You know Jay I really don't know what to expect, I am so used to pulling big numbers from a Mod motor these old school builds just boggle my mind. The goal was to see 500hp to 525hp..................Which is so disappointing for the $ spent. I could have built a 800 HP mod motor for what it cost to build this motor. But at the end of the day it all comes down to drivability which the limiting factor with Higher HP old technology and a street car.

When you come from having a low 10 second daily driven 5000 lb truck to a 4000 lb old school FE that will be lucky to run with a Bone stock Subaru STI the whole thought is kind of depressing when you truly think about it. But it is what it is, and I know what I am dealing with.

So every now and again I just get a real good nights sleep and I wake up with what I think is a real good idea. My history with building cars and bikes goes back 30 yrs, however the majority of that time is mainly over the last 15 with higher HP technology stuff. I have decided to ditch this carb stuff and and run a FAST EZ-EFI system.

Now my question is to you Engine builders with EFI conversions.

I have three options to choose from all based off of intakes I already own, I am not looking for the max HP, but a combo of HP, Original looking old school motor and drive ability. My combination is as follows:

1) Bored and stroked cross Bolt main 406 so CI is 445
2) Lentech AOD
3) Rear end gear is a 3.89
4) Car weight is about 3900 lbs wet (1961 Thunderbird)

Intakes available

1) Ford LR 1963 Dual Quad ( Thinking FAST EZ with dual quad upgrade Kit )
2) Shelby Side winder
3) Edelbrock Street Master

All three intakes have plus or minuses I am sure, the one that intrigues me the most is the dual quad with the FAST EZ, however I have read on this forum some short comings on the EZ system and I have also read the EZ 2.0 is a better system................I sure like the looks and the function of the 2.0 better so the right fit might very well be the Street Master or the Shelby which I know most here dont really like that intake for performance.

So what to do? I will be interested in hearing your thoughts, One thing is for sure................I have made up my mind and the carb really needs to go away.................Hell Its been so long I cant even remember how to tune on of those things!!! LOL

Thanks Ratbird

I think it turned out great, I am thinking that the deep sump pan might have to go and a T pan installed but we will see in a few more weeks when she finally goes in!

Yes and no on the 2 spacers, I had a leveling spacer and a Phenolic spacer, I have drawn a phenolic spacer "1 piece" that will both elevate and level...............its at the machinist.

I have always thought the same thing Jay, even to a point where I always thought why not another calculator for Force induction.

My experience is that cork doesnt leak if assembled properly, but admittedly there are many options nowadays, any of which take a little thinking. 

I will say though, no 2 cork end seals manufacturers seem to be the same, my favorite combo is Mr G intake gaskets and Felpro end seals.  The Mr G end seals dont match up well to the intake gasket tabs

I cant say I agree with you, I think that if installed properly they wont leak............for many years but they will get hard and will leak over time. I have seen it many times. I would take a neoprene gasket any day over a cork gasket. I have been building cars and Bikes for 30 yrs and I have seen more weeping cork gaskets then any other gasket, I have yet to assy a motor with neoprene or rubber gaskets and had them leak.

Actually looks like I kind of have this backwards, I need to run a 3.89 on the street with the 335/40-18 I have in the rear and a set of 33 x 14.5 slicks I should be running a 4.30 Spooled rear end which will send me through the traps at about 5500 RPM's

Other question I have is 3.70 or 3.89 or 4.11 gears to go with this AOD? I am thinking 3.89.