To those of us that vintage road race the old Mustangs this is not at all uncommon.  In my case, since I use lowering blocks (1 inch) I offset the locating holes.  At one time offset locating pins were available in the vintage road race community. You would only need a 1/8" offset.

If anyone has good used Ford toploader parts, Dan has them!

I have not used any parts bought in the last year but I build my own toploaders for my vintage road race car.  I have bought gears from most all suppliers and they all come in the same box!!!  If you can find Ford gears where the dog teeth on 2nd and 3rd aren't used up that is the way to go. The same if you have Ford synchro sliders that aren't used up. Generally 1st and 4th are in good shape.  I have been running the same toploader, in my roadrace car, for two years now with no trouble (offshore parts). However, I consider 2nd, 3rd, brass synchro rings, synchro sliders and cluster gear shaft as consumables!!

As far as a street driven toploader I abuse my road race transmission more in one weekend of racing than I have the toploaders in two Mustangs that I have owned more than 50 years! 

Certainly original Ford parts are the best way to go in my opinion. If you can find gears where the dog teeth aren't buggered too bad you can dress them with a stone and with a good slider it will shift like a new one.

Who knows how many different manufacturers supply offshore toploader parts. 

I did it that way on a 406 back in the 60's when I was a teenager!

Thought I would post this as an FYI:
Straub Technologies is collecting and sending supplies to those in distress from recent flooding.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DAq7nmNs4t7/?utm_source=ig_embed&ig_rid=3635ba5e-9eca-4ee2-8c94-440139fc2e9d

My question: how much spring pressure at the lifter/lobe interface is too much.

Same project as a previous question I asked (351 C valve size) about my Boss 302 vintage road race car. I have a solid flat tappet cam (it is an older Crane OTS 351W cam) with 5 years of racing (shift at 6000-6500 when running easy and 7500 when pushing it).  Recently checked lifter faces and all look as good as new.  In reading one of the FE threads, concerning roller lifters, the importance of proper valve spring pressures was referenced.  I got to thinking about the relationship of rocker arm ratio and the effective spring pressure at the lifter/lobe interface.  In my own case knowing the spring pressure at max valve lift multiplied by the rocker arm ratio and I get a number well in excess of 600 lbs (640 to more accurate).  Never really thought about that before and that number stunned me just a bit.

The heads I am taking off the motor have a 1.9 installed spring height.  The heads I am switching to the springs would have a 1.8 installed height if I didn't do anything change that.  That .100 inch change in spring height would change the pressure at the lifter about 60 lbs. 

My curiosity has me asking the question of "how much spring pressure at the lobe/lifter interface (considering the cam I am using) can a flat tappet cam operate at?

Thanks,
Dennis




 

I was wondering the same thing about the roller cam.  Those roller rocker arms are impressive!

This is a picture of the B302 TA combustion chamber.  This type of multiangle radiused valve seat isn't achievable on the production B302/Cleveland head, from what I am seeing, except maybe the D3 head. 

I have found some approximately 20 year old posts (other forums) that the D3 head is the head of choice if "one knows what to do with it"! 

What I am curious of is this type of radiused valve seat worth the work as compared to what can be done with the 2.19 valve heads?