Back to back, the Titan was not any better as long as the supply line on the suction side of the regular pump is large enough.  The Titan has no pickup.......it is part of the housing body, which reduces the chance of cavitation.  Nice pump, nice guy owns the place, but in a Ford, the pump has the same style rotor as the Titan.  The pump is probably more durable in an endurance setting........a cast pump can break, but they can be cryoed also...........

The need for "more" damper is most closely related to stroke.  As stroke increases, heavier inertia weights and larger diameters are more desireable.  I use alot of both styles of the ATI dampers.  On some short stroke FEs (like 3.5) we use a smaller diameter, and very light shell...........On long strokers (like 4.4) we use a larger and heavier unit.  I think the ATI's are the best..........JMO.  They have alot more options than what is listed in the catalog.

I use the NGK, BKR6E in the BBM for pump gas street use.  Seems to do better for me than the Autolite on pump gas.

I've done several Stockers that go north of 550 with the 481/490 and 525 lift rules.  I think the manifold could make 600 hp if you suck on it hard enough, but that may be about the limit.   It will respond to porting in the right places, but without working it, it will struggle to get past the 600 mark.

I'd go hydraulic roller and never look back.  It's more torque and more reliable than a flat lifter cam.  I use a .524 lift,  224/224 on a 112 custom grind pretty often for what you descibe.  We put it in heavy cars, 1-tons, etc.  It is my favorite for an engine that needs to be there right off idle.  The cam is a little more, and you'd have to buy lifters, but much better in the long run, and no worn lobes when you least expect it.

I guess I have a whole lot more faith in the OEM C7AE-B rods (or other beefy part numbers) than some folks do.  I am not a "real" engineer, but  I am a pretty good hillbilly shithouse engineer.  That is a trademarked term, by the way, ha ha.  Back when aftermarket rods were not legal in Stock and Super Stock, we....and many others........did figure out how to make the rods live.  I absolutely agree that RPM is much harder on the rods than power alone, and really high compression ratios stress things more also.  Most "windowed" FE blocks are from RPM related failures, but not from BROKEN rods initially.  First, they spun the bearing, and then the cap came off, and then it went through the side.  My opinion is that in the vast majority of rod failures, the rod broke after it slapped around on stuff a few rounds after the bolts failed and the cap flew off.  I have seen the beams bent double at times, that did not break. 

The Lemans rods became junk when the dowels got loose, and the cap would not repeat the same place twice.  Many guys just bolted them right in there, unround, with bad clearance issues, and never knew it.  The 3/8 "nut and bolt" became the rod of choice, for the extra meat that remained around the housing bore.  When we learned how to prep the big end of the rod to compensate for the flex, and MUCH better fasteners came along, the rod and bearing troubles really became a non-issue.  If the housing bore is not fixed right, the bearing, which is too narrow for it's diameter, will spin in the bore, hence starting the snowball effect that ends up a hole in the pan rail.  While I am sure there have been cases where a rod beam did fail, the vast majority of stock FE rod problems begin with the big-end compromised.

I grew up at racetracks, watching FE's with stock rods turning 8K repeatedly, and if prepped properly, they rarely had problems.  If prepped "well" but wrong, they would not make it through one weekend.  When I do an engine these days with OEM rods, they get the 1978 "Super Stocker" prep job, along with ARP bolts.  My gut tells me that I would not worry about the rods breaking with a blower, below 6500 rpm, if it had even 600-700 HP.  I would want to polish the beams, make sure there are no stress risers, and mag them, or even X-ray them, and shot peen them.  We have a few places in Chattanooga that used to do metal parts prep work for the foundries and for CE that will do some of that stuff for surprisingly low costs.  I send six or eight sets of rods at a time, and then shelf them, and the per set cost is less.  Then, doing the big-end and adding bolts can be done as needed.  Clevite used to make a bearing # 952-P that also helped.  I find the King bearing will carry the load better these days than the Clevite or the F-M offerings.  Both the rod journal and the rod big-end bore need to have VERY minimal taper...........less than the bearing books profess.........because the FE rod bearing is absolutely too narrow when loaded heavily, for anything to be out of wack.

The big end needs exaggerated eccentricity at the parting line, and very tight vertical crush.  There are several ways to get there, but that is how they will survive.  Scary tight vertical bearing clearance, and scary loose at the part-line.  The bearings will be beautiful upon teardown.  I think it would be cool to do an FE with a light box-style forged piston, properly prepped OEM internals, and 8-10 psi boost.  If I live long enough to do it, I have plans to play with that myself.  I think the 390 crank, or even a 361 steel unit (low cost core) with the snout and tail fixed would be really durable.  3-webs, studded mains, and head studs and Cometic head gaskets.  Should run a LONG time.  Low cam lift, .500-ish, with a valve job for that idea, and a head that can be prepped to compliment the cam.................duration depending on cubes, wide separation, really good exhaust "blowdown" and good follow-up exhaust flow.  Sweet for the street. JMO.

Ive Seen some of that Chili , Blair can Cook , although His Wife Susan is Better 

Yes she is!  That is partly why I am SO fat. 

Maybe cylinder to cylinder?
Do you check individual EGT or A/F?

Did not check individual cylinders on this engine, but we have good RacePac info from in-car data on the F manifold from our Stock Eliminator engines, so I already knew pretty much where to go with the carbs.  Both the single and the dual four HR intakes are actually VERY good performers.  I used the 1X4 on my '08 EMC junk with a 4150 flange carb, and it had extremely good distribution, both A/F and temp-wise.  The floors were not filled on this head/manifold, as I thought it would like the volume.  It had straight-on rockers, no offsets of the lifters or the valvetrain.  Surprised me, really.  It should be a nice combo with plenty of grunt without having to turn to the moon.