Tom was certainly a "unique" individual who could adapt pretty much anything to work to suit whatever current project or whim he had going on. Unfortunately, staying focused and actually finishing something wasn't one of his strong points. He could tell stories non stop, was well read and a wealth of FE and Ford knowledge. He's been fighting health problems (not brain Cancer) for several years now but I'm glad that myself, Tommy T and Gary B got together with him for lunch in August.  We're all running out of time so cherish what you and family have.  RIP Tom

Did you want the sheet metal look? or just want a plan no logos cast type set that will fit roller rockers?

Just want a plain no logo look that will clear a fairly big Cam and T&D rockers. The Sheet Metal came to mind as possibly a reasonable cost option however that's no in question. I do have a set of decent M/T's and like the look but the breathers would likely be a fitment issue. I could also use my current M/T's since they already have breathers and i can only run one engine at a time.

Thanks for the input. I'm not keen on the look of the Moroso's and add in the issues XR7 mentioned means I'll keep looking. I'm not opposed to the sand cast ones either but they are hard to come by. I should have bought a set off Jay when I had the chance. I keep hoping the Canadian $$ will improve and ease the financial pain but that doesn't appear like it will happen before I die. 

Is there such a thing as "good quality" out there or are they mostly offshore junk. I'm going to need a set of covers with breathers in them since I don't want a Vac pump or PCV. They used to be posted all over the place but I suspect the crap quality caught up to the suppliers. Any suggestions appreciated.

I don't but couldn't hurt I suppose. Given the Carbs are on backwards I don't think there's the need as much as if they were the other way around. JMO

i was mostly talking about quarter mile speeds.i wont be doing any road course type stuff.just wondering what to expect if it goes a big mph in the 1/4.
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How much HP you have will dictate your MPH. I'm comfortable at 130-135 but after that not as brave as I once was. Just because you have a rolling start won't increase your top end because you still only have 1/4 mile to get there. If it was longer then you could sneak up on a few more MPH with the right gear.
[/quote]seems like if you are already doing 40 at the start line,then you go another 1/4 mile that it would be a bigger mph than from a dig

Well. yes and no. If you have the HP and don't run out of RPM you "should" pick up some MPH but it won't be dramatic enough to worry about a chute or the suspension. My car will run 135 either way because it's out of power and RPM at that point.  If I run 104 MPH to the 1/8th I only pick up roughly 30 MPH to the 1/4. You're not going to gain 40 MPH just because that's where you started.

Nonetheless, it could be fun so go ahead and later post the results. I can always stand to learn something as well.   
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In spite of what "should" be true there is no rhyme or reason to ET/MPH/ 60' relationship in my experience. Some of my best ET's have come from less than stellar 60' times. I blame that on the driver however. Start line spin usually equates to a slightly higher MPH because you effectively have taken a running start to the finish line.

It is a given that you can't MPH without HP and looking at your setup I'd be expecting something in the 130 range. My stuff is very similar although I suspect my car is lighter but even my 390 runs 132 MPH and it's not at your HP level. Nonetheless, good that you got some last runs in and went home in one piece. One question, what back tire do you run?

My uneducated opinion is you need to get the Cal-trak split mono springs. Their bars are basically a poor mans 4 link and when combined with a stiff stock front leaf spring the whole thing goes into a bind situation under acceleration. All other suggestions here are also valid but with the mono spring, the front 1/2 of the spring can flex and let the bars do their job.

That said, I've had wheel hop at the track with all the good parts installed and it comes down to tire (slick) pressure and shock settings. Wheel hop also seems to be a stick car only thing unless something else is way out of whack.