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Messages - CaptCobrajet

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601
Yep.................on the edge of lean right there.  I tuned on the bleeds about all I could.  We use that cam/spring/race T&D set-up frequently, and it will sing to 8K no problemo, as far as valvetrain goes.  It was pretty much done there, but it did flatten the curve a little.  The dual plane manifold was starting to struggle on that big engine, by 67-6800.

602
Vendor Classifieds / Re: BBM Heads in Stock!
« on: January 09, 2015, 09:37:25 PM »
Can't sell 'em if you ain't got 'em! LOL. 

603
Vendor Classifieds / BBM Heads in Stock!
« on: January 06, 2015, 09:26:05 PM »
Plenty of BBM heads in stock, ready for finish work.  If you are interested in a pair of complete BBM heads for your application, just shoot me an email and we can help you.

604
Member Projects / Re: Down under Thunderbolt
« on: December 24, 2014, 12:10:43 PM »
Very nice work Todd!

605
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 Block s
« on: December 24, 2014, 11:56:24 AM »
From what I can tell, there has to be about 30 hp difference between a good modern iron block and a Shelby aluminium.  I have had two almost identical engines on the same dyno..........the iron made 920 hp, and with bigger valves and about 20 more cfrm through the middle of the lift, the aluminium engine made 900 hp with a top-of-the-line vacuum pump.  There was probably another 20 hp in the aluminium engine due to exhaust flange mismatch with my dyno headers (have checked it before), but the vacuum pump is worth something on the aluminium block, and the better head flow is also.  I think an iron block with the vac pump would show me 950 hp on that combo, and the alum 920 hp if I built a set of headers that fit the exhaust port correctly.  My opinion is 30 hp iron vs. aluminium with everything else a constant..............but that is at the 900+ power level.  In a 600 to 700 hp street engine, it is not that much, speaking linear terms, but there are other things to consider on the street.  The lifters will bleed more when hot, and the mains need to be "adjusted" for expansion on the aluminium........on the street or the track.   Power vs. weight, it is ALMOST a wash for a drag car.  The power would almost be offset (within a few hundredths) by the weight difference, but the car should "work" better with the weight off the nose.  In a road racer, with a dry sump, I say aluminium all the way.  On the highway, I lean toward the iron from the long term, trouble free use aspect.  JMO.

606
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 Block s
« on: December 22, 2014, 09:24:14 PM »
For the street.........one word and three letters............iron BBM.  Can't go wrong at $3295 plus frt.  REALLY nice blocks.

607
Vendor Classifieds / Re: Dueling 390's for sale......................
« on: November 12, 2014, 12:27:52 AM »
Well, that is a fairly loaded question.  With equal prep, I think a 428 should top 600 with the BBM heads.  There is alot of well-matched parts in those 390s.  Not sure I would go Streetmaster.  I like those on small cube engines where a small cross-section would be your friend.  I think the RPM would be better, or maybe even a Portosonic as cams get bigger.  I also would not throw out a Street Dominator!  There are a few '70's era FE intakes that may not look as swoopy as the new ones that will RUN if you mix your chili just right.

608
Vendor Classifieds / Re: Dueling 390's for sale......................
« on: November 02, 2014, 04:53:12 AM »
I think so.  I have all the stuff on the shelf for two 428's and five 445's, so I am going to put some in the pipeline.  If I use them for "fillers" when I have custom engines awaiting parts, it works out pretty good.  The hard part was getting enough inventory here to do it!

609
Vendor Classifieds / Re: Dueling 390's for sale......................
« on: October 30, 2014, 10:25:14 PM »
Both of the dueling 390's are now sold!  I appreciate all who looked, talked, and thought about buying them.  There are more where these came from, Lord willing!

610
FE Technical Forum / Re: FE Block Filler
« on: October 20, 2014, 01:29:33 PM »
The Moroso stuff sucks..............it will move around badly.  It takes about two hone jobs to stabilize the Hardblok, but it is better.  Niether will hold back water.

611
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 stroker build
« on: October 19, 2014, 01:31:08 PM »
It would take some creative milling of the valve cover rail on the heads to do it.  It can be done.  I have moved the valve covers around on various combos for years.  The angle change would work in your favor going to a MR Tunnel Wedge, but you would have to weld the tops of the runners in order to seal the gasket at the top of the HR head port.

