Quote from: 69Cobra428 on April 11, 2020, 09:07:46 AM

Quote from: machoneman on April 10, 2020, 10:17:30 PM

It's the bore size that counts. The size of the reservoirs makes no difference.

I'm going to go back to your 1st post and say that the OEM Ford front discs aren't really all that hot for a 500hp ride. Heck, no muscle cars of the era (and I drove most all of them) had brakes worth a darn except for a few (4 wheel disc Vettes, Boss 302's, Z-28's). Point is you may still need to upgrade the fronts to bigger and better rotors/calipers even with rear discs. Try your changes now and then decide on rear discs....and then maybe better fronts. I did on my '70 Mach 1 and although it was all quite pricey, the car now stops like an SCCA racer.

Well I’ve already got the rear discs on there

Missed that. Great. One other thing, if you stick with the OEM front discs, note that most off-the-shelf pads are hard (like in way too hard) for long life. You many wanted to investigate softer pads for better street braking. Porterfield, Performance Friction, Hawk and other aftermarket brake pad makers offer a wide range of soft to hard pads.   

https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

https://pfcbrakes.com/products/brake-pads

Quote from: gdaddy01 on April 06, 2020, 08:18:18 PM

very good advice , not used to this coming from you

Oh come on, you know I have feelings for my brother man. OK, that's a lie. So sue me.

The majority of collision avoidance revolves around how NOT to use the brakes. Throttle. Steering. The acquired experience telling you what the pitch and yaw your ride is going exhibit accordingly. Relying on brakes is just going to accordion your car when it should be elsewhere at the moment of impact. People getting giggles go from conservative to full throttle in a flash, and then freeze. You all know this to be true.

If you have to pump the brakes to get a firm pedal, you might want to recalibrate what a "reputable" shop is.   They might be honorable and pretty swell folk, but not have the right technical skills for thorough brake work.

Is this a problem where the pedal goes too far to the floor but is firm when you meet resistance, or is it that the pedal is soft as you meet resistance?

If, after a brake bleed, is the pedal firm and are the brakes functioning properly?  If so, then how long driving does it take for the pedal to go soft again and brake performance to decline?  If they start firm and gradually get mushy, then the problem is most likely in the rotors pulsing the caliper pistons and inducing air.  It could also be that you don't have the residual pressure valves to keep a tiny pressure on the pistons to keep them from retracting too far into the caliper.

If the pedal just never gets firm in the bleeding process, then you should probably do a bench bleed on the master cylinder.  Getting a good bleed on the master can sometimes be difficult, so you have to take nothing for granted.  Get a small bleeding kit for the master.  You can do either a flush bleed or a block bleed.  You might have to tilt the master around to dislodge trapped air. If that doesn't firm up the pedal, I would also recommend a brake pressure gauge.  There are a variety of them out there, but I believe Speedway has them for around $40.