Joe, I wish you the best in your retirement and I hope you continue to frequent this forum.  Your expertise is very valuable, and a source of reliable information like you about certain cylinder heads and intakes is tough to come by.  Good luck to you and your wife, and stay in touch - Jay

After you reset the valvetrain did you look to see if the oiling issue at the back few rockers is solved?  Or did you just assume because of the ticking that there is still no oiling at the rear rockers?  I think it would be worth confirming that there is still no oiling at the rear.

An exhaust leak can sound like a tick, or a knock for that matter.  I thought I had a serious rod knock once, and it turned out to be a header pipe disconnected at the collector.  The point is that it is possible you are chasing two different issues, the rocker oiling and a separate exhaust leak.

I don't know how this could explain your symptoms but you will sometimes see cracks in the block between the main bearing bore and the cam bearing bore, along the oil passage there.  Usually this is on journal 2 or journal 4.  May be related to why the problem shows up hot; when cold the crack closes up, but opens again at higher temperature.

If you suspect the oil could be part of the problem, try a change to Valvoline straight 40 weight or 20W-50, and see how that changes things.

Quality of the E85 fuel in my area varies quite a bit.  One guy I know tested E85 from multiple pumps and found some as low as 70% ethanol.  I don't know if this is a common problem, but it's something to be aware of.

Bob, I think that since it is a hydraulic connection, rather than a mechanical connection forced by a spring, the lifespan will be fine.  I have a hydraulic throwout bearing in one of my Mustangs with a T56 Magnum transmission, and it has not given me any trouble after 5+ years.   It is in constant contact with the clutch fingers.

I think Barry is onto something.  The T&D adjusters have a relief in the diameter, or "waist", where oil flows out of the pushrods and into the rocker body, through the adjuster.  If the adjuster's "waist" is not lined up with the hole in the rocker body, the oil will be severely restricted or cut off.  On my cylinder head package I specify only a couple turns on the adjuster is permitted, to make sure the waist on the adjuster remains lined up with the oil hole in the rocker body.

To check this, take one of the rockers that is not oiling and note the position of the adjuster.  Then remove it completely, and you will see the waist I'm describing.  Measure down to the oil hole in the rocker body from the top of the rocker, and then do the same with the adjuster to see if the hole is lined up with the waist.  If the adjuster threads are lined up with the rocker body hole, instead of the waist, you have found the problem.

I'm guessing you pulled the driver's side valve cover.  On that side the oil comes up from the #2 cam bearing location, and has to go to the back to oil all the rockers.  If there isn't sufficient oil going to the back then it is likely bleeding off somewhere.  Since it happens when the engine warms up, it is likely a clearance opening up with temperature and bleeding off excessive oil.  I would be looking at rocker arm to shaft clearance, a broken or cracked rocker shaft, or a leak around the rocker pedestals.  I doubt the lifters are the problem.

SOHC blocks had the standard FE deck height.  Stock chamber volume is right about 120cc.  Don't know about the pin buttons.

Doug, I usually use the bolts holes on the front/back of the heads for two of the chains, and add a long intake bolt in each corner for the other two chains.  I've also used extended length water pump bolts at the front in the past also.  Sometimes I lift them without the intake attached, in which case the intake bolt holes are convenient.  Lots of different options there...