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Messages - tall69

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1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 07, 2017, 09:13:15 AM »
We used to have a line lock wired too, but he hasn't had issues rolling through the lights, so he doesn't use it

He's obviously never raced at Beaver Springs...lol  But instead of rolling through the lights, you roll backwards. ::)

Wow. :o  I don't use my line lock to stage, just to do the burnout.  It got old doing the old clutch drop stab the brake dance.

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 07, 2017, 07:39:48 AM »
This is all good information guys.  It gives me a lot to think about.

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 06, 2017, 09:22:06 AM »
Are you launching on a rev limiter?  We've had good luck on a 440 inch Rat that runs about the same times by holding it to the boards and letting the limiter hold it on a launch pill.  Takes one less movement out of the equation

No, but my MSD has a two step feature that I'm going to try.  So, a question about this.  When you stage against a rev limiter with the carb at WOT, the pump shot is out of the picture obviously.  Would fuel on the primary and secondary side be flowing and balanced effectively through the boosters before launch?

What's the best way to enable the two step?  A momentary switch on the clutch?  Tie it to my line lock on my shifter handle?

That should be able to push enough fuel to not lean out.  Might look at the pump shot.  Start the car, run it to your launch rpm and see how far the throttle is open.  Then shut it off.  Compare that setting to how much pump shot is left, even on the back side. I would likely bet you aren't that far into the throttle to use up the pump shot.  Maybe move the pump cam to the next spot and see if that gives you a later shot.  Cheap way to test it.

I've tried this.  On the primary side, it's nearly out of stroke.  My secondaries don't come in until 2/3 throttle, so none of that shot is used while I stage.  I could try a different cam, or a different cam position.  I'll have to do some reading on accelerator pump tuning.

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 05, 2017, 11:02:32 AM »
What carb are you running?

QFT Q-series 1050

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 05, 2017, 10:39:30 AM »
The more pressure you run in a DR the quicker it goes, up to some point.  So here's another problem to consider - if you want to induce some spin in your launch program, you may need to switch to slicks.  DRs do not recover well from spin like a slick.  They dead hook or blow off, not much in between.

I'm running Hoosier QTP's, which are a DOT legal bias ply drag tire.  I switched from MT ET Street Radials for the reason you mention.

...If something breaks, then replace it with something stronger.

 :o

Yup, the higher the RPM, the quicker it is recovering/less bog and it will go faster.
You have 3-4 more tenths in it if you can get it moving.  I used to go 11.5's at 116-117 mph.

Good to know.  Another astute drag racer suggested that the bog might be, in part, fuel related.  This is quite possible.  My pump shot is probably all used up at my launch RPM level.  I can switch to a 50cc pump shot and delay the cam to ensure I have some fuel left for launch.  I've attached a graph showing my RPM and AFR of my 11.90 run last year.  It does go way lean at the launch and every time I shift.  The black line is the RPM, and purple the AFR.


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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 04, 2017, 05:59:46 PM »
what rpm are you dropping the clutch at on the tree?

Up to 4800RPM.  The higher the launch, the faster it seems to go.  Something has to give though.  So far, I've been lucky.

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 04, 2017, 11:44:11 AM »
For a quick change, take off the 90/10's and put a stock shock back on.  That might slow the front end down and help take some of the bite out.

How tight is the gap on the slapper bars?  Make it tight, so it doesn't allow the tire to dig in as much.

I had stock shocks and heavy front springs on it 2 years ago, same result.  I maybe have a 1/4" gap now between the rubber bumper and spring.  If I eliminate the gap, would that reduce downward pressure on the tire?  I've been contemplating removing the slapper bars because it rides like sh*t on the street.

Has anyone tried the clutch tamer setup that gets promoted on different websites?  Seems like snake oil to me, but maybe there's some validity to it.


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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 04, 2017, 09:32:46 AM »
I'll also add that you'd only want to go to a taller tire to increase your contact patch, as in having traction - spin - problems.  If you are not having spin issues, then go up a gear and leave the tires.

Okay, so no to a bigger tire.  I need to introduce tire slippage into my program.  I was under the impression that increasing tire pressure should theoretically create less traction.  Is this not accurate?  I've tried 18-22 psi and it still dead hooks.

