This general topic has been previously extensively discussed in several other threads but, rather than come to erroneous conclusions based on other set-ups/experiences, I'm seeking feedback based on my specific application.

Vehicle: 1967 Cyclone

Engine: rebuilt 390 cid (+30, standard stroke) with reconditioned C7AEA heads (standard valve sizing, 3-angle valve seats, hardened exhaust seats, oil restrictors, POP end-stands), 10:1 compression, COMP XE 256 cam (212/219 intake/exhaust duration @ 50, 487/493 intake/exhaust lift), alum C6AZ-9424-H intake, 650 cfm vacuum sec Holley, 7-quart Milodon oil pan, WIX 51773 filter (the big one), Joe Gibb's 'Driven' HR-2 10W-30 oil, rebuilt OEM water pump, original clutch fan and radiator (flushed and pressure tested) w/ 185 degree thermostat (confirmed with the 'boil-in-a-pot-test'); Pertronix 'Igniter II' ignition with Autolite AP45 plugs gapped at .035, total ignition timing 36 degrees all in at 3500 rpm; FPA tri-Ys with 2.5-in H-pipe fitted full-length dual exhaust. 

Engine was broken in last year 'in the car' (20 mins at 3000 rpm no-load) and since then has had about 50 miles of driving on the backstreets of our neighborhood.  The only driven accessory is the alternator.

Drive Train: transmission: C6; rear end: 9-in Traction Lock 3:1 ratio; rear tires: 235/70-15

This morning I took the car out for its first highway run, from our residence to the Norfolk naval base and back on I-64/564.  Total distance is 20 miles driven at between a speedometer-indicated 55mph - 80mph (I haven't yet had a front end alignment done and at about 75mph it shows).  Including a stop in the mall parking lot at the turn-around point to do a chassis and underhood visual check, the trip duration was about 40 mins.  With the out-of-the box carb tune performance is crisp, acceleration is excellent, and it pulls strongly with a nice seat-of-the-pants feel.  (a performance tune on a local chassis dyno is planned later this fall).  Fuel in the 20 gal tank is a 50/50 mix of SUNOCO 100 octane and the local gas station 91 octane premium of undetermined pedigree. There was no pinging/rattling whatsoever. 

Here is what the instruments (both mechanical Auto Meters) indicate:

Water temp (outside temp 88 degrees F, sender located on top front of intake): 205 degrees at highway speed; when stopped at an intersection (in drive, brake on, 800 rpm idle) the temp slowly climbs over 3-4 mins to 220 and then stabiliizes

Oil pressure: on initial start 80 psi for approx 1 min then slowly drops to 30-35 psi at 800 rpm idle; at 55mph (2100 rpm) 45 psi, at 80 mph (3000 rpm) 60 psi.
 
My question: are these numbers typical for a package of the specifications indicated above (should I be happy with them)?

Thanks in advance

Michael

PS: I know, a stroker build was a no-brainer, but this was a 'built-to-budget' project meant as a reliable trouble-free weekend cruiser.  And I already have a street/strip tom-foolery car that my family refuse to ride in (and, therefore, it sits in a barn).

My electronic guessers are saying around 540 hp at 5200 and between 560-580 ft lb at 4200, above 500 from 3000+.  I'd guess those numbers  at the high end, but it should match your desired RPM pretty well.

It's such a unique cam for a 482 I hope you try to use it and see what it does.  The tight LSA should help the torque and make a nasty sounding idle.

I went the other way with my truck 445, about the same .050 duration, lift, and a 104 intake centerline, but spread the centers t0 112 to make it idle smoother.  It runs GREAT and I don't have the headers, intake or head you have.

If it was me, me would just get a set of them truck headers Jay used in his book/test.
They made the most power and where the cheapest.

How do you intend to use it?  My 445 is pretty similar to that and its good in a 4x4 with an NP435.  If you shifted under 5500, I wouldn't change anything and just buy a set of 1 3/4 off the shelf headers. Although I think that 104 intake is pretty early for so much compression, you may have to roll it back to 108 ICL if its fussy on fuel, it's a decent cam

Otherwise, assuming a rear gear steeper than 3.50, not too much tire and a decent converter, I'd probably shift upwards a little but big single plane and good heads, not sure you need to cam it that much.

My wag would be something around 288 advertised intake, 292 or so exhaust, low 240s for .050, 110 LSA on 106 ICL, keep the lift under .600 for the street.