Quote from: FEsledpuller on August 04, 2013, 08:39:19 PM

Are all FE clutches the same for cars and trucks? Looks like the few aftermarket clutches I have seen just say 11".

Your opening another can of worms here.
What 4 speed are you talking about?
You can get some pretty nice 11" clutches.
Ford used 11" and 12" and they were different between cars and trucks. Small spline and big spline, even different bells.
For your huff'in and puff'in  390ish yanker your going to need a after market set up. Plan on spending more.

The trans would be whatever 4 speed would have came in a mid 70's ford highboy pickup. I work at a parts store and showed some of the clutch sets had the same part numbers between cars and trucks, but a couple were different. It also shows a diaphragm type and lever type. From a quick internet search it looks like I probably have the lever style in there and should stick with it. Aftermarket clutch set in this style seem to be in the $300-400 dollar range. I was looking to pick one up soon but got to thinking about the clutch break in period. The truck is not registered or insured for the street, and most info I have found shows a recommended 500 mile easy period. This is not doable for me, although I do live out in the country and could do a 20 minute or so drive around the block, constantly engaging and disengaging the clutch, but that's about it. So how can I break in this clutch before competition? I will also mention the first competition this clutch will see will be behind a mostly stock 390 in the stock class. This is in a month and a half from now. After that I plan to start this motor build.

Can anyone tell me if I get the deep 8 quart oil pan will I be okay with not doing any type of oil restriction to the heads? I figured this would allow a few quarts in the top end while keeping plenty of oil in the bottom for the bearings.

Still have these? If so PM me.

Haha nice. That definitely makes sense to go with a common BBC rod. It probably would even be cheaper buying a Chevy rod and machining vs what a forged h beam FE rod would cost. I have a machinist buddy who happens to owe me some favors so the machining part is no issue. I guess he would be able to tell what kind of custom pistons I would need?

I also need some recommendations on what clutch to use in the 4 speed behind this motor

Block has been sonic checked. The rotating assembly has not been put together yet because I am waiting to choose pistons. I wanted to decide the pistons after I knew what the heads cc's would be so I can get the compression into a range I would want. With race gas I will want a decent amount.

I'm surprised Barry's heads didn't make 500hp. Looking at blueF100fe's build he got 450/450 from ported factory heads on pump gas..... Although you did say streetable. This truck will not see the street.

I was thinking of ordering the intake comparo but would you say its better than Max Performance Ford FE book by Cartech?

There is no head or cam restriction. The only intake restriction is it can't be a sheet metal intake. Race gas is allowed, just no injectable like water, meth, nitrous, etc.

I'm planning to build my 390 in my 4x4 F100 for the local truck pulls. Its going in the Pro Street class which has a 408 cubic inch limit, so a stroker is not an option. The engine is getting a .060 overbore to bring it to 401 cubic inches. I'm wanting to know what I would need to make competitive power. The small block strokers seem to get to the 500 HP range without going too crazy, but I'm hoping to have a torque advantage over them. What kind of power numbers are achievable with an all motor 401 FE without turning crazy rpm's?