Attachment a little clearer but don't click on it or it's WAY too big. I'm trying .
I've had these heads about 30+ years since I removed them thinking all the while they were LR heads but more likely they are 390 with LR size valves installed.
Imagine my disappointment .

I fixed the attachments (I think)

Thanks

I remember the radiator shops used to unsolder the tanks, then boil it clean in a tank, then run brushes through the tubes and then solder the tanks back on. They called it "rodding" out the radiator. Too much labor cost these days except for specialty stuff. DIY flush saves you a lot of dough unless you find someone to do it for 30 or even 50 bucks or so as mentioned earlier.

Excellent info link Steve. Thank you.
By the way those headers I bought from you last year worked out perfect.
JK.

I want to replace the B&M manual reverse pattern valve body (purchased in the 70's)in my C6 with a new one from TCI (also manual reverse pattern) and the rep says it will not work in a 1966 C6. I'm not sure of the year of mine but remember it being an early one. How can I tell and what is different that it won't work?
Thanks.
J.K.

Thanks guys I feel a lot better about the tranny. I did replace the front converter and tail shaft seal when the motor was out. I'm gonna change the filter and what fluid comes out (no drain on the converter) with type F, I think it's the same as the B&M blue fluid.
John.

While I was typing this I got the post from Rory428 and not feeling quite so good now, I would hate to send metal through an expensive converter let alone the rest of the trans. I guess if it slips I can shut it down before metal migrates, maybe. I might run it a bit then drop pan and check for clutch material.
Thanks again.

Then again it's pretty tough to tell if it's slipping with an 8" torque converter!