Paul, I see the same rocker and valve movement on my hydraulic lifter motors when setting the valve adjustment. Once you take the slack out of the pushrod. (mine are always sloppy loose with the correct pushrods and the adjuster backed out)  Then go the one turn and you will see the rocker and valve open a little because the lifter is full of oil. It takes a like 15 to 20 seconds for the lifter to bleed a little oil out as the spring pushes the valve back shut. It just closes slow so it's hard to see with the eye. If you put a dial indicator on the spring retainer you would see clearly it comes open .040-.050" quickly as you adjust then slowly creeps back to close as the lifter bleeds enough oil to accommodate the adjustment. If you work through Barry's procedure you'll be there assuming your pushrods are correct? But you've been running it this way so it seems this adjustment can only verify another problem exists or be an improvement.
Jason

More info I forgot to mention I have already cut about .015" of the estimated .030" to get to my 72 cc average on the older head. It's not consistent but I seem to get around 1cc for every .005 I cut off.
Thanks
Jason

Thanks for the input guys I will give the TA-31 a shot
Jason

Brent, Thanks for the reply. Yes it was a light checking spring and a solid roller lifter. Upon assembly the hydraulic lifters and standard valve springs will go back in. I have room to spare on the exhaust side especially since I advanced the cam.
Thanks again
Jason

Hello Old Man 62, if you don't find what your looking for over in the LA basin and don't mind a trip to Riverside county message me I think I have some of the parts you need.
Jason

Jakes66 after reading this I was looking close at my "105" block that I am just starting to put together, and it seems like an easy mistake to make. The ref book I am using is Steve Christ how to rebuild BBF only mentions lining the  oil hole in the bearing with the oil passages in the block. On the # 1 cam bearing that's easier because there's two holes in both the bearing and two in the block to match. But as you all know on #2-5 there's a hole at 12 o'clock from the galley and one at 6 o'clock headed to the mains with the channels all around those last four and only a single bearing hole. For me putting an FE together only occasionally this has left me a little confused before. It surprises me that the pressurized feed at 12 couldn't carry enough oil around to the loaded side at 6 to protect the cam and bearings for the short duration you ran it. I guess a new tight motor and those valve springs are still enough force to break through that oil film?
 On your #1 cam bearing was it in with holes at 12 o'clock and like 3 o'clock which would block any flow at all from getting to it or the distributor bushing or was it in correct with holes at 6 o'clock and 9 that gives it full flow. I ask because it's different than the others and if it was in correctly the #1 cam bearing should be good unless something else in the motor was wrong? I don't mean to be a PITA but this is one of those threads that's worth it's weight in gold for guys like me who can learn from someone's experiences.
Thanks,
Jason

Hello all, great forum I'm new here but I have been stalking it for a while. Anyways finally signed up and I was looking for some ideas on completing my CVR electric water pump install on my 64 Galaxie. I've got the pump installed with FE power adapter brackets (power steer and alt. version). I need to connect my heater core return (I believe) and there is no provision on the CVR pump for it. Is this hose supposed to go to the pump suction side? Anybody running this and using their heater still, how are you tapping in? There are two ports in the pump for the inlet connection from the radiator below one plugged and one to the radiator hose. Can I go in to one of those if I tap the plug connection somehow. Or should I try to tee into the lower hose? Thanks in advance for any help.

Jason