Jim,  i don’t have a compelling reason why i’m not using one.  Other than the engine didn’t have one when i disassembled it.  Guessing previous owner didn’t reinstall it when they overhauled it in the 1970’s.   I’ve eyeballed several NOS trays on ebay,  maybe i even bid on one at some point in the past…can’t recall… but never got my hands on one.   Is your scat crank a 4.25”.   If so good to know and i’ll definitely consider it again.

Here's the dyno sheet.    Peak hp at 5400.    I guess Kuntz had dyno parameters to start data at 4200rpm.   Looking at numbers,  torque was on the backside of curve by then (568).   No idea what the peak torque was or at what rpm.

Engine will be going into my 70 GT500.   The project migrated to a concourse restoration but I'd already committed to engine build so it's overkill for purpose.   Maybe after a few shows, I'll get to have some fun with it.

The intake is port matched to heads.

Couple things I forgot to mention:

Kuntz broke in the engine with short pulls using progressively increasing timing advance 32/36/38 degrees etc.   It liked 38.

 735 CJ carb came from Drew Pojedinec.   I increased jets a few sizes over stock anticipating dyno headers and carb

Has rebuilt stock water pump

Next it'll get concourse resto make-up and hairdo treatment incl. repaint, CJ exh manifolds w/Thermactor smog tubes, etc.   

Idea:  For this sort of resto CJ build,  it would be cool if someone offered a stamped steel, simulated windage tray that could be installed laced between with two oil pan gaskets to give the outward appearance that engine had a windage tray within. 


   

Engine is stock appearing 69 cj using original points distributor.   I’m uncertain what type coil to use while on dyno.  3 ohm vs 1.5 ohm

I have a yellow top (1.5 ohm) coil but those typically work in conjunction with resistor to prevent coil from over heating after initial start up.   

Conversely, if i use a 3 ohm coil (during dyno),  would there be enough voltage to start the engine.  My guess is yes…since on a dyno there’s no starter pulling down voltage to the coil during start up (i think).

Anyhow,  looking for suggestion on which type coil to use when dyno-ing with points distributor.

Thanks
Adrian Jacobs

One way of looking at it is:  To gain 30-40 hp out of a 390,  a guy can add 55 cubic inches OR add nice set of headers.   

**Adding pictures to the ad** 

New price:  100 plus shipping from Texas. 

Bump  **Photos added in post below.**

Barely used Ross forged flat-top pistons and pins.  Used only for dyno break in and 3 pulls. Decided to replaced these with dished pistons to lower compression.

For use in a 428 block bored .032 over (i.e. 4.162" bore) and using 4.250 stroker crank with 6.700" rods (i.e. typical 428 stroker set up).

Here's basic info:
Intended block bore:  4.162"  (428 bored .032 over)

compression height: 1.312
(My 428 block had deck height of 10.155 and this resulted in pistons .020" in the hole)

Weight of piston & pin (no rings): 588 grams

Set up for 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 ring pack

These yielded 11:1 in my 428 engine with 10.155 deck height, 4.25 crank, 6.7 rods, 72cc iron CJ heads, .040 head gasket.

400.00 plus shipping from Texas.

Happy to provide additional info or text pictures.

Thanks
Adrian