This guy said he has seen some flaking of the bearing material in some high load applications and I’m not sure if that was an isolated incident or an ongoing problem with a specific brand or some other issue causing the problem.   I’ve only done stock style stuff in the last 20 years and most of the newer bearings didn’t even exist way back or for the applications that I have done since

From my experience, most or all quick set epoxies don’t set up as hard and strong as the slow set ones .   And also, over time, the slow set seems to soften also. 

Sounds like radiator May be plugged ? Or something blocking the water flow?

I just had a 600 Holley go dead rich and first thought was needle and seat o rings, changed them out (they were in bad shape) and still rich.   New power valve brought it back around

In a mild street build with a pressure fed block, where is the line drawn between hydraulic roller and solid roller?   I don’t mind the noise or the inconvenience of rocker adjustments.   And then what is the opinions of roller bearing lifter or bushing roller?

A low battery will definitely cause a ford solenoid to stick in start mode.   It arcs the contacts inside and micro welds it to gather.   You can whack it with something and it’ll go back to normal,,,,,,,for a while

If the coil says it’s compatible with 12v, then they are supposed to have a resistor built into them    I have run a resistor with a coil that says 12v compatible before with no ill effects.  Spark voltage may suffer.  Condenser quality isn’t what it was a few yrs ago    I have mounted larger ones outside of the distributor before on problem applications

I, personally, would rather to have a set with better exhaust flow and give up some factory appearance as long as traditional exhaust will bolt up.   Most people don’t know exactly what the exhaust side of the head would look like and in a shock tower car the exhaust side doesn’t really stand out.  Can’t see much of that side once in the car.  And thank you for doing these.