Thanks Jim,

I messaged you. If you do not receive it. Call 8 five 0 79 one two 336

Certainly something to consider. I think your logic is one of the reasons I like the 6R80. Any transmission shop is familiar with them and parts are on the shelf. I doubt that I'd ever need it though since these transmission are nearly bullet proof. Ford is using them in almost everything now from heavy duty trucks to Mustangs. The one thing I need to explore is the aftermarket controller. I dont know if it has a limp home mode. Something to consider. Of course i still have to find out if the thing will even fit without major surgery.

Well guys I got a small update. Originally I was trying to figure away to put a modern EODE behind my FE build to get the overdrive but was dissuaded from that path and it was suggested to use the C6 and a Gear Vendors overdrive. The kits to do the EODE are available but using the C6 was more appealing to me unfortunately as I researched the GV overdrive I found several reports of the unit causing high temps in the transmission. Today I stumbled up on the Ford 6 speed 6R80. I believe this is the solution to my transmission pick. It can handle the horsepower and isn't much bigger than the C6. I'm not sure yet but I dont think it will require modifying the tunnel. After 2011 Ford modified it to use an external ECU and that has made it a perfect match for restomodders. Parts and controllers are being made for these trans since the ECU is now external. It has a lock up converter in all 6 gears and first gear ratios as low as 4.16. RPM drop is significantly reduced with the tight ratios keeping it in the best torque and horsepower band. Not that I'm building anything close to this but there are Mustangs running in the 8's at 160 mph with this transmission. Double overdrive let's you cruise effortlessly.  So my plans are fluid but I think this will be my last trans "swap". 

I did get my weld in outer shock tower braces today from West Coast Cougars.

On a bad note my body shop of choice is having trouble keeping a painter and that cant be good!

I'll update more as things occur!

Thanks Drew,

I'm thankful for all the response I'm getting. It's really tough filtering through all the advice. I know that everyone is steering me with my best interest in mind and that is what makes it so tuff as I know everyone's experience is just that, a reality, that worked for them and worked well. No one is trying to sell me something or gain an advantage. They just want me and my project to succeed. I'm really honored that they wish to share. You've seen some of my other posts and the responses some of which led to some confrontational posts. Obviously some of the post were pro and some con but all passionate. It's very difficult to make decisions confronted with all of the quality advice I've received. It is all helpful and I'm thankful for it. From some of my other forum post questions I've almost completely ruled out an aluminum block and now will go with a BBM cast block. Originally I was only thinking of which aluminum  block I'd use. So for those of you still reading I take all advice seriously and I run it through myself and my potential builders. I think I've made a decision on the builder but I'm keeping quite on that for now.

See you at Moultrie Drew.

It being a CJ is why I'm going to extremes to document the tear down and preserve the original parts. Total Control Products maker of the power steering kits has two kits. A small block kit and a FE kit. Undoubtedly the bodywork and paint will be the most expensive part of the project with the engine right behind. Fortunately the rest of the project I can handle.

The reference to Dove was a mistake I meant to say Pond but I have not settled on anything yet and the BBM cast block may get the nod. I have a builder I'm talking with that really favors that one.

The front suspension will be a total reconfiguration using coil over shocks, the one inch drop spindle and high end shocks in addition to the power steering kit and Wilwood brakes. Shock tower bracing and engine compartment bars and bracing will stiffen the front chassis.The rear suspension will have a more conventional look but actually be very refined and extremely functional while having a stock appearance.

Everything is starting to come together to work as one fine tuned instrument.  Next week I'll be talking with a shock expert to get some advice. Still have some major decisions to make on the induction and ill be consulting with some tech experts for advice there. I think I've chosen a builder and a few more conversations should make the decision.

This is my introductory post. I'm on a couple other FE an Ford forums. I've been out of the hobby for quite some time and my skills are rusty and my tech is old. So I throw myself into the fray and seek the knowledge of those who are on top of the game. I hope to learn a lot. Please excuse my ignorance as I go through the relearning curve.

This is my standard intro. It changes as my mind and new knowledge effects it.

My name is Charles and I live in Pensacola Florida. In 1978 I traded a 1971 Volkswagen Beetle for this 1969 Mach 1 Mustang. The plan at that time was to race it in NHRA stock class. The local economy was bad and fortunately I made little effort towards racing the car other than installing a set of Hooker racing headers, purchasing a 5.14 gear with 31 spline spool and installing .540 lift Reed racing cam. I never even was able to reinstall the top end (big mistake).

