Dan, it was my pleasure!  I'm going to send Jay a pic of the lifter valley mods...I'm sure he will post it on here.....those blocks will hold about two quarts of oil there when the engine is running, and that was probably what got your rod bearing in the old engine......just some info for the group.......

Hey Paul, you must have got up on the wrong side of the bed this morning, LOL.  I talk alot better than I type, btw.  If you read my first response to Keith's question, I actually was trying to get him to go to Jim Kuntz, since he bought the heads from Jim.....if I want to advertise, I'll do it in the classifieds.  I come on here because I enjoy reading about things that interest me.  I don't post on every topic, but sometimes things strike my interest, and I opine, or comment based on things I have seen in the past.  I do not have to post on a feller's cam question to keep my business going.  Fortuneatley, it is rolling along quite well at the moment.  If I choose to talk or email privately with Mr. Keith,  that will be between Keith and myself............he might buy a cam from me.......he might buy one from Kuntz, or he might call a cam company..........sorry I upset you there.  I try to be respectful and tactful on here and on the FE forum.  Sometimes I won't post when I might like to, because I worry that I'll get a comment like you just made.  I don't like it when people in "business" get too frisky in the discussion section either, so I try not to cross what I figure to be the "line"............I guess my idea of the line and yours are different.  Whether Keith buys a cam from me or not, there are some ways I come to a determination about what I would use that I do not want to spew out into the interweb for free.  I am trying to eat working on FEs.  Talking on the tech page is not work for me, it is cool down time that I enjoy...................no harm in you expressing your opinion.........I get where you are coming from...........I just gave you mine.    Now THIS is a sales pitch:  when you get to the point that I might be able to help you with yours, give me a call.

Why don't you call Jim and get a cam from him?  The ONLY way to know where the rpm range will land with a "given" duration number is to run a cam or two with your exact induction set-up, and bore and stroke, and get some idea of where it will shake out.  Bore, stroke, engine size, throat diameter, valve size, port and manifold cross-section, runner length, and plenum volume......and a few more things I won't go into, will all move where the peaks occur, and how far apart they will be.  You also need to think about some of the lower lift points, and throw the .8, .9, and 1-inch lift numbers out the window, as long as they don't back up after .750.....

Jim is a pretty smart cookie, and I would wager that he knows what the heads like, if he has worked with them on engines in the past.  JMO.

If you plan to consider the flow from .500-up only, you will need at least a 4.5 bore, 3.5-ish stroke, short/fat intake runners, and a tach that goes to 12000.

I've had the block for a long time.  It was originally intended to go in a V-drive boat we have, so I put the billet caps on for rigidity in that environment.  It did not end up in the boat........so I did a streetable build with it.    I attempted to post a dyno sheet, but my outdated computer equipment is not talking the language of the site, and I am not computer literate enough to translate....

Yes sir!! Glad to see your hard work and perserverance paid off with the big win!! Very nice week of accomplishments.

Today is "hump day"............hang in there.  Downhill after today's track time.  Best of luck to you, Mr. Jay.

Appreciate your interest.  I choose not to publish flow numbers out on the interweb.  There is a lot more going on with a good working pair of heads than the max flow number.  I generally try to get a feel for what a customer is trying to accomplish, and then try to provide a cylinder head/manifold combo to reach the goal.  Sometimes a well suited combo will run and hide from a "big numbers" head........it really depends on what a person wants to do.  A couple of years ago, a fine gentleman had me build an engine with heads he supplied.  About one year ago, we freshened the engine and put on some of my heads.  With less max flow, we made almost 100 more hp, and almost 100 ft/lbs torque.  Working strictly from flow numbers, he would have never tried my heads.   The port and the prep vary depending on the end-use.  Flow numbers are a much better tool when tweaking a combo, and taking note of all of the variables that affect the results.  Comparing head "X" with head "Y" from two different sources, only by flow numbers, may or may not tell you what you need to know.

Back when I first tried it, I cut a filter apart and looked at the flapper/rubber.  It reminds me of a reed valve, really.  I think the one in a Motorcraft filter is thick enough rubber that it shoudn't fail.  So far, so good............on a bunch of engines, a bunch of times.  May be a case of an idea tried that just happened to work, but whatever the case, it works every time.  I also always test the check valve operation on every filter I screw on one that has an accumulator.