Ross is spot on.

If you start looking at heads remember there are 3 different exhaust bolt patterns and truck headers may only have the 8 bolt pattern.

Also if you elect to change the cam keep in mind you're only working with 8.2:1 (or is is 8.1:1) compression.

Unless your heads or any you buy need minimal work my experience is that you'll spend nearly as much reconditioning a set as new heads, and nearly the same is true a stroker rotating assembly and factory 390 parts with decent pistons unless you already have serviceable ones...

Not withstanding Brents friends (Daniel?) findings, i agree with Ross and think that basically every one of them larger than the 8916 would probably be better on like a 113-115 and the jury is out on 8916.

The 8916 might be a nice street cruiser car/truck cam but you'd have to roll it back basically the entire advance for anything with compression and stock heads.

One of them is very very close (like within a degree) of the cam in my truck and i would not describe it as medium chop but at least i know how it would act (assuming i trust the numbers), still it would be better with more split and a wider lsa to keep the overlap in check....

Anyway. The guy i was talking to said he had e-mailed Nutter twice and not gotten a reply, so i guess answering any questions isn't in the marketing plan. In their other "pro" lines they have a wider selection so I guess there maybe "cough" "turbo" cams coming...

Custom is the answer if we want what we want...

At least they didn't off shore them, and choice is good...

I was speaking generally about shelf cams seeming to tend toward "idle sound" seems to be less of a market for one that sounds close to stock. We got "rattler" and "thumper" i propose a new line "sleeper" ... 

I do understand that sentiment and path, but it's really not my preferred route, because id like it quieter and closer to original.

I also haven't welded in some time (like 40 years unless you count sweating copper pipe) though i was passable at mig welding and quite good at brazing...

To recap some discussion on TOF:

For clarification the truck currently has Hooker Comp Headers and a matching Hooker 2.25 Exhaust. I had all of this Jet Hot coated inside and out and no small expense before installing it and its a rusty mess, yes its old but has relatively few miles on it. Its has the longest 2.25 dyno Max Ultra flows on it.

I want to make it quieter and perhaps even back to the manifolds which are so awful i doubt the pipe size will make much difference.

I had forgotten about the Pypes, but i don't really think i want the X pipe sound.

I see 2 basic options LMC and Flowmaster.

LMC pre bent, bolts to manifolds, I would probably order with glass packs and put super turbos on it. (because it's double the price with their turbo mufflers.) Id probably have to add an H pipe, increasing the cobble factor.

Example - but he did some cobbling on it too.

https://youtu.be/YzlG7sGw6Vw

Flowmaster - Nice system, gonna be too loud, so figure an extra 175 ish for super turbos (there are some that are nearly the same size) but i have to make headpipes. if i go to manifolds the 2.5 will be a waste i believe, but I do like the tail pipes that tuck, and longer pipes probably - quieter all other factors being the same.

Example - It is a small block truck but you get the idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUrUwjMU_CA

Third distant possibility, just have Waldron make me a factory exhaust out of stainless... that should be quiet and take care of a bunch of HPs... LOL.

Honestly i wish there was a "foctoryish" dual exhaust... you know like Ford would have don it if they did...

Ive watched a bunch of off brand (Chevy) truck LMC installs on you tube and everyone seems happy ish, but thats the only one on a bumpside i can find.

I am really waffling back and forth on this between the LMC and manifolds or the flow master and sanderson coated shorties and i don't want to cut the frame rails. for other manifolds. Like Kugel or Cobra Jet.

It looks like the head pipes would be fairly simple but id either have to band clamp it together or buy a Multi Process welder and brush up on my decades disused welding skills. I probably need a welder anyway...

I really really like the idea of a cast manifold but it is going to leave a ton of power on the table, which i say i don't care about until i actually drive the truck... Maybe a cam with stupid 20 degree split (like the factory GT/CJ) would mitigate it to an extent.

Wish someone would fire up something like this:



https://waldronexhaust.com/product/1975-79-ford-truck-v8-360ci-dual-conversion/

Except in 2.5 mandrel bent stainless with turbo mufflers and for a bump side  (so not like that at all LOL).

Still looking for opinions, while thinking out loud.

Not exactly, but i said someone needs to get with him and straighten it out... 

scroll down here to see the cam and card. https://forum.nsra.org.uk/showthread.php?81897-plan-B-ish-58-nash-rambler-project/page28
...

that cam card doesn't match the one on summit racing dot com. IVC 71 to IVC 77 and 10 degrees more Advertised is a pretty big difference. Also your cam card indicates 1.75 vs 1.76 rocker ratio.

The discrepancies in the specs on these cams are wild.

Cool,

I was curious if you were going to get a fancy report form their supposed super duper quality checking thing ma bob they talk about in some of the "articles" about other PRO Series cams.