Much will depend on the skill of the dyno operator and the particular dyno setup, but if you are not using it for racing, don't focus on the wide open throttle pulls as much, instead focus on simulating actual driving conditions.  Part throttle transitions, cruising AFR and timing, optimizing area under the curve and not peak numbers, etc. 

Dyno time is valuable, use it to tune and dial the motor in to how it is going to be used in the field as best as you can.  Very rarely do we only drive our street cars in 3,000 to 6,000 rpm WOT bursts.  Especially lightweight fiberglass replica's that may have more engine than suspension. 

'54 car or F100? 

Lot's of Godzilla swaps into '53 to '56 Effies.  Just google image search that one.

I had a '76 F250 with a factory 4bbl 390 that burned a head gasket, so I used that as an excuse to rebuild the motor and add a few performance tweaks to it while I was at it.  My recipe is below.  This was a fairly cheap rebuild, but it turned out to be a very strong runner afterwords.  It had no trouble tugging my 10,000 lb 24' enclosed trailer down the road. 

390 + .030 bore.
Stock Ford 4 bbl Intake and Iron Heads
3 angle valve job and I smoothed the ports out - no significant material removal. 
600 CFM Holley
Howard's Dual Pattern Cam
9.5:1 compression
Hooker Long Tube Headers and 2.5" dual exhaust.

Just wondering if you have a part you want to do a one off say an fe intake could you take it to a 3d print company and have it copied, a company that does metal

What kind of price would one intake cost to get copied

The problem you run into with FE and MEL intakes is platform size.  Most 3D printing machines (especially metal) don't have a large enough platform to produce a FE intake.  I had a plastic model of my MEL intake made up first so I could check fit, flow, etc before committing to tooling up the mold.  Even plastic 3D printers (which are nearly as common as refrigerators these days), don't typically have a large enough platform to handle a Ford V8 intake.  It was actually cheaper ($1200 still) to CNC machine the MEL intake out of blocks of nylon and glue them together, then to 3D print it as one piece.  See image below of the plastic intake.

Cost is very subjective.  I am an engineer by trade, and have a Unigraphics (NX) license at home.  That alone costs me nearly $2K a year.  There are cheaper CAD programs out there, but there are significant advantages to a proper industry standard CAD program such as UG NX, Solidworks, PTC/Creo, etc. Most contract engineers will charge you $150 to $250 per hour to scan and generate FUNCTIONAL 3D models (raw casting, final machined part, and engineering drawings). I would expect 5 to 10 billable hours by time that is done. 

3D printed mold for a single intake is going to run you $1500, give or take a few hundred.  The first one is generally much more expensive as you will also have to pay for the mold design and flow modeling.  After that, it is just printer time. 

Jay pretty well layed out the foundry costs.

Then you have final machining.  Could be any where from a few hundred bucks to another $3K depending on time, fixtures needed, etc. 

Add in a few shipping charges and other misc expenses, and $10K is not unreasonable if you pay others to do all the work.

I had a couple of MEL to 6-71 blower intakes cast last year.  We used 3D printed sand molds.  I can't give you a price comparison to lost foam as I was unable to get a viable quote for that process.

I am happy with the surface finish.  See the Images of the raw casting and then machined casting below.  If someone was so enthused, it would polish up just fine. 

I made sure there was plenty of extra material (at least a 1/4" in most cases) on the surfaces that would be machined as I was not confident in the foundry's ability to hold dimensional tolerances, so I made sure there was plenty of material to clean up in case it came out of the mold a bit wonky or warped.  That did not happen, the dimensional stability was excellent, so credit to the mold designer.  The mold also flowed well, as I did not uncover any areas with porosity during machining.







Fit up on my crusty 430 core.

I used FatMat XXX throughout my '62 Monterey Wagon.  Couldn't afford DynaMat for that much square footage.

CleanDan is spot on.  Wind Noise is definitely a very large part of the equation.

On shock tower cars, bolts make it easy to pull the heads with the engine in the car should you need to do that down the road.

Or even on Pickups that have heater core boxes on one side and master cylinder and brake boosters on the other.  Studs normally make pulling the engine the default option.