Nut to mention that's the top bearing in the cap. No way it ran like that. The oil singer on the crank has no where to go.

Interesting pictures Doug thanks for sharing.

Has the idea that what ever it was that clogged the filter in the first place, was failing, and the crushed filter was simply a symptom?

I would submit that a oil filter in a common modern designed engine, being well ventilated(PCV) with low(modern) blow by, would have a fairly easy job. Some modern cars go two or 3 oil changes before changing the filter(per the manufacturer), and have a much smaller filter than a PH8A.

I agree that FRAM isn't the best filter. But I think its a symptom of failure, not the cause. If you disagree, what would a better designed filter done in this case to save the engine?

In aviation we have many filters and they all have a bypass. The theory being that dirty oil is better than no oil, and used to get you to the ground only, no to continue service. I have yet to see a filter bypass tripped when the component didn't require replacement based on inspection and oil samples. I would imagine that if a sample was taken on this engine it would have shown the failure was imminent. Now would it have gone 7 or 8 months with a better filter in complete bypass? Possibly, but the writing is on the wall once you have so much debris that it clogs a large filter like a PH8A.

Now, filter surface area, media quality, and micron filtering are other reasons to buy a better than FRAM filter, and there are plenty of them out there.

Thanks for the replies fellas!

I did some more research and it seems there is a place called Suncoast Racecars(not Suncoast creations) that has a pretty good rep. They made the body for MegaFord if you are familiar with that car. I'll give them a call and see what the wait time and prices and weight savings would be.

More inner fenders and core support are in great shape, of course being a 57 the fenders need some work, and about 150 bucks in patches in each, so I think cost wise it might be a wash. I want to keep it looking stock, but a fiberglass tilt front wouldn't be noticed unless it was open.

I think the one piece would be less hassle in the long run, as opposed to trying to get fiberglass fenders to match up to the rest of the parts I have.

I was surprised when I took it all apart to find the drivers side fender had 2 shims in the rear by the cowl, and the passenger side had over an inch of shims!

interesting, were they any good?

make an offer! I need beer money haha

Used Isky 256 Supercam with the lifters. Lifters are in the order in which they were removed and will be shipped in that order for your installation. Great low RPM cam, worked just like Iskys description in my 410.


256 Supercam 1500-4800rpm

Economy plus more mid-range power for highway towing/hauling applications - high or low
compression. Smooth idle

50 obo plus shipping.

Heads were just pulled off. Complete. Date codes are 0G6 and 0G7. They are complete with stock valve springs. They check flat on all surfaces, no broken off bolts or stripped holes. Have hard exhaust seats, no sunk valves. Will need some new valves as the tips are worn and of course the corresponding valve job. They have not been magged, but I drove it into the shop and never had any issues with overheating ect. They have about 10K miles on them since last magged.


I'd PREFER not to ship these, but I can, it would just take a day or so to get them properly packaged. Located in 37040, will drive to meet you within a reasonable distance.

Also open to interesting trades. Things I am looking for are:

3.89 9 inch gears
Trac loc
C6 mild stall convertor
428 balancer