The overflow tank has to be vented to atmosphere.  The radiator has to be able to vent    When a liquid is heated, it expands and has to go somewhere.     If the catch can vent is plugged, it will do the same as plugging the radiator overflow.   The cap can’t do its job and pressure will build until something fails.   If you have a rad cap made for a catch can then you can vent the catch can and the rad will pull the fluid back in and not collapse the hoses.  The catch can doesn’t have to be full to be effective.    Maybe 1/4 full when cold , possibly a little less.   But should not be full when at temp.   A rad cap made for a catch can is different than one made to not use a catch can.  A catch can cap has a little valve thingie in the center to let water be drawn back into the rad when it cools and pressure drop to a vacuum

On my car, with the tunnel port in it, would run temps under control with a factory big block  copper/ brass rad, shroud, mechanical fan.   If the rad got some trash, then it would have trouble.   A good fan set up should have air movement that you can feel in front of the grill while at an idle.  My first block had a rusty water jacket and if it was ever rattled, then it would shed rust and eventually plug the rad.   Next one was squeaky clean and never had an issue.  Water pump and fan speed is important.  An electric fan would never cool my small block ranger but a mechanical flex fan would

I’ve got a Milwaukee that I bought used , kinda smaller one, used it a few times and no complaints at all.    I’ve bought a vevor off of amazon to use as a sacrificial one for more abusive jobs but I haven’t used it yet.  The vevor was recommended by others on another web site as to be decent.   It was under $200.  They can be an amazing tool when space allows it to be used

What is the preferred or not preferred engine bearing now?   About to do a new build and was sent coated kings bearings and my machinist says he prefers others instead. Looking for some input.    Thanks guys

Some brake lining is too hard .   It lasts forever but won’t stop .   

There are different pinion yoke lengths.   Is it the same as before?   Put it on jackstands
And in neutral and rotate drive shaft to see if there is any runout on the tube?

Can a hydraulic roller be reliable in the 6500-7000 range.  ?    Existing combo wants to run to 6500 with a flat tappet and want to duplicate that without fear of cam failure.  I really don’t mind a solid flat tappet if it can be made reliable with today’s offerings