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 03, 2017, 03:13:06 PM »
My guess is the Close ratio toploader is causing all the problems.  They were fine if you have 4.88 gears in the back and slicks from the 60's that spin real easy.

What for shocks are you running?  Traction devices?  You need to tighten things up to not allow so much bite.  Tighten the front end so it doesn't rise, tighten the rear so it doesn't plant the tire. 

How about no burn out?  Skip the water, just stage and go.  A heavy clutch and no gear ratio is hard to get moving.

I switched to wide ratio kit when I rebuilt my toploader two years ago.  I wish there was a better 1st gear option for toploaders.  2.78 is just not deep enough.  I heard bad things about the 2.90 first gear so I skipped it. 

I switched to 90\10 drag shocks, small block front springs, and roller perches last year.  Which might have me going the wrong way?  I have slapped bars on the back with an extra leaf on the passenger side.  I'm launching at 4k+ RPM.  I'm already worried about breakage.  Thus far, it's either bogged or the clutch has slipped.  I really need a soft-lok clutch, but I drive it mostly on the street and don't want to deal with those headaches. 

I could maybe go to 4.33's from 4.11's.  It would raise my big end RPM by a couple hundred which would put me just beyond my targeted RPM max of 6k.

10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 03, 2017, 10:54:00 AM »
So is the car bogging off the line, is that the reason you want a deeper gear?  Yes, putting a bigger tire and equally more gear is not going to help, likely make it a bit worse.  You need some tire rotation(spin) to help keep the motor up in the power.

Yes, it dead hooks and bogs.  I'm running 27x10.5 QTPs, with 18-22psi and a very mild burnout.  On one run last year, my clutch or tires slipped a little on the launch.  This resulted in a 1.71 60' and 11.90 ET, my best in both cases by a significant margin.  Do I try more air in the tire?  Smaller or different compound tires?  How do I get a controlled slip at launch?

11
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 02, 2017, 08:24:57 PM »
So, I need help understanding something.  If I lower my gear ratio, from 4.11 to say 4.56 to improve my starting line ratio, but increase my tire diameter (from 27 to 29) to keep my big end RPM in check, would I actually be improving the mechanical advantage at the starting line or would the changes cancel each other out?  Let's assume I'd have no traction problems with either tire and gear setup.  I understand the physics behind it, but I'm wondering if any of you have tested this at the track.

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: New Members - Introduce Yourselves Here!
« on: October 27, 2016, 09:59:41 AM »
Hey all, new member Joel here.  Residing in Minnesota, I've know Jay for several years.  He's helped me out on more than one occasion.  My forum name, tall69, is derived from my first collector car.  A presidential blue '69 Ford Talladega.  I was late to the muscle car game, not acquiring my first until my early 30's.  I cosmetically and mechanically restored it.  Including a repaint and stock rebuild of the original 428CJ.   I was more into the drag racing lineage of muscle cars.  The Talladega was, no doubt, an important part of stock car racing's history.  The 375 dyno'd horsepower, column shift automatic car had me longing for more. 

My opportunity came a few years later in the form of a 1970 Torino Cobra.  Big block, check, drag pack, check, 4 speed, check, impact color, check, high back buckets, check.  Oh, by the way, it's one of 207 Torino Cobra's with a 4.30 Detroit Locker rear end.  This was no beauty queen.  It ran and drove, but it had been run hard and put away wet.  Although the odometer only reads 15k, it was a really rough 15k.  It was missing most of the underhood goodies.  The rest of the drivetrain was intact.  That gave me liberties to build what I wanted.  I wanted loud, aggressive, brash.  I'd say I hit all of my goals.   :D

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Quote
If you think about it, there has to be a way to disengage it after launch. You just need to invent it...

I could make up a bunch of excuses about it being too hard, expensive, or time consuming, but I'm guessing that mentality doesn't fly on this site.

How about the slippage impact on a street clutch?  Heat, wear?

14
The issue, as reported by others, is that it doesn't disengage so it affects shifts 2 thru 4 as well.  Pedal-less shifts are the answer I suppose.

15
I run a heavy steel flywheel (about 35#).  I'm not sure whether or not this changes things.

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