Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Agar426

Pages: [1] 2
1
Agreed!  My mechanic said he wanted to flush the oil, get it up to temp.....seafoam, flush again.  I would love to tear it down....actually mothball the numbers matching block, and drop in a stroker FE.  Not a high zoot one, just a clean, simple strong 445 combo that will "act" like a big block should.  That being said, I have other projects that I need to wrap up, so if this needs more than the flush treatment, I will likely go with a simple repair, which the shop shows on the computer as 4.5 hours of labor, plus the cost of the gaskets and lifter set.  The question becomes...since the intake is coming off anyway, does it make sense to install a Performer RPM, or will the difference in performance be so negligible without a combination of upgrades (heads, cam, headers), that it makes the new intake an expense without much benefit?

2
Looks like a bad lifter.....damn!  Now the subject changes, should I start a new thread?

3
my vote is exhaust leak, especially if you have gaskets between the head & manifold and or still have the heat riser spring at the right side doughnut.

I'm running an open element air cleaner.  The OE emissions gear is in my father-in-law's shed.  The sound itself, audibly sounds "hard" as if two objects were hitting each other. 

4
Thank you all for the suggestions!  My apologies on the late response, as I didn't get a notification.  I usually check at least once a day, but got caught up with household chores.  I am definitely planning on freshening the fluids.  I typically drive it to work for a week straight about once every month in the good months.  During winter, only if it's dry out.  It gets use, just not daily use.  The current oil in the crank case only has about 1,000 miles on it, but...it is a couple years old, so I will get on that right away. 

It is a correct assessment that the engine is still running the factory exhaust manifolds.  I will investigate that as well.  Part of me wants it to need to be pulled, but the other part of me can't afford it at this time.

I would LOVE a stroker kit.....nothing crazy, but I want at least 500 lb ft.  Don't care what the horsepower is, as long as it's at least 475......although over 500 would be great, but not at the expense of driveability.  I should mention that I live at 7400 ft.  I actually have a thread on here about 3 years old asking questions about the build.  Was expecting a decent cash out from work, which I got, but I put the money into the house instead of the car.  Dammit! ;)  That being said, I love reading any and all input on FE builds, so keep it coming!  My goal, as I stated is no less than 500 lb. ft,  good driveability, fuel injection (off the shelf if they will work ok....Atomic, Sniper, FiTech, etc.), and hopefully a swap to a 5 or 6 speed from the C6.

5
I've got a '67 Mustang Fastback with the 390/C6 combination. ~135k miles, but was rebuilt ~20 years ago, with only about 10k miles since the rebuild.  I only use it as a weekend driver, maybe occasionally to work.  Lately, I've been getting a ticking sound coming from the engine, which increases as the RPMs go up.  It's a single tick, not a rattle, so I am thinking it may be one of the lifters?  Maybe the fuel pump?  I am not a very good mechanic, so I am merely guessing.  Here's the weird thing....it doesn't do it at start up, it starts after I've been at operating temp a while.  But, after a few minutes, it goes away.  Stops completely.....

Here's the thing.....if it's something major, I don't want to spend bad money before I spend good money.  The car runs fine, but it's not what I would call a strong engine.  It runs out of steam around 4,000 RPMs, oh, it makes plenty of noise above 4k, but it doesn't do anything exciting.  Point being, I don't want to spend $X to fix a problem, when $2x will get me new heads, new intake, and maybe headers. 

So, two questions:  1)  Any thoughts on what it might be, and why it comes and goes?  2)  If it's major, and in the valvetrain, do I pull the engine and do a full up rebuild, or even stash the engine (numbers matching), and replace with another 390 long block?  Or, do I just make the repair and drive it around happily?

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Educate Me on Roller Cams and the FE
« on: November 25, 2013, 02:25:39 PM »
TORQUE is what makes them fun to drive , the 5 speed makes a big difference in your ability to drive the car any where .. Bud

That's the reason I want to go with the 445 stroker....free torque!  While I'm no mechanic or engineer, I've always liked the idea of displacement over pushing an engine harder.  I figure with today's technology and parts, getting 1 hp/ci should be a reasonable expectation and still maintain a level of civility.  Honestly, I think with today's heads, cams, and efi...I hope that I can squeeze out even a little more than that! ;)

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Educate Me on Roller Cams and the FE
« on: November 24, 2013, 10:04:38 PM »
Don t forget about how much you will actually drive the vehicle , most of us have collector car/ truck insurance with mileage limitations . At best i would drive my car maybe 5000 miles a year , so a 100,000 motor would take 20 years ..


