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Show and shine cruiser, the eye candy might be more valuable than the loss of power on the tunnel wedge , if your not a hard core driver the Cool Factor of the t-wedge might be worth having
It's been ported, just FYI. Probably not a problem on your C6 heads, but just something to be aware of.
There's a C7ZX on epay now $625 was the bid I saw it at ( not mine).
2x4? Have a link? Couldn't see any when I searched.
Here's a C7ZX-A on eBay, only $563 at the moment, looks like the exhaust crossover needs attention, but that wouldn't necessarily scare me if the price is right. Cosmetically a little rough near the casting number.
Unless I'm missing something I don't see a link.
Oops, senior moment lol. I fixed it above. Here it is too:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-Ford-Mustang-Shelby-CJ-SCJ-428-dual-quad-intake-manifold-C7ZX-9425-A/362314181217?epid=1423074750&hash=item545b9baa61:g:8XgAAOSw7eda8cr6
I could ship it to a parcel service though....
What's the best streetable gear you'd run?
I think 3.70s are a good compromise between performance and streetability. Of course Ford put up to 4.30s in their performance cars of the era, but those are pretty tough to deal with at highway speeds. Even 3.50s would be a major improvement over the gears you have now...
There's a C7ZX on epay now $625 was the bid I saw it at ( not mine).
2x4? Have a link? Couldn't see any when I searched.
Here's a C7ZX-A on eBay, only $563 at the moment, looks like the exhaust crossover needs attention, but that wouldn't necessarily scare me if the price is right. Cosmetically a little rough near the casting number.
There's a C7ZX on epay now $625 was the bid I saw it at ( not mine).
Any leads on a C7ZX-9425-A would be appreciated.
With regards to the factory cast but not machined thermactor ports on these, I'm still not sure if they are solid or actually open on these castings.
Pretty sure they are solid, but if not you would see a hole on the top of the head casting, over each exhaust port. And if that hole is there, it can be threaded and plugged.
I've put 2.19/1.71 valves into a 4.09 bore before, with Edelbrock heads, and they barely fit. 390 and 428 spacing on the valves is 2.0", and 427 spacing is 2.1"; if I recall correctly Edelbrock split the difference on their 428CJ heads, and they measure 2.05" spacing.
Unless you are going all out with the porting, I think the standard CJ valves will be fine. And you really won't pick up much from the 11/32" valves in terms of flow, but you will get a weight reduction. If you are not going to run the engine past 6000 RPM, probably not worth the switch.
A set of early iron heads can be done really good for under 1k. I've done this recently. They will out flow an out of the box Ed but you give up a little with the old combustion chambers. A pair of C1AE-A or C4AE-G castings are what I would start with. They're plentiful and cheap. Alexsparts.com has stainless 427 LR valves for $159.95 shipped. That's intake and exhaust. They have to be turned down to 2.15 intake and 1.65 exhaust so they don't kiss each other. A competent machine shop can easily handle the rest.
Sorry to butt-in on this thread.
Kevin, I'll be doing up a set of C6AE-R (14 bolt), do you recommend 40/45 deg intake valves in the size you show? Going on a stroked out 428 (462+). Also, I think I've read and understand the best areas to clean and open the ports on these but any recommendation are appreciated.
677- I've never messed with a C6AE-R casting. But I have had several sets in my hands over the years. They always looked starved for port cross section to me. I wouldn't try to put such a big intake valve in that port. I'd go with CJ size valves with a 45.
Sorry for skankin' up your thread Mark.
A set of early iron heads can be done really good for under 1k. I've done this recently. They will out flow an out of the box Ed but you give up a little with the old combustion chambers. A pair of C1AE-A or C4AE-G castings are what I would start with. They're plentiful and cheap. Alexsparts.com has stainless 427 LR valves for $159.95 shipped. That's intake and exhaust. They have to be turned down to 2.15 intake and 1.65 exhaust so they don't kiss each other. A competent machine shop can easily handle the rest.
Anyone know the source of this?
my pcv is hooked up on one end to the pass side valve cover,but im worried about the other end. its hooked to a port on the top of the number 4 runner on the intake. my carb has no ports on it for this. am i ok or do i need to change something
