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Messages - 1967 XR7 GT

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1
Thanks for posting this i have a few 3 barrels i always wanted to try out. I remember Barry R doing some dyno work years ago and the 3 barrel beat them all except a dominator. So just drilling the hole from .040 to .070 is the first step?

Thats correct .040 to .070. 2 holes under where the power valve screws in. The Dominators replaced the 3 Barrels I believe it was 69, thats why no further development was done on the 3 Barrels. And  Holley has the 1050 @ actually 1030 cfm.

I remember that Dyno run, I think I remember one of the other carbs being an HP 950.

Here's the link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F38HumC41uY

2
FE Technical Forum / Holley 3 Barrel 950 & 1050 CFM Tuning
« on: Today at 06:26:11 AM »
Basic Info: 66-67 Holley introduced the 3 Barrel for public consumption. In 1964 Chrysler had Holley build them a carb list #3085  for their Nascar Hemi motors and this was the Holley 3 Barrel. There has been no info as to tuning issues with the Nascar version.

Now, 66-67 with the introduction of the 3 Barrel to the public, some how emissons became involved and the carbs were tuned to meet those standards. In this case the Emisson standards seem to go towards leaning these carbs out. I don't know if Holley ever tested these carbs or if the changes were just done on paper.

For such a large carb Holley had installed .040" PVCR's in the primary metering block #5615 to lean the primary out to meet Emission Standards, resulting in a flat spot, the initial fix was to go larger jets which caused it to run pig rich, so now this is just the primary issue, now the 2ndaries were also lean and at wide open throttle there was a substantial bog from being to lean, an idea came up for a fix, which was to remove the vaccum canister and make the primary and secondary one to one, so gears were made, and a primary shooter was extended to the secondaries for a fuel shot to richen up the secondary during the lean peroid during blade opening.

Previously, everything done were just Band Aids and didn't NECESSARILY fix any of the issues.

The Nascar's 3 Barrel metering block #4328 came with .093' PVCR's and they had emulsion tubes in the main well reducing fuel flow, so the larger PVCR was needed.

Now, the newer 3 Barrels came with metering Block # 5615 and had a .040" PVCR, and does not have emulsions tubes in the main well, and the primary side of the 3 Barrel is basicly the same as the primary side of the Holley 850 Double Pumper, so tuning is about the same. The PVCR's in the metering plate of the 850 DP are .070" and also do not have emulsion tubes in the main well.

So, to tune the 66-67 and newer 3 Barrels, you open the PVCR's on the #5616 metering plates from .040" to .070" and proceede to tune the 3 Barrel primary's the same as you would an 850 DP consiting of the fuel mixer screws, the transition circuit, primary jets and power valves. There are plenty of tutorials on line for tuning an 850 DP for referencing if you have questions. I'll add more later concerning the tuning of the 2ndarys, actually half of it s getting the primaries tuned.


 


3
FE Technical Forum / Re: Holley Prep for Dichromateing
« on: September 08, 2026, 05:15:51 PM »


And yes, that is why I told the customer I would not use a metering block.

For the gentlemans sake since he's spent some money on his carb, and would like for him to be able to use the carb, (or anyone else who has who either has a 950 or 1050 cfm 3 barrel and wants to run them,) and as long as his carb has the correct primary metering plate #5615, if it hasn't had the PVCR modified yet, that would mean the PVCR are currently at .040" which will cause primary tuning issues, such as a bog, then he'll up the jets then it will run pig rich, he will need to open the PVCRs up to .070" the same as the 850 DP which come with .070" PVCRs, which basicly what the primary side of the 3 barrel is.

Basically, with the corrected PVCR you would tune the primary side of a 3 barrel holley the same as you would a 850 DP.

In 66-67 when these carbs came back out, they were tuned for smog, thats why the .040" PVCRs. The 1st 3 barrels came out in 64, Chrysler had the them made for the Nascar HEMI, I don't know if they were 950 cfm or 1050 cfm I've never seen one so don't know what size they were, but had no unusual tuning issues, the primary metering blocks on those were #4328, and I have one I picked up off Ebay and those have a .093" PVCR, the larger PVCRs were needed due to the restriction caused by the emulsion tubes in the main well reducing fuel flow, which I am able to see the end thru the channel restriction.

