Closing out the thread.


Got probably 2 or 300 miles and a timing tensioner went out. So pulled head since it had the problem with cylinder 2. Found the valve was tuliped causing valve to be about .050" longer than the other valves.

Also the oil hole is a drain for the bottom side of lash adjusters

Picked up a 2007 F150 and found cylinder 2 to have no compression.  No appearance of engine or head replacement appears to be original 200k motor.  Found removing the intake rocker allowed the cylinder to seal up.  Ended up removing about .050 from the lash adjuster (lifter) to get it to have compression.  Runs good.

Any idea how a valve could recede (?) beyond where the lifter bottoms out? it llikely moved about .100" from its original position new.  I was shocked the valve seemed to seal up with no leakage when I pulled the rocker arm.  Just can't wrap my brain around what's going on and I don't have an inspection camera.   Also going to attach a pic of an oil hole the I would think needs a plug, but not sure if maybe it's supposed to be open.

Any recomendations of a good forum for these motors?  Have posted on the FTE forum but no luck there

I guess the cold weather must do something to those people ! 

I'm guessing the lack of sunlight...  That's some funny stuff!

Anybody here familiar with HP Tuners?

Anybody done this from scratch?  I have several vehicles and rather than purchase a tuner for each vehicle I thought why not just do it myself!  The information I'm finding doesn't really make much sense to me though.  Do I still have to purchase software for each vehicle, if that's the case while it would be interesting it wouldn't be worth the money. 

Anyone on here done this?

Good Luck!

looking at the internals of that vane pump vs yours looks like a no-brainer.  The Godzilla block looks awesome, but having that oil pump gives me the "what were they thinking" vibe; Especially for the super duty line. 

Seems interesting, if you have a LOT of time to burn!

Since there is a direct correlation to the switch, maybe unplug everything on the switch and see if any voltage is backfeeding to the switch that shouldn't be?  maybe start pulling all fuses to the bare minimum for vehicle to run and see if can isolate circuit that way?  I'm just guessing.  I assume the sensors use a 5 volt ref signal, any chance that voltage gets wonky with headlights on?

Also anything that your checking voltage on I would check voltage using the actual ground wire for that component as opposed to leaving meter hooked to a chassis ground.  Obviously seeing if different with headlights on vs off.

If lots of components get 12V from the headlight switch could even unplug and maybe individually induce 12v to componenets 1 at a time from the plug.  Good luck

 For some reason this time the bypass valve decided to open at 94 psi instead of 92 psi.  I can't explain that with the changing of the pickup!
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If the pump is bypassing internally wouldn't the smaller pickup showing a restriction cause a bit of pull on the back side of relief valve possibly?