil/schaeffers 2-cycle oil at any napa remember alcohol draws water to it (think heet for us in cold weather to keep fuel from iceing up) 

         early 1969 tunnelport 427-wins daytona 500--- 429s started running by mid season--nothing sounds as good as tunnelport or hiriser at 7000+ to old ears!!! -john-oldiron

     does anyone know if muncie fe --has fuel -octaine/price- i see gate closes at nine pm -- any info of security at the reunion-- i have not been able to reach by the track phone number listed--                    any info would be good thank you-john-old iron

     if you want to do a good build the press in plugs all need removal also cam bearings---- a good media blast cleaning is a -must- properly done the block will look better and be as clean or cleaner than from the foundry scrape/pressure wash is not good enough---others good with camera/computer skills should be able to show a good clean block -esp. inside water jacket  john-old iron

                should be good bearings-coated a plus----if detail needed check each bearing half with ball mic. at 9 points near each end and near center to be sure of fit--crank for taper/radii proper        clearance--like old carpenter measure twice-cut once----(before power tools for young guys info.)--------------oldiron     

           do not overlook  1960s 0em 427/428 performance spring pressures -- most in the 260/280 open pressure range     todays ramps/pressures much higher  -- along with low use of flat lifters ---     roller lifters may be more expense up front -- but look at time/cost to repair ---   few if any lifters are produced in quality/numbers of the past------ quality- reground cam people resurface lifters  ALL THAT I HAVE USED _SAY FEW OR NO PROBLEMS with  OEM lifters resurfaced and used along with newer cam grinds-- for mild builds maybe consider regrind and resurfaced lifters for cost saving and fewer problems---- keep any solid flat/roller adjusted on tight side -- if run on loose side you WILL damage -rollers for sure --john             

    to wc while observing skirt/block movement --did ford test or have ideas to reenforce blocks--or dampen  the movement-- better balance-over bal/under bal / weight of assy.---   were any block fills
     
    used to change/dampen movement-- any further work on subject

       
     when gapp/rousch built the 427 sideoilers in greatest numbers was any added inspection for blocks for their builds/work


      john-oldiron         thanks for any comments

              hi i may be a buyer- please - a few details of the engine build and car/use intended -thanx -john-  oldiron.fe@gmail.com--e-mail-or message-507-895-6408