The bad economy led to a move to Houston, three children and life! The Mustang was stored in Pensacola but not securely and outside. At some point while we lived in Houston someone who knew where the car was talked or they them selves stole the Hooker headers and factory chrome GT rims. That was bad enough but they uncovered the car and hood with the shaker scoop opening and unwrapped the motor that I had sealed very well in order to access the header bolts. All 16 of them. Yes I put all of them in. With the hood open and the motor unsealed there was nothing to protect the inside of the motor. We recieve around 75" of rain each year. It was several years before I discovered what happened. By that time there were plants growing in the lifter valley and the block had been full of water for years. Very disheartened I wrapped it back up but the damage was done. I fenced the back yard and life went on.

In July 1983 we returned home as broke as we left but having survived 4 more years and now with a family of two and one on the way but the economy was better and we were home. I also brought home a 70 Mach 1 351C 4 bbl Shaker Hood Mustang but that's another story. Over the mext 34 years working 50 to 60 hours a week family and life left no time to work on my car till 2017!

Two years ago I retired and it was decided that it was now or never and so it began. First with lots of thought about what we wanted, a restoration or a restomod. The car itself was a time capsule having almost all the original parts still there. That was a great thing! I'd even stored most all the parts taken off the car when working on the motor in 1978. What was bad is that over the years I was fooling myself thinking that the car would not rust. It did and badly. Worse the drip rails accumulated leaves and debris which I stupidly ignored. I really didnt think the roof would rust through there but it did both sides. When that happened the door bottoms and floor pans were next. I was really surprised that while the top of the hood looked good the bottom near the front was rusted badly as was the lower lip of the trunk deck. At this point a complete examination has not been completed but I know the body work will be a lot of the money and work. Where I had it stored was kinda in an area I didn't go that often and it was blocked in by other vehicles but at least it was on a concrete slab.

After lots of thought and considering the car's as delivered options it was decided to tastefully restomod it but to do it with bolt on removable parts so that it could be returned to original state. The car was 1 of 100 built in 69. That sounds special but it's the odd grouping of options that makes it 1 of 100. We decided we did not like the Black Jade paint and we wanted the rear Sports Slats and both spoilers. Also a non AC car in Florida, not a realistic choice. I've always wanted a rear fold down seat. What good is a 428CJ with an open rear end and F70 14 tires, really! Definitely have to upgrade the AM only radio and the guages. So it was decided a tasteful restomod will happen.

Up until 1983 I was involved in drag racing with a friends car. We raced two times a week at NHRA tracks in Houston. IIRC in 81 or 82 we were number 2 (Red light in final) in the Division 4 NHRA finals. I've worked as a mechanic in my early years so all that gives me a good foundation to work on this project.

Over the last year and a half I've moved the car to where I can start stripping it down and documenting each piece. It really was quite a job to move everything else, get the car rolling and move it even though it was only a few yards it was moved. At least now we could walk around it and officially commence working on it.

I've spent many many hours trying to find the right shop to do the body and paint work. After looking at a dozen or so places I think found one that can do the work at the level I want. That will start with a total strip down to metal. Currently I'm waiting on a slot in the shop to open up. The shop specializes in old school restorations and old and new chassis and engine mods. They have put a lot of Coyotes in early Fords and have the only chassis dyno in the area. While waiting for a slot to open I'll continue to strip and catalog parts.

Restomodding the 69 means I'm also going through my storage looking for parts. Yesterday I found the Thermactor air canister along with the short hose and special clamp. The Ford number on the hose was still mostly readable. I'll probably not put it on but I want to preserve an safely store it. I've also located several SCJ oil cooler assemblies complete from adapter to cooler except of course the cooler brackets. They may be there and I just havent found them. I do intend to add that option to my restomodded Mustang. While living in Houston I may not have been able to work on my car but I certainly went to swap meets and bought up parts.