1st pic is of a 5615 metering block, with a .040"pvcr.
2nd pic is of a 4328 metering block, with a .093"pvcr

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Holley Prep for Dichromateing
« on: September 08, 2026, 06:01:06 AM »
. . . . . . . dull, flat colorless, lacking any Iridescence, crap job.

. . . . . .  as can be seen it's just a flat green color, will try later to provide a better complete pic of the carb.

     Though the coloration of your carburetor might not be what you were hoping for, it actually isn't unlike that of what many having come out of Holley looked like, "originally".  The finish as delivered by Holley wasn't very consistent, and the individual componentry items were often different in coloring, and this only became more so as the decades progressed.   :o

      And with this observation,  I'm of the opinion that some of the quite bright finishes as being executed today of "refinished/restored" examples as has become expected, being required in the industry to provide the impression of a quality execution, but is not representative of mostly that as which Holley provided , back then.   :)   

      Scott.

Here is an example of color from back then, it's my NOS Holley 4604-S 1050 CFM 3 Barrel, the color has faded some I would think since the late sixties code 973 Year 1969, month 7, in the 3 week, over 50 years.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Holley Prep for Dichromateing
« on: September 08, 2026, 05:31:00 AM »
Richard, wet blasting is a process.
Vapor honing is a specific manufacturer.

Kinda like Kleenex is a name for all tissues.


In this case the blaster either used really coarse media or the carb sat too long and oxidized, both can cause your issues.

I tried to clear this up as I don’t care for misinformation.
Good luck.

Vapor honing and vapor blasting are often used interchangeably, but they have subtle differences. Vapor honing typically involves a higher water-to-abrasive ratio, resulting in a gentler finish, while vapor blasting may use a more abrasive approach for tougher materials.

As I said before, my carb was done in a batch of carbs by my carb guy, the other carbs he put thru his cleaning process which was - a 2 stage bead blast. Medium grit with high pressure, then fine glass bead with low pressure, my carb was not put thru this process because everything was already clean from the Vapor Honing. Out of all the carbs he colored that day mine was the only one that came out as it did.

The issue I had, the carb guy never notified me of the coloring issue, he just sent my carb back the way it was.

I've provided no misinformation, only facts.

But, Drew since your so experienced and know it all, I've got nothing more to say.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Holley Prep for Dichromateing
« on: September 07, 2026, 09:17:57 AM »
I did some research, what I had done was called "Vapor Honing", there is also "Vapor Blasting" "Wet Blasting,"  and "Dustless Blasting" these processes are all different.

So, I need to up date my warning: Do not do Vapor Honing to your Holley Carb before  coloring. As to Vapor, Wet, and Dustless Blasting, you'll have to do your own research as to  the coloring results after, I've not used those processes so I don't know their results.

My Intake Manifold I had used Vapor Honing not Vapor Blasting, and I now remember I had Vapor Honing done to protect the Manifold, as was demostrated to me I took dirty grease and wiped a spot on the Manifold, then wiped it off with a rag, no discoloring, stain or any indication that grease had been on the manifold. If grease had been wiped on a Manifold that had been bead or sand blasted, there would be a stain where it was applied.
 



7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Holley Prep for Dichromateing
« on: September 07, 2026, 04:40:38 AM »
I just did this one.
Wet blasting isn’t the cause of your issue.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1JoPJyntVR/?

Who did the work?

I have his card somewhere, It was someone you recommended, I had asked you 1st but you didn't have time, said you were backed up and had to go back to work, the carb work were side jobs when you were home ? This was a while ago.

I sent it to be colored, have the vent tubes pulled, and drill & tap the main body air bleeds for screw in bleeds.

I looked at your link of your colored carb, I assume the carb you pictured at the end was the carb before the color, it had a metering plate on the 2ndary side, which is a problem, which I am sure your aware of, the air bleeds on a 3 barrel 2ndary are in a different location so a stock metering plate won't work correctly, if that carb ran that way it had big problems, and could never have been tuned, or at least not the 2ndary side.

I was playing around modifying a metering plate to work on the 2ndary side to beable to run 4 corner idles, don't remember if I finished it but was close. But I did get the aftermaket metering plate for 4160 carbs for the 3 barrel 2ndarys to add jets just in case.


8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Holley Prep for Dichromateing
« on: September 06, 2026, 05:15:37 PM »
There is a whole 300 page book that I could write about this.


