I replaced my differential yoke for one that fit a 1350 U-joint this winter. It's leaked ever since. When I ordered the new yoke from Moser they said just take the pinion housing out, install the new yoke and tighten the nut down to 250 ft. lbs torque. Moser claimed it was no big deal.
The oil leak believe it or not is coming through the yoke splines and around the nut. The pinion seal is good.

When I replaced the differential yoke I held the yoke in a vice and used a breaker bar with water pipe extension on it to tighten it down until I felt a small drag on the rotation of the pinion. Since I was coming off the floor to get that done with the breaker bar and water pipe extension I figured I was in the ball park. BUT, today when I took it out the nut broke loose with a small amount of effort using just the breaker bar. In other words the nut was loose. Now, Moser wants me to take the whole center section out and bring it to them to inspect the pinion housing and apply the right amount of torque on the nut. That seems weird since the only thing wrong is the pinion housing and they don't use a crush but a solid spacer on them.

One of the things that concerns me is a hole in the housing (before the O-ring seal that allows oil to lube the bearings. Moser claims it doesn't matter where this hole in located (top, bottom, or side) when installed in the center section. To me, this is probably where the oil is coming from that is leaking through the splines of the yoke. Where this hole is located should be relevant.

My plans are to find someone with a 250 ft. lb torque wrench and put it back together since the pinion seal is good. Have you guys had any experience that might help me here.

Rockhouse66, you got real time information. That's what I was looking for. I read all this stuff on cams, run it through a computer dyno program and all you get is a comparison between the different cams you input. That's like figuring what octane you can run. The information from a engineering firm ( or credible looking website) says 7.6-7.8 DCR is good for 87 octane, 7.8-8.0 DCR is good for 89 octane, 8.0-8.2 DCR is good for 91 octane, 8.2-8.4 DCR is good for 93 octane and anything above that you need racing fuel. We also know from experience the aluminum head and a low quench will aid in preventing knock. Now I just got through putting 1600 miles on a car with an 8.1 DCR with iron heads but a quench of .030". I use 89 octane because of the quench, I'm sure of it because depending on which gas station I got gas from my engine would ping on that trip. I get 13mpg so I used a lot of those service stations along the way.
Anyone can study information, some of it fits my calculations, some of it don't. But the reason I get on here is for real time information and the experience you guys have got. That makes two of you that don't like a 265DEH. I don't like it either now.

Ross, what do you think about a 265DEH cam. That'll give me about 13 more horsepower and 33 ft. lbs torque at 2000 rpm. It takes away about 25 horsepower at 5000 rpm but I don't want to go there anymore anyway. The only bad thing is if I put it at 110/106 I'll have a 8.0 DCR. I don't mind that as long as it don't get to 8.1. My 406 has 8.1 and it teeters on 89/91/93 octane depending on where you get it. And on a trip that sucks. I think 8.0 DCR would be secure with 89 octane. What do you think, leave the motor as is and change the cam. Also the 265DEH intake duration at .050 is 211, which would be right on for 9.58 CR.

I'll run them through the computer. But, the 265DEH gives me a lot of hp and torque at 2000 rpm. It's an 8.0 DCR though.

Jim, if you want to increase the DCR, you advance the cam timing, not retard it.  You're trying to decrease your static compression ratio with a thicker gasket, but want the DCR to stay the same, right?

Yes and no. the cam I have now with a thicker head gasket would lower my Static Compression from 9.6 to 9.25. At the same time that bigger cam I have now will lower my DCR to worthless value. I've got a cam that will work but if I use it straight up the DCR value will shoot up past what I want. By retarding the cam to 110 ICL instead of 106 straight up, that will bring my DCR back down to a useable value.  The part I don't get is the built in advance of the cam. I feel like I'm changing something that wasn't meant to be changed. confused

I think the carb is fine

Although I would like to see a little tighter quench, and unless you measured the chambers on your heads, I'd assume they are greater than 72 cc, so you could likely cut the deck a little and still be at 9.25 or so (Although I am not recommending assuming, I'd measure them)

Russ, Believe it or not I sure did CC the Edelbrock heads. The only spark plug I had at the time was a lawn mower plug that didn't reach that far but it was 72cc. I only measured one chamber though. I figured if it was made on a CNC all of them would be equal. With this setup I'll be getting 336 ci out of it and going from a 7.5 DCR to a 7.7 DCR. This combination gives me a lot more torque and a little more horsepower up to 4500 rpm. I don't drag race my car often so I can't see missing the 4750 up rpm anyways. I'd rather see the .061 quench than keep the head gaskets I'm running now.   

It'll work fine, very slightly on the low side of compression but should be a great all around driver

Are you sure you are only 9.25:1 though?  It's not easy to get a 410 down that low unless it's got a lot of deck clearance

Russ,
The Edelbrock heads has 72cc's and the gasket is .038. The deck has been cleaned up and I was miking .023-.024 to top of block when assembled. The piston is a -15 cc dish 1.66" comp. height piston. The quench is going to be about .061-.062. I'll live with that. The big thing I'm worried about is the carb. I love that 750 Holley. It has a great choke for cold weather, starts, idles and runs great. I hate letting it go. Do you think it'd be too much for that engine? When I work it up on the computer program it just gains me about 2-3HP over a 670 Avenger. Thanks Russ.

I remember that O-ring and never touched it. Thanks, I can replace that and apply grease next time. I didn't apply any lubricant to it when I re-installed it. Thanks