On my car, with the tunnel port in it, would run temps under control with a factory big block  copper/ brass rad, shroud, mechanical fan.   If the rad got some trash, then it would have trouble.   A good fan set up should have air movement that you can feel in front of the grill while at an idle.  My first block had a rusty water jacket and if it was ever rattled, then it would shed rust and eventually plug the rad.   Next one was squeaky clean and never had an issue.  Water pump and fan speed is important.  An electric fan would never cool my small block ranger but a mechanical flex fan would

I’ve got a Milwaukee that I bought used , kinda smaller one, used it a few times and no complaints at all.    I’ve bought a vevor off of amazon to use as a sacrificial one for more abusive jobs but I haven’t used it yet.  The vevor was recommended by others on another web site as to be decent.   It was under $200.  They can be an amazing tool when space allows it to be used

What is the preferred or not preferred engine bearing now?   About to do a new build and was sent coated kings bearings and my machinist says he prefers others instead. Looking for some input.    Thanks guys

Some brake lining is too hard .   It lasts forever but won’t stop .   

There are different pinion yoke lengths.   Is it the same as before?   Put it on jackstands
And in neutral and rotate drive shaft to see if there is any runout on the tube?

Can a hydraulic roller be reliable in the 6500-7000 range.  ?    Existing combo wants to run to 6500 with a flat tappet and want to duplicate that without fear of cam failure.  I really don’t mind a solid flat tappet if it can be made reliable with today’s offerings

All I can say is what you guys are doing is amazing.   

Jay, is this going to be a one run of castings and done, or is this going to be something that you are going to be offering on a somewhat regular basis as demand permits?