Why are you certain that variable was the issue?

My carb is a Holley 1030 cfm 3 barrel. The guy who did the coloring had me wait after he received my carb, he wanted to wait till he had enough carbs to do a run. I guess he didn't like to color one at a time.

He had said my carb was the only one the coloring turned out this way out of the run, and was the only one vapor blasted.

I had my intake vapor blasted before my carb, and the finish is different, including the feel and even the look which is a flat dull aluminum, which is exactly how the coloring came out

9
FE Technical Forum / Holley Prep for Dichromateing
« on: September 06, 2026, 04:15:39 AM »
When I was going to have my carb colored I asked about prep, was told it needed to be clean, degreased, or there would be a cleaning charge, so I had it vapor blasted.

Warning: Do not Vapor Blast Holley Carburators.

Dichromateing after VaporBlasting, provides very poor results. The Dichromateing comes out a dull, flat colorless, lacking any Iridescence, crap job.

You can ask how I know.  It might have been ok? if I had prept it, wire wheel, wire brush, scotchbright, just something removing the Vapor Blasting surface results.   

I, provided a couple of pics of the carb I had done, as can be seen it's just a flat green color, will try later to provide a better complete pic of the carb.


10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Guess the horsepower
« on: August 26, 2026, 07:49:12 AM »

So basically it is a 488 cube, 11 to 1, pump gas, not ideal cam, 1050 carb. I will post numbers after some guesses.

After the results of 723.1 HP, 638 tq and state a bit of an over achiever., why would you then say "not ideal cam" ?

I see a combination that worked and made really good numbers. What were the heads flow numbers ?

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Carb help from the experts
« on: July 13, 2026, 10:32:29 PM »
You can ask questions here also, I've gotten alot of good info from here:     Racing Fuel Systems   

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: My Tunnel Port Heads Build
« on: May 25, 2026, 10:45:05 AM »
I, have been collecting the parts needed to complete my TP Heads. I went with Manley 10 deg Titanium Retaines, 10 deg Titanium Locs, Spring Locators and .015" shims. I, went with PSI Nascar Cup Springs. They were out of stock when I called, I had to wait 6 weeks for the next run, which just showed last week. I chose to go with the ML (Max Lfe) treatment, A proprietary, multi-step surface enhancement process that has been proven to increase spring endurance.

The heads are being built to meet the requirements of a billet core solid flat tappet cam I picked up, spec's are 265/278 @ .050", 108 LSA, with a .715" gross lif. The PSI springs will be set up with around a 1.935" installed height with about 224 pds closed and an open pressure of around 534 pds at about 1.240" .090" Distance to Coil Bind, with a .695" valve lift after lash.

2pcs Molnar 7.000 connecting rods for BBC CH7000VTB-T8-A for nitrous,  Buxton Compressor

Rod Length 6.8750 :  10.150 DH  0 Deck  1.150 Piston CH Stroke 4.250
Rod Length 6.8950 - 10.170" DH  0 Deck  1.150 Piston CH Stroke 4.250
Rod Length 6.800 - 10.150" DH  0 Deck  1.2250 Piston CH Stroke 4.250
Rod Length 6.800 - 10.170" DH  0 Deck  1.2450 Piston CH Stroke 4.250    
Rod Length 6.500 - 10.170" DH  0 Deck  1.6075 Piston CH Stroke 4.125
Rod Length 6.500 - 10.150" DH  0 Deck  1.5875 Piston CH Stroke 4.125
Rod Length 6.500 - 10.150" DH  0 Deck  1.7600 Piston CH Stroke 3.780
Rod Length 6.500 - 10.170" DH  0 Deck  1.7800 Piston CH Stroke 3.780

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: starters
« on: May 09, 2026, 06:53:42 AM »

RobbMc starters are an option, and add the Pinion Support.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Block Fill
« on: April 15, 2026, 06:06:30 PM »
.

There are no stupid questions, only stupid people who delete them,

15
Vendor Classifieds / Re: Both are sold.
« on: March 10, 2026, 12:12:20 PM »
It's not really a big deal, it is what it is. Flow #'s are
just a guide, something showing a potential.

A Dyno shows results to a degree.

As to the lower flow #'s, I figured that would happen
due to the larger Int valve. But I was also glad that I
was correct about the top end flow.

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