HWOODS is correct. IF you have a title, the dynacorn body is more affordable than rebuilding a rotten car. I restore classics and customs for a living. Inch by inch sounds great to the wallet at first but at the finish line.....not so much. Entirely JMO( from 25+ years experience)

If anyone is into wall art I have a 68 c-code fb open title that would make a great display, even has a matching dash vin plate.

wharris428    at    gmail

New everything build to S-code, down to detail work but driving.  Eight point S&W roll bar, Tin Man connectors. Has 496, BBM block, RPM steel crank, ATI balancer, Crower rods, CP pistons (around 13.5 to 1), Blue Thunder quench camber heads, custom Victor intake with relocated intake ports/pushrod tubes, 1000 cfm E-85 Quick Fuel, 1100HP RobbMc pump and starter, MSD distributor and 6 digital. .700 ++ lift roller, T&D rockers with offset 1.8 on intakes, offset Crower lifter with pin oiling. Has coated REF headers with merge collectors, full 3 1/2" X-pipe stainless with some Inconel mandrel bend exhaust out the valance.  Quick Time bell, McLeod twin disk, big in/big out wide ratio Top Loader, 3” 1350 driveshaft, 3.91 traction loc N with Moser axles. Caltrac bars, splits leafs and rear shocks. Hydroboost brakes. Late GTO leather, 100 watt stereo, 8k tach and 140mph speedo. Mickey Drag radials and front runners. Big Aluminum radiator with twin SPALs, runs cool. $50K  W. Michigan   wharris428   at    gmail

68 S-code FB, virtually rust free now courtesy of replacement panels. Eight point S&W roll bar, Tin Man connectors. Has 496, BBM block, RPM steel crank, ATI balancer, Crower rods, CP pistons (around 13.5 to 1), Blue Thunder quench camber heads, custom Victor intake with relocated intake ports/pushrod tubes, 1000 cfm E-85 Quick Fuel, 1100HP RobbMc pump and starter, MSD distributor and 6 digital. .700 ++ lift roller, T&D rockers with offset 1.8 on intakes, offset Crower lifter with pin oiling. Has coated REF headers with merge collectors, full 3 ½” X-pipe stainless with some Inconel mandrel bend exhaust out the valance.  Quick Time bell, McLeod twin disk, big in/big out wide ratio Top Loader, 3” 1350 driveshaft, 3.91 traction loc N with Moser axles. Caltrac bars, splits leafs and rear shocks. Hydroboost brakes. Late GTO leather, 100 watt stereo, 8k tach and 140mph (160?) speedo. Mickey Drag radials and front runners. Big Aluminum radiator with twin SPALs, runs cool. New everything new build, down to detail work but driving. Really just enjoy the build, well into my next build now and the Mustang has just been sitting on my hoist. Serious requests for more info only please. $55K  W. Michigan   wharris428   at    gmail

Every time the engine comes out of my 68 Mustang with tower braces and REFs more access holes go in the shock towers. I have BT heads making it even worse. Some places have 6pt bolts, some 12pt.. Getting to be pretty good with a crow's foot on a universal wrapped in electrical tape. Also have an assortment of cut and welded 7/16" wrenches now. Excellent reason to have another beer.

I believe they make specialized epoxy based products just for that purpose. My intake has had the floor of the port opening brought up about 1/4" if I'm remembering correctly.

I realize it's not the direction you are taking but I have REF headers on my late 68 that has the reinforced towers and also has BT heads which have raised exhaust ports making it even tighter. Maybe your towers have tilted in a little like they do when the years add up. When my engine was out I jacked some between the towers just to be sure and always kept it braced apart until the engine went back in.

My 68 Mustang is assembled with one that I bought a couple of years ago. There is a lot of "non-stock" in my set-up, REF headers and a twin disc so my Z-bar may not be indexed quite like stock. To get the alignment to my liking I believe I only lengthened the Z-bar 5/8" to 3/4".