I did a 520 inch 11:1 street engine that made 800 hp on pump gas with the Dove HR, but it had a really good head on it, and I filled the Dove intake extensively.  I would not want to do it again.......... it would be cheaper to build a tunnel ram.

612
Vendor Classifieds / Re: Dueling 390's for sale......................
« on: October 18, 2014, 06:59:33 PM »
Price reduced..........The CJ now at $10,000 and the BBM now at $11,000.

Both engines have careful and correct prep throughout, and the following parts, only one has really good iron CJ heads with my prep, and the other a pair of new BBM heads with my prep work.

.030 over 390 block. bored, plate honed, square decked by me, and align honed
Proper oil mods throughout
C4AE-B iron cranks
C7AE-B connecting rods. ARP bolts, mag'd and shot peened, sized properly
King rod and main bearings
Both internal balanced
Forged flattop pistons
Custom ring pack, Steel Moly top, Napier 2nd
Crane .588 adv lift, 240/248@.050 on 110 C/L hydraulic roller
Morel short travel, severe duty hydraulic rollers
Smith Bros pushrods
Hardened shafts with studs
Non-Adj Ford rockers
Deck is +.010 and have 8045PT (.051 thick) gaskets for 391 HD app
Cometic kevlar manifold gaskets
Port-matched Ed RPM manifold
Quick Fuel 850 annular carb with dyno tune
1/2" phenolic open spacer
Cast Cobra-LeMans valve covers
Accel Breakerless distributor w/steel gear and vacuum advance
Pioneer SFI damper
Canton windage screen
Milodon 31130 oil pan
M57B Melling pump
ARP pump drive
Cloyes double roller chain
1-pc eccentric and oil slinger inside

Dyno sheets, build info, and oil filter element furnished to buyer(s).

New prices put these engines in the "great deal" category. The same care went into these as goes into every street or race engine that leaves here. I'm contemplating a major purchase and turning these into liquid capital would help the cause! You can reach me at captcj at hughes dot net. Thanks.

613
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 stroker build
« on: October 18, 2014, 12:17:13 PM »
Z-spar "splash zone repair" BB.  A-788..........check it out.  Alot of the "head gurus" repackage the stuff and charge 3X the price, but I get it from Go2marine.com.  It is the best filler for the induction side, by far.

614
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 stroker build
« on: October 17, 2014, 11:52:50 PM »
You are suffering from "COMBO".   COMBO is not terminal..........so far we have a 100% recovery rate for Combo.  Jay is right about the volume issue.  The Dove HR intake and heads need about two quarts of Z-spar spread around in various places to get them to come around for what you describe.  There are options.  The better suited the head, the less cam is required.  If you use the right head, and the rest of the engine is good quality, it should make your 600 hp no problem.  My first thought is a BP Pro-Port..........I know the guy that does those, LOL.  The BBM or the Survival would probably get you there without a full-on port job...........but the prep would have to be right for the task.  There is alot of good info on this site from alot of good and knowledgeable folks.  As Jay said, welcome to our small piece of the web here!

615
FE Technical Forum / Re: Dueling 390's, Dyno Data Added
« on: October 14, 2014, 07:27:07 PM »
I think .600 lift is a good stopping place.  From what I have seen in testing, a roller tipped rocker does not benefit HP until after about 6500 rpm.  Most cams that operate to 6500 usually do not have more than .600 anyway.  I think when you put more lift than that on iron rockers it starts pushing and pulling on the guides when the rocker really sweeps across the valve tip.  Up to about .600, the evidence mark from a factory rocker is pretty tight and near the center of the valve.  They have an arc in the beam that keeps things nice.  A straight rocker will sweep more, but the roller tip crutches it.

I did the valvetrain that way for an "endurance street" idea.  There is no roller tip, and no adjuster, so not much can go wrong.  Once I set the preload via pushrod length, it is a "bolt down and go" system that really can't fail with 150-ish seat and 450-ish open pressure, and we turned the BBM test engine 7000 on the dyno just to confirm that the set-up would do it.  I used very rigid pushrods, and studded the pedestals.  I've done this several times now, and so far, zero failures.  Wade White is driving his every day like this.

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