Boat trailer ibrake lines in salt water disintegrate after ten years. Bulk stainless steel brake line flared with a SnapOn flaring tool rated for stainless steel. The material is tough, the pressure required to flare the tube strains my milk. The clamping force in the split vise tests the grooves cut in the jaws to keep the tube from slipping. Slow, methodical and patient technique yields desired results. No leaks. The flare nuts are stainless steel as well.

The mild steel brake lines on the Galaxie were easier but required the same attention. I have three flare tools but bought the SnapOn because the others were not up to the one and done test. I hate brake fluid almost as much as I hate antifreeze. I treat both fluids with respect. And yet I am considering buying stock in floor dry.

Good luck getting yours right.

Thanks for asking that, the picture had me questioning my visual acuity. 

All the cam bearings melted to some degree, #2 cam bearing was spun and discovered the oil gallery plug behind the distributor was missing.  Teardown was for retrieving pieces of a broken rocker arm, had no idea the cam was making a heroic effort to leave.  Glitter in the oil filter.  Probably should not have limped home after the rocker broke, but can't tell if the two events were related.  Good luck.

I had that problem, the retainer wouldn't hold the shaft in the block because it was poorly made and the shaft was stuck rather well in the end of the distributor.  So after one dropped shaft and a couple of 'Oh @#$%&!' moments and the resulting hacks to get the shaft out successfully I found a different shaft.  Milodon makes a fat shaft that will not pass through the hole in the block when pulling the distributor.  No help to you at this point in time, sorry.  But the stamped keeper is a failure point.  The fat shaft is not.  As far as magnets, I tried to move a shaft around in the rear sump pan with a number of big magnets after I had the engine out and the pan in hand.  Did not budge.  Your results may vary.

Traced the hole in the gasket over a fat spot in a used gasket, cut it out and secured with copper RTV. They are staying put. Lots of used blue gaskets, that is steel in the middle isn't it? Cast iron factory manifolds.