20 - 30 years ago I bought a set of trw L2291A pistons at Carlisle. they were brand new in the box with the rings. I've see L2291F's but not A's.
anybody know what they are? were they troublesome? can I use them or should I just scrap-em? they are marked .030 over & I only paid $30 bucks.
the box had 390 forged scribbled on it. thanks for your input.

real cars don't have wipers you can pick up & stay up, like cockroach antennnas. as a matter of fact, vacuum wipers rule. When you decelerate those tickets will leave home in a hurry.

the time to run the vin is b4 you buy it not after. too bad so sad. I can remember a few years ago at Carlisle the penisylvania state police were removing front fenders from shelbys to check the vin stampings. If the owner wouldn't do it on the spot, the car was impounded & towed. Myself, if I've bought the vette, I would have kept my mouth shut & used it for my winter rat, & then parted it out. the new owner is most certainly out the car & the money. sucks.

hang it from the ceiling. or maybe change the rollers to flat tappet.

if it fires & runs nice enough, I would be tempted to give it a light buff & leave it as is. it's gonna be the next craze & I dig it.

If you fire it & you decide just to just run it unrestored or rebuilt, at the very least replace the rubber valve stem seals. They get rock hard over the years & will disintegrate into small pieces rather quickly & eventually get into the oil pump, jamming it & twisting the pump drive shaft until it breaks off leaving you without oil pressure. Then all kinds of bad things will happen. Great find & keep us posted with your plans for the car.

in the early 80's I had a chevelle ( got it for free) with a small block, 4 sp. & 4:11s. I used Kelly 8" slicks & would drop the clutch @ 5k. & the rpm's would drop to 3400 right in the torque sweet spot. 1.8-9 60' times.
never broke it. this was a daily driver making a 100 mi commute every day. The secret to longevity I thought was using a 10" clutch & it never slipped. the car really fell off at the far end, but was amazing out of the hole. Lakewood traction bars also helped. You just have to find a spot out in the middle of nowhere, & practice to see what works the best. A lot depends on weight transfer & gear ratios of the rear & first gear. I also had the front swaybar unhooked. Bad news Is, it may take a second pair of slicks after all the testing.