I stash everything of value in a trailer and unmarked boxes at this point, being in the south of Chicago vicinity crime is a common problem. It is a free for all around here now.

Sounds like they knew exactly what they came for, chances are it was an inside job unfortunately.

The worst carb I have ever had the displeasure of working with, complicated and temperamental. But I like Carters and Rochesters and been known to run a Holley on occasion.

R code servo and 6 pinion low first, second planetary along with reverse roller sprag done! Some Red Clutches and steels would not hurt either.

Thanks for the input guys, haven't been on much, broken arm and spending at lot of time over at the FSB forum. I kinda wanted to stay with the M block due to the uniqueness and keep it sort of original. Kinda like the FE I am building you just do not see them anymore. I do love the Cleaveland heads, back in the day before small block heads were available we did Cleveland head swaps on 351w blocks. I was looking at the T-MOBILE Meyer stroker kit with some aftermarket heads but if I can polish the chambers and get away with 8.5:1 I would be a happy camper. The base engine I am starting with is a 78 351M I pulled from the JY, I am doing a rollerized low 1st and 2nd C6 with Hugh's Kolene plates behind it. It's gonna be a DD so want it to last with daily use. I have heard horror stories of the back mains and rods spinning so I wanted to address any issues without finding out the hard way. As far as induction goes a basic Cleaveland air gap RPM Eddy, Price plates and Eddy 800 Thunder Off Road are my plan. Was thinking a canton oil receiver tied into the rear main sender port might not be at bad idea with 25 psi actuation. I was planning also the basic alignment of oil journals for the pump, heads and can bearings with no restrictors. The engine in there now runs good but has over 100,000 miles on it and rattles without some 15-40 Rotella in there so I believe I am on borrowed time on that one. I did not realize the walls were an issue so maybe a cryogenic treatment of the block would not hurt for 300 bucks as extra insurance.

Hey Jay been a while since I signed in LOL. Was checking on the chain set.

Are you using stock heads? If so the ARP will work but buy 12pt nuts for aftermarket heads. If using T&D or other rockers some require special Allen bolts. I ended up with studs outside and Allen bolts inside to work with my T&D race rockers with 12pt nuts to clear the exhaust ports. I also had to smooth the ares around the port a little to clear the socket.