I definitely plan on using the car as much possible.  I am fortunate enough to live in a town that is relatively mellow and free of crime, so I can drive it to work, grocery store, etc.  I definitely would like for it to be reliable enough to take it on extended road trips.  It's more important to me that it be reliable and have a reasonable amount of drivability, then it being able to run a 10 second quarter mile, or be a beast on a road course.  That being said, I still want it to be a muscle car......I want it to be able to live up to the rep that muscle cars had, even if the stories were exaggerated. 

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Educate Me on Roller Cams and the FE
« on: November 20, 2013, 12:51:50 PM »
Wow....a lot of good discussion here.  As the OP, my questions were simply to get educated on the subject.  However, in case anyone was wondering, I don't plan on racing the car, either on the track or on the strip.  I plan on using the car for everything else, from going to work in 35mph traffic, to extended road trips, and everything in between.  I would like to push the car on occasion, and I do like accelerating with a purpose.  I don't need a 700hp beast, but I would like something that will put a big smile on my face, and push my butt back in the seat.  If you read my other thread, the plan is for this to be in a 445 stroker, with output in the neighborhood of ~450=500hp, roughly 1 hp/ci, if not a little more, with a manual tranny.

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Advice for '67 Mustang Fastback
« on: November 18, 2013, 08:42:03 PM »
My apologies....after reading back through this thread, I referenced the MSD distributors incorrectly, regarding the MSD ready to run dizzy not having the vacuum advance. 

What I meant to say, was is the MSD pro billet with a 6a or 7 box at a disadvantage because it doesn't have a vacuum advance like the MSD ready to run has?

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Advice for '67 Mustang Fastback
« on: November 18, 2013, 08:39:29 PM »
Build your 445 , listen to all these guy s and match your parts well and you will be very happy . i currently have a 428 c j in my 69 mach with a tremec and 3.70 s and love it .. BUTT i am going to build 463 with my other 428 block and can hardly wait . good luck and keep us posted and welcome to the forum .. Bud

Agreed...this forum rocks!  Great people, great responses, and a feeling that everyone genuinely is anticipating the final product.  Gotta love it!  Thanks for the welcome!

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Advice for '67 Mustang Fastback
« on: November 18, 2013, 09:32:39 AM »
Remember that the 390 was NOT the top of the heap for Ford fans back then, it was just the common passenger car BB.  The 427 had been around in various forms for quite some time and 428 CJ came out in 68.  Since then, the 428 has shown up in a variety of cars, none of which would be scared of a 383 and most wouldn't worry about a 440 either.  CJs still hold NHRA records.  Bottom line, these guys are feeding you some great info and if you go with a 445 built like they are saying then your Mustang will kick the snot out of everything you've talked about including your Challenger.  BTW, your Mustang can be built to run rings around your challenger on a road course as well, the after-market for those cars is staggering!  I know you're gonna have a blast with this project.

I totally realize that Ford had plenty going on in the performance game!  I'm just saying that it must have been a disappointment when they didn't bring their "A" game to the table.  It's as if though they were checking the box "put a big block in the mustang," but didn't consider what the competition was bringing.  I'm guessing there was also some corporate edict that wouldn't allow them to come to the table with something as potent as the Shelby's had to offer.  Then again, maybe not, as the CJ came out later in the GT.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Educate Me on Roller Cams and the FE
« on: November 17, 2013, 10:39:05 AM »
Maybe this will illustrate.
First cam is a 282S solid flat tappet - 236 degrees at .050 and .571 gross lift
Second cam is a custom hydraulic roller 234/240@.050 and .594/.598 gross lift
Obviously the roller is a bit larger - -but close enough for comparison



Excellent!  Thank you for posting that.  I love how the curves are smooth and that torque curve....lots of area underneath, making torque early and holding on to it throughout the range.  This comparison was against a solid flat tappet cam, so I can only imagine the difference between the Hyd roller and hyd flat tappet cam is even greater.

Thanks again....

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Advice for '67 Mustang Fastback
« on: November 16, 2013, 10:51:58 PM »
If you have the Edelbrocks, a Performer RPM, a 750/780 carb and a set of headers you should be able to give the Runner a good scare.  I used to be able to hunt 383 cars with similar stuff back in the proverbial day.  Just stay away from the 440 cars until you get the stroker and some cam in there - darn Mopes 440s are pretty strong on the street....experience talkin' here...

