Can you get that SHO motor in a little Escort or something? Sleeper alert!

Hey guys, looking to replace the plug wires for my 63 Galaxie R code and not sure what to get. I’m guessing original equipment is not something I’ll be able to find. Running a Pertronix type of distributor (not sure what it is, but looks like Pertronix) so what would be best to run with that? Coming up with all kinds of different stuff rom Google. Looking at Moroso 51074 Ultra Series but you guys are wiser than me when it comes to this stuff.

ETA: looking at it now I think I need the non HEI version

What kind of springs should I use on the heads to best match with Mr. Lykins roller cam?

I’m about to paint my old Merc that has a service block 428 and a C6 in it with a Pertonix distributor and I’ll have some funds left which is good because it’s actually pretty slow. Has regular FE heads on it and an aluminum modern Holley with electric choke. I’ve got some 1965 Mercury Marauder 390 heads, shop said $750 for a rebuild on them. Probably go with an Edelbrock Performer intake and use the same carb I already have. Need a cam. I’d like for it to sound really choppy and otherwise be a good street cam. Figured this would be the best place to ask. Open to other ideas. WWYD with $2500ish to spruce up and old 428?

TIA

No, it doesn’t overheat, just the starter heat soak issue. Came apart clean so I’m just going to leave it in there. I’ll have to look up what it is. Someone told me they had the same problem and dialing back the timing solved the problem, which I will try next if this cooling system flush doesn’t do it.

Pre apology for this rant I just had to get this off my chest. I do as much of my own work as I can but I also have a bad back and sometimes need a mechanic to help me get things moving along with my projects. So, I guess it was about 3 years ago my transmission burnt up. Called a trans shop which sent me to another shop that “does C6s all the time” and $1200 later I thought I was in good shape. Turned out the hot trans fluid had internally cracked the trans cooler on the radiator and after figuring that out and replacing the radiator I thought I was good. Not long after that the starter went out. I didn’t know this yet but the trans rebuilder left out the block plate. Took the car to a known local hot rod mechanic who used to be good but now he just contracts out stuff and doesn’t care. Replaced starter, did not catch missing block plate. Starter went out again soon after that and chewed up the flywheel. I took it to a new place I thought was good (turns out no so much) and had them replace the starter, the fywheel and might as well do the rear main seal while you’re there. They discovered the missing block plate. A very nice person on these forums sent me one for free, I cleaned it up and it worked great. I thought things were good. Did have to whack the cheap starter with a hammer one time though. I dropped the gas tank, cleaned it out and fixed it up, new sending unit, etc. and car runs bad and then wont start. I replace coil, Pertronix, distributor rotor, plug wires, still no start. I get it back to the mechanic with a RobbMc starter and a brake upgrade kit that will allow me to switch to front disc later if I want. No start was an issue where something they did with the electric choke was causing it to ground out. They have the car for months, can’t figure out the starter, can’t figure out the brake kit. They aren’t returning my calls. I finally get ahold of them and I ask them to tow the car to another mechanic, they say they will and then don’t. I eventually get fed up, go over there myself, pay them $525 for doing nothing and get the car to the new mechanic, who I think maybe totally honest and a good guy which would be fantastic because everybody in this town sucks. Mechanics are so bad here in fact, I’ve thought about opening a shop because if you could actually do good work you’d be really busy. Anyway, anyone else had something like this happen? 1 thing goes wrong and 3 years and $5000 later things still aren’t fixed?

So, I currently have my 65 Mercury Park Lane at a mechanic to get some things done. Just had a different mechanic instal a new starter on a different car and the one that was removed is a RobbMc 3001 by all appearances. “Identical to the new one”, said the mechanic. It was a good and working starter, I’m trying to solve a heat soak issue on that car and the new 3001 did not change the issue. So, I gave the older (but working) starter with the instructions to the other mechanic. He says the pitch isn’t adjustable and it’s not engaging with the flywheel. He installed both the starter and the flywheel that is on there (184 tooth) so I have to assume he knows what he’s talking about but also there’s no reason, from what I understand, that this starter (which is sold to work with a 184 tooth flywheel) shouldn’t work. He says this starter can’t be shimmed. Thought I’d pass this by you guys since I know a lot of you use these starters to see if anything jumps out at you immediately. Thanks.

Have confirmed it was Macs that used to make the repops and they no longer do and they aren’t going to.