Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - blykins

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 356
1
I'm sure Barry was just trying to be helpful, but go back and read what he wrote. To someone not well versed in all this stuff it could have been taken as a spring recommendation. This is why I asked him the question I did. He hasn't come back to clarify his post and I'm not going to read into his post as to intent.

Btw some builders like when a customer supplies the parts as then they do not have to warrantee them.  Personally I never cared if they do, but if I don't like the parts I won't use them.

Who do you build for?

2
Widening the LSA would kill the overlap. 

In addition, overlap at seat timing really doesn’t carry as much weight as .050” overlap.

3
If the block isn't drilled to oil the lifters, most likely you can get away with that, as long as the lifter is stable in the bore at base circle and the cam hasn't been ground through the heat treat.

Most of your FE lifters will have the oil band in the same spot, plus or minus, but you may be able to try a SBF lifter or similar. 

4
I was speaking generally about shelf cams seeming to tend toward "idle sound" seems to be less of a market for one that sounds close to stock. We got "rattler" and "thumper" i propose a new line "sleeper" ...  8)

Doesn't "high performance" dictate a lumpy idle?

If we go back aways Isky ground everything on a 108 LSA and kept the intake and exhaust duration the same.  Said it gave the best performance.  Factory stuff like the 427 SFT cams had a bunch of duration and a 114 or 119 LSA.  Now take the CJ.  cam.  That lobe was used on the 351C CJ, 390GT,428CJ,429CJ and a few others.  Amazing how an OEM decided those lobes would work in all those different engines.

As I said you really have to look at value event and really really best is if you can look at the lift profile.  You can have two cams with the same LSA and duration, but be a lot different.

I would say that high performance doesn't always dictate a nasty idle sound.  You can have an absolute mild cam with a really good cylinder head and still make a lot of power. 

It's not just the OEM that makes universal cams, all the cam companies have been doing that for decades.   The same cam that's available for an FE is also available for a SBM or a Buick.  I'm just thankful that we've made leaps and bounds in technology since the 60's.  Unfortunately, a lot of guys still think a single pattern on a 108 is the ticket.  Actually, most people focus way too much on the LSA period.  It's like it's some magical number or something.

I had a guy email for a custom cam and said, "I don't care how you grind it, as long as it's on a 104 LSA". 

Show me that you don't know anything without telling me that you don't know anything.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Those "new" summit fe HYD roller cams.
« on: July 25, 2026, 06:24:36 PM »
Another interesting quote:
"Lobe intensity is aggressive without being hard on the valvetrain, which is specifically designed for stability at high-RPM with modern Beehive and lightweight small-diameter dual-springs"

Good buddy of mine with a Cam Doctor put one of the Summit cams on it.  He said the intake side of the ramp is soft while it slams the valve down hard on the other side. 

Some guy is gonna put one of these in a factory headed/valved FE and tear some stuff up.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear For My Comp Roller Cam
« on: July 21, 2026, 05:00:14 PM »
I sell hundreds of cams a year, most are ground by Comp, and all FE roller cams are billet steel. 

I always recommend steel gears and I always use steel gears on the engines I build here.

I’d run a steel gear.

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear For My Comp Roller Cam
« on: July 21, 2026, 04:21:22 PM »
If it's a roller cam, as Chilly says, it needs to be a steel gear.   No bronze, no cast iron.

8
Permatex Copper Coat spray will work. 

9
Those springs will be too light for an FE hydraulic roller.   

Contrary to their ad, there are other beehive spring options if you absolutely just can't machine the heads, but if the heads are off the vehicle, I'd do it right and have the steps cut down around the guides and swap to a modern Viton valve seal size. 

If that step is not removed, you're stuck with having to find a conical/beehive spring to fit (narrows down the spring choice and you may be finding a cam to fit the spring, which is not optimal) and also a hardened shim to keep the spring from chewing on the head.  A spring locator will not sit down flush.

If you have a mill, you can do this yourself with a pilot-guided cutter that cuts both the guide and the step down.  Otherwise, I'd have a shop do it.  It's a quick job, maybe if you called them ahead of time, you can have them do it while you're there.




10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Muffler selection
« on: July 20, 2026, 05:54:43 AM »
I'm a Dynomax man. 

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: TFS Heads Rocker Shaft Oil Feed.
« on: July 17, 2026, 11:59:44 AM »
Restrict them if you're oiling through the heads.

The hole is appropriately sized for a 12-24 tap.  Run a tap down the hole about 1/2" or so, then get yourself some short set screws, drill an .080" hole in them and screw them in.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Push rods for a fresh 445 build
« on: July 16, 2026, 01:00:53 PM »
Need to measure.

You can go to Smith Brothers for push-sticks.  Get a good pushrod length checker that has the correct ends:  5/16" ball on lifter end and 3/8" cup on rocker end. 

Get your length(s), then call them and ask if they want an OAL measurement or bottom of cup measurement.  If BOC, put a ball bearing in the cup, measure the overall length, then subtract the diameter of the ball bearing.

Pay attention to where Harland Sharp wants the adjuster placement when you measure and make sure the cup on your length checker does not contact the rocker arm body at full lift.

Am I missing something?  Wouldn't you add the diameter of the ball bearing?

No sir.  A bottom of cup measurement is the distance from the end of the lifter end of the pushrod to the bottom of the cup.  If you put a ball bearing in the cup, then measure OAL, you would need to subtract the diameter of the ball bearing to get the bottom of cup measurement.

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Push rods for a fresh 445 build
« on: July 16, 2026, 11:06:21 AM »
For a hydraulic roller, I'd do something like a 5/16" .080" wall. 

You do not need any taper at this level.

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Carb help from the experts
« on: July 15, 2026, 10:11:43 AM »
If it was truly 10:1 A/F ratio, you'd be rolling coal (and washing the oil off the cylinders....)

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: Push rods for a fresh 445 build
« on: July 15, 2026, 08:22:23 AM »
Need to measure.

You can go to Smith Brothers for push-sticks.  Get a good pushrod length checker that has the correct ends:  5/16" ball on lifter end and 3/8" cup on rocker end. 

Get your length(s), then call them and ask if they want an OAL measurement or bottom of cup measurement.  If BOC, put a ball bearing in the cup, measure the overall length, then subtract the diameter of the ball bearing.

Pay attention to where Harland Sharp wants the adjuster placement when you measure and make sure the cup on your length checker does not contact the rocker arm body at full lift.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 356