A small update:

Work has began. Im not a car electric expert, but some knowledge I have. I assume its ok to remove the old generator regulator.

There is a black/yellow wire (orange/green arrow - same wire) from the regulator to the starter solenoid, its connected to same location as the red wire from the alternator (yellow arrows). Can this be disconnected from the solenoid?

Another wire, the yellow/black has the same route,  this is for the charging warning light, so it will be connected to the alternator


My plan is to loosen the three screws on the regulator, disconnect the wires. The insulate the metalconnectors on the wires and "hide" them in the engine bay

Non of the electric components are dependent on the old regulator?

The last picture is of the waterpump pulley. Does the rows look ok? That pulley, and the crankpulley was sandblasted some years ago. Then painted black, except the rows

These pictures are big, tried to make them more fitted for using here, but its still best to open them in a new tab

Hello and merry christmas


I have a quite similar problem as Pentroof had: https://bit.ly/2QojQoO

In my case, a 1-wired alternater like this https://bit.ly/2t1YGF4 was installed, with a custom bracket like this https://bit.ly/2Q06WhZ


Its the same problem, at start ups, it squeals in some seconds, now and then more than 10 seconds, maybe 30 seconds. When the engine gets hot, its silent

As the attacked images show, the V-belt for the alternator/waterpump has a 10mm wide belt. It is a bit "deep down" in the groove imo.

The belt for the powersteering is 12 mm wide and it looks it isnt as deep in the groove as the 10mm belt

Have the belts the correct width? Are the grooves in the PS-pulley and outer crankpulley wider than the other grooves?

Following rockauto, 10 and 12 mm are correct belts


The crank- and waterpumppulley are the original ones


-Kjell

Yes, the external and internal detent mechanisms have to be synced. My 67 C6 does not have any rooster comb style detent plate (lower picture) either inside or outside the pan, but the manual shifter in the valve body has grooves that works with a spring and ball, shown in the upper attached picture. I guess the grooves/spring/ball have the function to detent the trans inside, instead of a "rooster comb"

Thanks for helpfull hints so far. The original black ball shifter that originally controlled the cruise-o-matic-trans is still used. The lever on the attached image is installed, so it should be enough travel and possibility to adjust to get it work. In spite that the shop ment it was something inside the trans that didnt work, the external mechanism will be checked before eventually removing the tail housing and eventually the pan

Hi

This is a forum for FE engines, but I hope its ok to ask a question about C6 trans

Its a relatively simple question; in park, the trans "jumps" out of park-postion. A shop was going to adjust it externally, but concluded that its something inside the trans that has to be replaced or adjusted. Is it a way to adjust or check the function of the park pawl without disassemblying the extension tail of the transmission?

Gave it a try today. I got these results (approximatly):

Cylinder 1 exhaust valve   

-lobe lift max: 0.253" (110° centerline)
-opening point: 69° BBDC
-closing point : 66° ATDC


Cylinder 1 intake valve

-lobe lift max: 0.246" (112°)
-opening point: 47° BTDC
-closing point : 115° ABDC

These opening/closing point are measured at 0.00 lift so the duration became over 300 degrees. My equipment didnt work 110 % as it should , and there may be some errors

The 390 in my 63 Galaxie is from 67. The intake is a CJ-intake from 69. What I wonder is which cam the engine has. I have a deegree kit and the intake is off. How to determine if the cam is a GT-cam, a standard 390-cam or another? 

Quote from: 1976kjell on February 18, 2016, 07:19:06 PM

In 1963 the High performance intakes had natural alu finish, the other 390s ( and all other engines that year) had black intakes. The intake is from a 67 Mustang, so the original color is Ford Blue

The intake would not have come from a 67 Mustang. 67's never got the CJ. 68 and later cars.
It will have a date code on it and you will be able to tell the exact date it was cast. It will
be a number, letter than a number. ex: 8D15,  1968 April 15

Your right ScotiaFE. The intake is probaby from a 69 Mustang, but the engine block at last is from a 67 Mustang. The intake is produced in 1969 March 14 ie 9C14

https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-intake