I need to order a driveshaft for my '66 F100 482

Who do the members here use?

Thinking on a aluminum one

Stop posting and get welding! 

We want to hear that hot pickup running!

HaHaHa . .

Too many distractions this week!

Hoping today with phone off the hook and the gate to shop closed I can finally make more progress on the header build.

I have also been searching the  many locations parts for the '66 482 truck are located. The 3 moves in 9 months really messed things up not to mention how many times the truck location changed in past 3 years.

I had the '56 Chev friends project to deal with also. He bought it 28yrs ago and had never driven the car until YESTERDAY!

We drove it around the block for the first time. Now for the rest of the month its '66 482 Time.

Plan is to at least get it running this month.

Its also quite difficult for me to crawl under the '66 then get back up the multi zillion times needed to build headers. I wish the hoist would fit inside shop vs having it up on jack stands.

I do need to ask where is a good place to have a custom driveshaft made for the 482 project?

Kinda leaning towards a aluminum shaft.

No other vehicles in shop now with parts scattered everywhere. But its HEADER TIME!

Ok Ok, I know its a chevy but part of the story.

The pic on rotisserie was back in 1998, we started on it in 1997.
Its been taking up my limited space in shop here for over a year. It will go to upholstery next week.

With very limited time I am able to get things done everything takes forever.

'66 Progress starting NOW!

Couple more of the 416 FE. (without the '32 blocking the view)

OK Little update.  I wanted to wait until my new tube of RTV comes in to do final assembly as I would hate to get half way and then run out of  sealant and have to start over again with ANOTHER set of gaskets.  It should be in todays mail. 

Had the opportunity with the long weekend to machine the passenger side head.  In addition to sealing off each cylinder with towels, I asked my wife to hold the shop vac while I was cutting.  Didn't turn out half bad!  After I finished the machining, I cleaned, and cleaned, and re-cleaned each cylinder wall and piston top.  once it was spotless, I took WD40 and sprayed down each cylinder making a "little Puddle" at the bottom then very quickly sucked it up with the shop vac.... Just as a secondary measure for cleaning.  I then cleaned the deck surface, cleaned both sides of the head gasket and cleaned the bottom of the cylinder head (Just to remove any excess oil residue.  Once the head was bolted down, it was on to installing both Cam shafts back into the heads as well as the rocker arms.  Before anything, I backed all 16 rockers back off.  Each was slid to the side and caps bolted down. 

So as of right now, I have everything where I need it in order to seal the backing plate and front cover with gaskets and sealant.  Its going to be a 2 day affair as I need to seal the backing plate first, and then once its dry and secure, I then install the timing cover with its set of gaskets and sealer.  Longest Build in history  LOL

Long build?

Haha
Try 5yrs and counting on a 482. Engine has still not been fired.

More pics of your project please..

Front clip is off and a good start on the header build . . . Not much room to work!

I am fitting stock starter just in case the need ever arises.
I plan on using starter from Doug G

I want to be able to replace starter in just a few minutes so pipes have to go around.

After a long lull in working on this truck I was finally able to get it out of storage where its pretty much been since 2009-10

Now in shop where I can pull front clip, build the headers & exhaust

Finish up wiring, fuel and brake lines

Paint box and maybe finally get it on the road. Its been 40yrs since the dream of this truck started.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics but was a bit excited to actually see it again.

No way a stockish 427 like the one you described puts down 420 HP at the wheels.  Either that cam was far from stock, or that was one optimistic chassis dyno.  Your 482 will blow away that 427 if its set up correctly...

I will try to find the cam card. I do know the 427 Comet was faster than my friends Viper GTS . .

Could have been a happy dyno, a 64 Galaxie single 4v made 400 at the wheels. It was on a stuska dyno first and made 505.

Hopefully will soon find out. The 1 7/8" Misc Mandrel Bends from Schoenfeld showed up today.

Sorry I'm late to this party; been buried in other stuff.  In a nutshell, I'd stick with the cam you have if you want to power brakes to work reasonably, and I'd probably build a set of 1 7/8" to 2" to 2 1/8" step headers.  Primary pipe length isn't going to be critical; shoot for around 30", but anywhere between 25" and 36" should be fine, and I also wouldn't worry about keeping the tubes all the same length; I think it is more important to get that straight shot out of the port for as long as possible, and then maximize the bend radius of the tubes.  If you can afford a merge collector that would also be a good investment, and a long collector will help you quite a bit; the collector volume is quite a bit more important than the primary pipe length.  If you are going to put mufflers and an exhaust system on the truck (I assume so!) put a crossover pipe at the end of the collectors, to effectively define the collector length.

I think Ross's numbers for HP and torque are probably about right, and bear in mind that a chassis dyno will give you rear wheel HP, while the engine dyno software will give you flywheel HP in most cases.  So don't be disappointed when you get to the chassis dyno and only see 440 HP; that will translate to around 550 HP at the flywheel.

Looking forward to seeing the header pictures and the dyno numbers...

Thanks for your input Jay!

I would be happy with 440 at the wheels and 460 or more torque. Although for the $$ spent if thats all it makes would never do it again . .

I was just going by what my mostly stock 427 Comet did.

It made 420hp & 440 tq at the wheels on a 105 deg day with no tuning. Pretty much as I drove it to dyno.

Stock bore 427
Stock unported MR heads
9.6 to 1 comp
6113 Hooker headers
Good 3" exhaust with Dyno Max Ultra Flow mufflers, it did have a crossover.
It had a close to stock solid cam
Stock carbs and MR intake
Stock ignition etc

Again that was with a Top Loader so do expect more loss with the C-6
In the past I have done engine dyno then chassis dyno just to see the loss.

Pretty much all were a 100hp loss with a 4spd and 120 with a c-6  That was 500hp engines.

Looks like my dyno program is a bit HAPPY! 

Its typical cool arizona day 1000' elevation, 72 deg temp with 12% humidity.
Typical for the PHX area

I am at 1966' elevation that by itself kills power around 25hp.

If I change the desktop dyno to 2000' elevation, 100 deg F and 30% humidity it drops the numbers to:

548Hp @ 5400 RPM

586 TQ @ 4200 RPM

It shows 438 RWHP & 469 RWTQ

Which is pretty much in ballpark to what Ross/Jay said

Again its just a bench race tool. The real dyno will give me the numbers . . .

I will be very very disappointed if it does not make 460 TQ to the wheels . . I did a LOT better with a Cast Iron D3 head in my 460 pickup . .