fred on page 10 you indicated your idle was 17afr  that is way too lean it has to be pretty rich at idle around 13afr the rest of what you had doesnt seem too bad except secondary jet may be  a bit fat  my car works best with 13.5 afr idle about 15afr cruise  12.5-13 wot. on a 750 vac secondary carb i had to go  to a 37 squirter and  orange or green pump cams blue will work but only in 1 position i could not slowly move from a stop sign without  running out of fuel i mean driving like a grandma  your carb is much bigger and i would think it has less signal and demands more fuel off idle from pumpshot and more fuel from the transfer slots to transition from idle transferslot then main jet i wouldnt  worry about ifr unless you cant get  to 13afr  your plug gap will take care of smog issues  i run mine at .048 gap  this is why new cars have emissions systems and smell like a dryer vent! also disconnect vacuum advance until you get other stuff sorted out!

i and most people at work think hes on crack well let him sit on it for a while! i could buy an aftermarket block blow it up then repeat cheaper!

Good idea,tomorrow I will  take a set of calipers to the garage and measure  thank you sir!                                                                           ok  i got a 6.770 dia crank pulley and a 6.640 wp pulley idid see a post from a while back about pulleys  gonna investigate that! 

hey guys , someone  i work with has a 425 hp 427 std bore 2 4v intake  carbs  cast iron headers popup pistons  heads  he says borg warner 4 speed  lifters are mia   how much would this be worth???

thanks again guys! i sure wont put 87 in anymore but it was an emergency! what was weird was air fuel at idle went up from 13.5 13.7 to 14.5 or more. i kinda wrote my timing stupid my initial timing is 18 with 34total vacuum gives another 12 at idle gets vacuum to 15-16hg carb is a 3310 cheapie no dash pot like the 600 oem carb but what you were saying about it sticking: i was thinkin about were the vacuum pod letting off and mech timing going up may have crossed early or high and caused pinging ? maybe? but im not gonna do  that again i was showin my brother how his 351c 4v is inferior at layin rubber from 10 mph than my boat anchor \ dumptruck motor. my real concern was the engine gettin cold on the open road. imean its acually running like 3mins after  starting it  no temp gauge needed   it is cold and spittin the rad is luke warm drive at 30 or 40 for a while it warms back up never had any problem on 80 or 90 degree days  just on 60 to 70 degree days when you want to take a cruise ! could it be timing 46 all in  or do aluminum heads lose that much heat?

looks like a6 is your straight up!  goes to show how important it is to check your parts ! if this happened to me when i built my motor i would have been screwed there was no fe forum i could picture myself in the garage staring at the wall wondering why i didnt do an ls motor. NOT!!!! anyway good luck! that thing will be a bear when your done !

thanks guys  got a new 195 starts to open at 195 drilled 1 .062 hole in it installed had to help brother do water pump on  3.5 doch taurus  under timingchain cover really !!!! hope my ranger lasts 179000 it wont be mine then! well see what happens sunday!