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Messages - MaSnaka

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I spoke to the mech at the BMW shop (my wife's car this time) and he said that fuel alone should clean it under normal driving but I could use a product called SeaFoam.  He mentioned another one available to him commercially.  Add to the gas tank and run it.  Really designed to dissolve carbon deposits but he thought it wouldn't hurt to use it.  Also said I could pull the carb and check the valves with a bore scope to see how clean they are after just running normal gas through while driving.  I think I will try that first then take the extraordinary measures if necessary.

John

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Thanks Jay,
Knowing that helps me understand what was going on.  It explains a lot.
I can't wait to get this repair project behind me and start enjoying my car again.
John

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Thanks for telling me it's not much to worry about.  That is what I wanted to hear.  Rather than try and clean I will do what CJ suggested and use some fuel additives and hope I never have a another chance to see those valves.  I'm still clueless as to why the grime would affect the valves that didn't have the breached gasket.

Thanks,
John

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I had the well known printo gasket failure on my 390 after about 1000 miles of fun. I used the gasketsinch to glue it down to the heads prior to installing the manifold like the instructions say. I used the rightstuff at the front and back instead of the cork. No external leaks. It still split at the #6 intake port sucking in a considerable amount of oil. I have the MR-Gasket 202A to replace the Felpro now and so I think I have that problem handled.

 The plug in #6 was fouled needless to say but what I am puzzled about is the condition of all the valves when viewed through the head ports. They all have a black grimy build up, what I would call thick. These edelbrocks are fairly new (1000 miles)and I'm surprised at how much buildup there is already. The ports all look clean just the valves have deposits, there was no sign of oil deposits inside the intake plenum which leads me to believe it's not a PVC problem. Is there something else here I should be concerned about?

 Worth mentioning is the engine was running well and had been tuned by a reputable dyno guy. I also discovered my vacuum advance canister had a blown diaphragm for how long I don't know. I wonder how truly tuned it was because I have no idea when the diaphragm gave out. Thanks for any help or ideas you have.

 John


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FE Technical Forum / 390 is blowing smoke from the drivers side...
« on: July 21, 2013, 08:05:51 PM »
side pipe. I recently developed a noticeable miss at light throttle which seemed to go away at heavier throttle. It's hard for me to tell for sure what's going on by ear with the loud exhaust and rough idle. Yesterday I pulled the plugs (after the car has sat for 1 week) and found #1 black and wet, #6 was covered in thick black deposits, #2 & #3 had a light grey/silver color and the rest were a darker charcoal grey. I was surprised to see such a variety of conditions in the plug color. Maybe 1000 miles on the plugs, new carb AED 750 HP, new heads Edelbrock ported. I cleaned the plugs, gaped at .38 and replaced. Today the car started out running better but by afternoon I noticed the miss had returned and a lot of white smoke after light throttle to coasting and then when throttling up again. Just out the drivers side. At a heavier load the smoke would stop but I was taking it easy trying to get home.  Miss got noticeably worse which I figure was due to the plug fouling again. Am I looking at an intake gasket failure causing the smoke and fouled plug? An idle screw adjustment to correct the plug colors? Plugs are Autolite 3924.  I also checked the plug wires with my ohm meter and they ranged 99-117 with the two black plugs at 105. 

 Thanks,
 John

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The carb is sold.  Thanks for looking.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker arm to shaft clearance spec ???
« on: June 27, 2013, 02:19:10 PM »
I did this a few months ago and it was recommended to hone the bushings to 2 thousandths clearance.  We used an adjustable reamer.  That was from the POP valvetrain instructions.

John

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All that is left is the Carb.  The other parts are gone.
It is packed nicely in a box and doesn't take up much space on the shelf.  So I will keep it until the right situation presents itself.  Let me know if you need a carb, I'm sure we can make it happen.
John

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D2TEA heads, used, complete and assembled but one bent exhaust valve, two complete valvetrain assemblies non-adjustable, valvetrain oil drip tins, stock ball/ball pushrods, Holley 770 Street Avenger Carb with the choke and choke horn removed. All were removed from a good running motor (exception for bad valve) last December due to some upgrades. $50.00 for the lot, shipping not included. I want to clear this stuff from the garage and pick up some beer money in return. Everything is boxed and can be shipped but its heavy and expensive. I can meet halfway to deliver for locals. Located in Thousand Oaks, CA 91360

Thanks,
John
Yellowsubmarine452@yahoo.com

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Question about a Tremec TKO
« on: April 20, 2013, 12:33:00 PM »
JayB- Thanks for clarifying.  I am learning new things all the time.  I have more questions but will not hijack your thread and will post them in a different thread later.  I'm still recovering from my last project and am not ready to start another right now..

John

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Question about a Tremec TKO
« on: April 19, 2013, 06:55:20 PM »
My first post-This looks like a great forum.

"My alternative is a toploader with a Hurst Competition Plus shifter and a Gear Vendors overdrive.  I'm comfortable with that option, but I'd kind of like to try a Tremec, since I've never had one before..."


Can you explain the overdrive in a 4 speed toploader?  I have a toploader and would love to have an overdrive or 5th gear for freeway cruising.  Is it a big deal?  My trans was rebuilt about 3-4 years ago.  3.73 rear gives me around 3500rpms at 70mph.

Thanks,
John

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