Yeah, it was one of the screws on the rotor.  Brand new FAST dual-sync. Didn’t think to check it. Will definitely be putting some loctite on.

Drive it.

Drive it everywhere, take the kids to boy scouts.  Drive 50 miles in one direction and 50 miles back, try to improve fuel economy while not losing any power.  Get it really stupidly hot racing around then sit at a redlight for 2 minutes.  Go off into the country roads and tear them up and then pull into a gas station and park the car while the fuel boils and try to restart the engine.
Drive it 40 miles to the drag strip and get really horrible times because you have street tires and probably 500ft lbs of torque, then drive it home.
Let the car idle for 30 minutes as see how hot it gets on the hottest day.
Anytime a little issue pops up, fix it.

That's how I do it

This is what I've been trying to do.  The chassis dyno helped with most aspects of the tune but now I'm playing around with cold start, warm start, seeing how it responds to different cruising parameters etc...  From my perspective the initial dyno tune at Barry's was a great baseline to make sure we were in the ballpark.  The chassis tune got me closer with all the variables of exhaust, intake restrictions, etc...  I feel that WOT is about as good as it will get.  Now I feel I'm 90% there and just filling in around the edges.

I bet the heat in the cramped mustang engine compartment steal a few horses to

this is the other reason I like the 67 Shelby hood - heat extractors.

20% is what we usually allow so 23% is well within reason.

I was hoping to be on the low end of that scale, lol

445 stroker built by Barry R. 495 Hp / 545 ft-lbs on Barry’s engine dyno

Best we could do on the chassis dyno was 365 Hp / 442 ft-lbs

I was shocked but the chassis tuner was not the least bit surprised.

Do those numbers indicate a breathing problem? Wondering if 2.5” exhaust was a huge compromise

Other factors:
Vintage Air
Power Steering
FPA headers
TKO 600
9” 3.70 Tru-Trac
Aluminum driveshaft.

Thanks Jay!  Definitely will help to see where it is on the graph while driving and play around in real-time - I'll give that a shot. 

Any thoughts on the A/F numbers? I feel like I could lean it out a bit at low loads and idle, but not sure how to tell if I'm going the right direction or not...

WOT Barry set on the dyno and it was rock solid so I won't mess with that - its more around the transitions and cruise / idle I want to optimize.

Attached the latest set of Spark and A/F tables after some playing around

Hey guys,

Hoping I can get another set of eyes on my FAST A/F targets and Spark table

Relevant specs (let me know if I missed anyting):

445 stroker (built by Barry at Survival)
(ported) Edelbrock Performer RPM top end
Fast XFI Sportsman EFI system
Fast Dual Sync Distributor
Cam specs: only known to Barry
Dyno'd at 495 hp and 541 ft. lbs.
TKO 600 with .64 OD
9" with 3.70's

I know cam specs are important but guessing that a ~500 hp 445 stroker would have a reasonably narrow range for A/F and spark?

Also, I know V/E table is critical but I will tune (and/or let the ECU tune) the base V/E tables to minimize O2 correction factors but need the right A/F targets to start with.

Attached are the current spark and A/F tables.  The top of the tables were tuned by Barry during the dyno pulls so I think those are pretty close.  Looking more at the cruise ranges and spark table transitions.

Definitely an EFI newbie so look forward to any guidance you guys can provide!

Thank guys!