I don't like using checking springs when I'm checking P/V clearance or checking geometry.  I think it skews the results significantly.

Morel does not offer a checking lifter, but you have a few options:

1.  Use a solid roller lifter.  You can order one single lifter, such as a Comp 838-1 to check.
2.  Make something that fits on the top of the Morel lifter so that the plunger does not move. 
3.  Order a single pair of Morel lifters and modify it so that the plunger will not move. 

Keep in mind that you can use whatever you want when you're checking P/V clearance or checking geometry.  However, when you go to measure pushrod length, everything needs to be in the same configuration as it will be when the engine will be running.  So, make sure that you're using the Morel hydraulic roller lifter with no modifications.

When you check pushrod length, make sure the lifter you're working on is on the heel of the lobe.  If you're not familiar with the EVO method, I can explain it.  That will insure that the lifter is on the heel.  Don't rely on the TDC method. 

Don't forget to include lifter preload.

*Ideally* with T&D rockers, you want to end up with the adjuster somewhere around one turn in from all the way out.  If you read their instructions, there's an oil passage in the adjuster and if you go outside of the limits, you can block off oil flow.

Another vote for Digikey.  Or Allied Electronics.

We bake/tumble all of our cast iron blocks and heads.   Most shops that I know of do as well.  It makes them look brand new, inside and out.  A couple rides in the jet wash afterwards get them clean. 

I have had issues with getting glass beaded parts clean in the past, so I mainly do vapor blasting on aluminum parts now.   

It does go in from the back, but leaves a lip on the front side of the timing cover, big enough to locate off of. 

Quote from: blykins on December 27, 2025, 09:38:58 PM

What's nice about the tool is that it locates in the seal bore and centers on the crank.  The timing cover doesn't have opportunity to dip down under its own weight while you're tightening the bolts down.  It will also open your eyes to the fact that the oil pan mating surface on the timing cover isn't always going to be perfectly flush with the block's oil pan mating surface. 

For a guy who builds FE engines all the time, the tool may make sense.
Except for the cast iron covers, I've never seen a cover that was so heavy as to distort the seal. They're pretty stiff. And if you're adjusting the cover to be flush with the pan rail, then you really shouldn't be messing with engines in the first place. You would have to physically force the cover down to be flush. Common sense goes a long way.

Yeah, it's mainly just so that I can remove any chance of human error from it. 

A good lobe catalog will show a theoretical checking duration and a duration at the valve.  With SOHC engines, the cam is degreed at the valve, not on the lobe like a traditional engine.

Overhead cams are always measured at the valve.  In addition, the low rocker ratio generally demands a lot more duration to fill the cylinders.  I usually run anywhere from 12-15 degrees more on an FE SOHC head than I do with my wedge FE heads.

The PA bells that I've used were cast aluminum I think.  The Quicktime bells are steel.

RM-9056 would be FE to C4.

They are discontinued, I just checked.