Constantly on my mind has been what to do with the drive train. Having had a taste of power while young I definitely wanted that taste back. While the 428CJ is certainly no slouch I can do better. Much better! Starting with a new "Made in the USA" reinforced Dove Aluminum block bored to 4.25 occupied by a Scat 4.25 stroker assembly topped with massaged Aluminum heads attached to a port matched Blue Thunder 2 x 4 medium riser intake will be a good foundation. All that Aluminum will be coated in Ford Corporate Blue. I have two original 427 Holley carbs that will set atop the 2 x 4 intake and a modified air cleaner base will set on the carbs. The air cleaner modified for 2 x 4"s will allow me to keep the ram air shaker hood scoop looking and operating just like stock. The cam is still to be determined but I want the car to remain streetable with the ability to idle and drive to and in cruise ins. With the proper top end the cam becomes an accessory to it and doesn't have to work as hard to make the torque and horsepower numbers desired. That also leads to good street manners and the ability to drive longer distances without worrying if it will make it.

I'll retain the C6 although it will be highly modified to handle the additional torque and horsepower additional I'll add a Gear Vendors overdrive to it. To stroke my memories I might go with a manual cable body.

Moving to the rear it seems that everybody is going to the four link setups and I confessed when I saw there were bolt in units with minimal welding I was smitten with lust. BUT then I remembered in the 70's there were many cars running 10's and low 11's with leaf springs. What were they doing. I started an intensive internet search that led me to Charles Maier. You might remember Maier Racing doing road racing years ago. He says you can gave a great handling Mustang with three things. The right springs engineered properly with proper supportive parts, a Panhard bar and the right shocks. With those three you can turn, accelerate and decelerate safely and very quickly. No sway bar. No wheel hop and awesome launches. One of his satisfied customers has a 750 hp Mustang. This is a bolt in operation except for the Panhard top bracket but it could be easily removed if someone wanted to restore the car.

I'll upgrade to a traction lock and most likely a 3.91 gear that could have been optioned in 69. An Aluminum driveshaft will connect it all.

All this go needs woah and a bunch of it! I'm still deciding but Baer or Wilwood will get the nod. 6 piston up front and 4 piston in the back. Of concern is the lack of vacuum for the power brake booster. I'm determine to try and use the factory or factory appearing master cylinder. One way to get this to work may be to gut the booster and put an hydraulic assist unit inside it thus keeping a clean factory look under the hood. Another idea is a electric vacuum pump. It's still very much a work in progress

I'm not a fan of rubber band tires so the rims will be 16" or at the most 18" and probably Magnum 500's. I dont want to mini tub the car but there is one small area in the front of the wheel well that may need some modification. I'm not opposed to rolling the lips as was done on the Boss cars and really Ford should have done on the CJ's. Other than that I'll play with wheel spacing to maximize the rear tire width. 295 17 are possible and its said with proper wheel spacing 315 18 will fits. We'll have to see. I also have to consider the overall appearance of the finished car. I still am striving for a factory look.

That pretty much leaves only a few things. One is the front suspension. I settled on Total Control Products coil over conversion which is a bolt on kit. I researched a lot of kits a feel this is the best one for me. They also have a bolt on true power steering that replaces the under engine crossmember strengthening the front chassis. The crossmember actually sets higher not hanging down like others. A one inch drop spindle that uses a late model snout for larger bearings will also be used.

I'll need a awesome cooling system for this engine and the anticipated usage of low speed driving during cruises or parades or maybe some autocross events. In any event I'll choose one that resembles the factory appearance but is made of aluminum and has the capacity to keep things cool in the harshest of conditions. A high volume Aluminum water pump will be installed but not an electric one. I'll probably have to use an electric fan but maybe I can use it as a puller inside the fan shroud where it will be hidden instead of a pusher. While I'm in the engine compartment I recently became aware of dummy hollow batteries that appear stock shaving weight off the front end and allowing one to but the battery in the trunk like the Boss cars. I'll do that

So if your still reading this and I commend you if you are you're probably wondering what color is he painting this. Well here you go! Acapulco Blue with the Mach 1 Gold stripes. I'm thinking to put just a touch of Gold metallic into to Blue paint. IMHO that will be truly original but faithful to the Ford design and keeping in the spirit of the proud Mustang heritage!

 I will try and preserve all of the original parts. I want the car to appear stock to the casual observer and only if start looking closer will you start to see the changes.

I really want to hear everyone's comments good or bad.

Thanks for reading.

Charles AKA Darkman in Pensacola FL

Parts list of things I think I've settled on!
Engine
Dove 427 aluminum block
Dove Stage 2 heads
Blue Thunder MR 2 x 4 intake

Transmission
B&M Aluminum Trans Pan # 40281

Brakes
Front
Wilwood #140-12945. $1,154.99
12.19 in rotor black 6 piston caliper
Brake line kit #220-9195 $97.17