You know.....I was born in 1970, but if I was driving back in '67-'68, I can understand the frustration the Ford contingent must have had with 383 Mopars and 396 Chevy's out there, and they get blessed with a passenger car version of the 390.  Shouldn't have to add all kinds of aftermarket goodies just to be able to hang with a 383 or 396.  Can't wait for that stroker!  I've only had the car a couple of weeks, but I my head is swimming with ideas ( and with thoughts of needed repairs....steering, cowl....damn!).  I'm even thinking of switching from a TKO to a T56 Magnum after reading up on the TKO some more.

As for the 440 Mopars....agreed!  One night back in the '88 or so, my cousin and I were on the way back to his folks home (he was in high school and I was in college) in his 383 Roadrunner. We were exiting from I-40 to I-25 about 1:30 in the morning.  There was nobody on the road except for us, and a '69 Charger R/T 440.  We exited onto I-25 perfectly in line with the Charger.  My cousin goosed it...just a quick stab.  The Roadrunner lurched forward.  The Charger responded and stabbed his...it lurched much quicker and harder.  Then he punched it and left us like we were standing still.  My cousin, who was the "leader" of his little clique, and generally pretty fond of himself.....suddenly felt like a 16 year old kid that just got taught a lesson, as he should have.  I'm a huge Mopar fan as well....would love to have a '70 or '71 'Cuda.

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Advice for '67 Mustang Fastback
« on: November 16, 2013, 07:23:35 PM »
Barry R at Survival is a known straight-shooter. If you talk to him, he'll be happy to talk parts and $$ and give you guidance. There are others but I have been able to trust his information for close to 15 years.

KS

That's definitely in my plans!  I've only been on the forum a day, and have already gotten more than I could have hoped for. Everyone here is great!

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Advice for '67 Mustang Fastback
« on: November 16, 2013, 07:22:30 PM »
Would swapping a set of Edelbrock heads on the existing engine be beneficial, or are they better suited to a higher end build?  If viable on the stock engine, then the header issue would be solved, albeit with a significant cash outlay for the heads.

The distributor is the stock points distributor....would swapping to an MSD or the like be a good move on the current engine?  If so, which one?  MSD Billet?  MSD ready to run?  (what's the difference between those two anyway?  I know the ready to run doesn't need the box, but otherwise, is the ready to run comparable to the billet with the box?). 

I don't want a race car, but I want it to be strong.  I want to line up to my cousins 383 Roadrunner and be able to know that he will have a hard time keeping up with me.....either on the strip, or on a road trip! :)

Good questions

1 - Swapping a set of Edelbrocks now, wouldn't be bad, but you'd also have to make sure you had the proper flat tappet springs.  In addition, it would likely drop compression slightly.  However, if you had the budget to do that, yes you could.  Combining the heads, headers, good exhaust and an RPM intake and nice Holley would give you some gains.  Not incredible, but it would make more power.  If the 383 Road Runner is anything more than stock, I would not expect you to beat it without going inside the motor, but my hunch is it would be close depending on his build. 

One very good thing about that plan is you don't have to worry about breaking the top exhaust manifold bolts.

2 - I recommend the MSD, the ready to run is good, but having a box is better because you can get a rev limiter and you get multi spark at low rpm. You can always go back and add a box though  Even with those though, you need to recurve, because they deliver with slow curves.  The curve doesnt really effect peak HP, but it makes a hell of a difference in part throttle response.

3 - Remember, a vehicle is a sum of its systems, this stuff isn't cheap.  There is an old saying, fast, reliable and cheap, (if you don't spend the cash) pick any two.   

Last thing, 383 Mopars aren't the fastest things, but they run well and respond well to aftermarket parts, so don't expect to dethrone him easily.

Thanks again for the help!  I noticed the MSD ready to run doesn't have a vacuum advance.  Is this a disadvantage when compared to the MSD with a 6 or 7 box?  I apologize for the newbie questions, but as I mentioned in the first post...I am not a mechanic!  I wish I had the skills and knowledge you guys have!

My cousins Roadrunner.....yeah, it's a cool car.  My uncle bought it when he got back from Vietam.  The '71s were hitting the lots, so he got the '70 for something like $2,500 or so brand new.  It's pretty well optioned....console, pistol grip, air grabber, etc.  He had the 383 rebuilt some years ago, but it was a stock rebuild.  It runs really well...a great "touring" engine.  Doesn't do anything great, but does everything well.  A really well rounded engine.  I want to show them that the blue oval can hang!  I'm guessing that when I can ultimately afford the 445 combo, combined with a several hundred pound weight advantage, I should be able to show him the tail lights! ;)

Pages: [1] 2