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Messages - habu

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FE Technical Forum / Re: help with coil/pink resistor wire
« on: August 08, 2014, 03:40:32 PM »
I wish, I've always loved the plane and was fascinated by it seeing it fly outta Palmdale, my grandparents lived there, a couple times when I was young and again at an airshow up at Edwards, before the Shuttle.....

It's been an online 'handle' forever that very few get. If I had any real experience with a sled or something other than seeing one now at a museum, it'd be hard not to talk about it.  8)

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FE Technical Forum / Re: help with coil/pink resistor wire
« on: August 08, 2014, 02:25:31 PM »
Aww crud. You are absolutely right. No info makes it difficult for anyone to help. Thank you

1969 F250. Everything under the dash is OE. Except for what I'm going to swap out to fix the resistor to 12v.

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FE Technical Forum / help with coil/pink resistor wire
« on: August 08, 2014, 11:08:15 AM »
I've been lurking for a bit and have gained a lot of valuable information between here and fordfe.com. While my question isn't specifically FE based, I can move this to the non-FE related section if needed, I do have an FE and have learned to love it, if that counts

I have a fairly standard, low buck 390 build in my truck. I replaced the factory ignition with the MSD 8595 "ready-to-run" ignition. Trying to start the engine and break-in the cam proved frustrating and after a couple minutes of it not wanting to run and worrying about a myriad of issues, timing, vacuum leaks, bad gas..etc, I called MSD. The 8595 needs 12v to work. I have the Pink resistor wire from the ignition switch to a connector where the "I" from the solenoid also joins. This needs to be replaced with a regular 12v wire, about 12ga I think. Also this is a good time to state, I am really bad at electronics, knowing enough to understand how it works and enough to cause problems.

How do I replace the Pink wire. How do I get it out of the back of the ignition switch connector and where do I find a new pin to go back into the connector.
OR...
do I cut the pink wire, leaving a little bit at both ends and splice in a new 12v wire. Wouldn't this effectively still leave some of the resistance in the wire ?

The engine, which I hope to finish soon.
390 .060 over. Stock crank/rods. SilvOlite pistons. Crower 16915 cam(I think it's too small). Streetmaster intake, unported. C8AE heads, Holley 750 vacuum secondary.
Not the type of build that is usually here, but it's mine.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: first post, first FE, dumb questions
« on: February 07, 2014, 09:17:39 AM »
Thank you and since it was at night, the pics are spotty. I didn't use Barry's silicon recommendation, just a really good bead along the block, the problem is there is about, guesstimating here, a 1/8 gap between the block and intake at the ends. Thanks for the reminder about the distributor. Will make sure to do that. Last night I just wanted the intake on and then spend this weekend to do the rest. The gap at the end bummed me out to stop for the evening.

Also, minor issue but frustrating as well. bought the ARP intake bolt kit. The long bolts for the intake runners on either side are too long to use you have to sort of put 'em in sideways til they bottom out on the intake (intake off engine), but when it's on the engine the bottom of the bolt of course hits the head/gasket and isn't in alignment to screw in because the rest of the bolt can't get past the runner.

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FE Technical Forum / first post, first FE, dumb questions
« on: February 07, 2014, 12:41:08 AM »
Hello,
  Not a stranger to ford engines, 385 primarily, but a complete n00b to FE engines. This being my first post I apologize upfront for not going back far enough or probably missing something in the search that's probably going to answer my question. The engine is going into a 69 F250 replacing the 390 2V that was the original engine. Truck use, almost daily driving. No real towing, no real strip use. Want it to move when I step on the loud pedal.

About the engine.
390, bored to .60.
C8AE heads with no real work done to them
Streetmaster intake, no porting
Crower 268H 16915 cam, springs (it looks like I went too conservative in cam)
Adjustable rocker valve train, oil restrictors, .070 holley jets in the oil passage to head.
MSD drop in ready to run distributor
Holley 750 vacuum secondary
Doug Thorley Headers
TransGo reprogramming performed to C6 on back-end.
Rear Gear I think is 3.54 ?? some odd number. It's a dana 60, oh and a 2WD.

Engine was a long block from the engine shop that did all the work, picked up motor ready from intake to pan.
In the slow, slow process of disassembling the truck and getting ready to plop in the new motor I realized, to my dismay, that the heater and water temp bosses on the intake were stripped enough that the intake had to come off. Took intake to a more local engine shop, not original builder who should have warned or alerted me to this, and they also milled down the intake surface because it was pitted enough around the water passages to warrant the milling of the surface. They also fixed welded and retapped the stripped bosses.

On to my problem. Putting the intake on this evening, there are serious gaps between the block and the ends of the intake. The intake and head aligns pretty well but WOW the gaps are bad. Using Edelbrock gaskets I laid down a bead of silicone on the block to seal the intake. I've read that many only use the silicone. If I didn't use the cork or rubber end seals is that explaining the gaps or is it because the intake was surfaced. Is this normal ?

sorry about the flickr links. Need to get the photos over to photo bucket or figure out how to link Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/86135415@N00/12356977324/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/86135415@N00/12356962574/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/86135415@N00/12356977324/

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