Pretty sure I have it figured out. First of all Jay was right, when checked with the centerline method the cams are back in the 'normal' range on the sprockets. Secondly I realized that the mistake I was making was that I forgot to factor in rocker arm ratio into my calculations. If you take .050 (cam lift) and multiply it by 1.3 (rocker ratio) you get .070. When checked at .070 at the valve retainer the specs come in a lot closer, and also correlate to the centerline as measured. This makes sense because the readings I was getting were 'short' on both opening and closing making me think that my cam was not what it was supposed to be according to the cam card. Because of the design of the cams and rockers it is really not practical with the equipment at my disposal (dial indicators) to accurately measure cam lift at the cam. Lift at the valve retainer is much easier to measure as the motion is in a straight line, as opposed to the cam end where it is swinging through an arc. On a pushrod motor it can and should be checked at the lifter because it has the correct angle to the cam lobe. The tech guy at Comp just kept saying 'it's checked at the cam' over and over. Again I don't think he understood this cam layout. Hope all this makes sense. Thanks again to Jay and all who responded. Randy

Question for Jay and or other Cammer experts. I'm mocking up my Cammer engine and checking piston to valve clearance and need to know where to take measurements, in order to achieve accurate readings for cam timing. I have a copy of the Ford publication but as anyone who has read it knows it only gives a method for checking stock Ford cams. The cams are Comp Cams #138-000-9 R& L respectively. Here's the deal, I have verified TDC and when I go to check the timing events @ .050 as per Comps cam card with a dial indicator the readings I get don't match the specs given. I have my indicators set on the valve retainer, as I have been told that is where it is checked on this engine. I have tried it both with the specified lash, .020 and with 0 lash and no matter what it doesn't  come out correctly. Based on what I know about the subject and other experience with overhead cam engines, I know it will run as I have them set, I just want to be accurate. Also, in order to get the cams set at what I believe is 'straight -up' both cams end up advanced as far as I can get them on the sprockets with the dowel holes. The timing chain supplied didn't have any markings on the links to match the timing dots on the gears. I'm wondering if I am one tooth off between the main drive sprocket and the left side cam. Anyway thanks in advance for your help.  BTW tech guy at Comp was worthless, I don't think he even knew what a Cammer is. Thanks again Randy

Putting together a couple of Cammers, looking for the following:PLATE-ENGINE FRONT COVER #C5AE-6B054,POINTER-TIMING #C4AE 6023-C,WATER PUMP #C4AE-8501-J,TIMING CHAIN IDLER  #C4AE-6A275-A, TIMING CHAIN ADJUSTING IDLER #C4AE-6A279-A, LOWER CHAIN VIBRATION DAMPER #C4AE-6A292, UPPER CHAIN VIBRATION DAMPER #C4AE-6284-A. A buyer for any/all cammer parts. Thank you. Email randyruzicka@ att.net