sorry. Missed reply

150.00

I'm not so hard over against POR15, it does have its place in some situations and can be cost-effective.  I used it with good results on those portions of the Cyclone floor that were scaly but salvageable, after proper surface prep it worked a treat and then I covered it with sound deadener (see pic).

That said, I'm with TimeWarpF100's advice on finishing a sandblasted frame, don't go the POR15 route.  The lesson I've taken away is that POR is best used in places where you don't plan to have anyone see it.  The application instructions MUST be adhered to the letter or it will just peel off and/or yield a peculiar surface finish when dry that looks like crap and is impossible to cover up with anything else.  And it's a bugger to clean up.

There are no shortcuts or, at least in my limited experience, none that won't be regretted later. 

http://s458.photobucket.com/user/mlcraven/media/1967%20Cyclone%20Resto/Int7-2013SoundDeadener2_zps6f5b4443.jpg.html

poor15 does have its place,. Just not in my shop . . . LOL

For someone who has minimal $$ to cover up rust more power to them. Its just that for me I can blast it and do a much better job in the fraction of time and elbow grease.
I simply do not care for the look of it.

Again, here in AZ we have little rust to deal with.

Love that Cyclone!  Some day I would like another 66 or 67.  I do prefer the 66 as I like the grille better and then no emissions to worry about like the '67 here still has.

People use the POR15 to go direct over rust. The "cheap" route to just cover over the slop.

Since you seem to be doing it correct by blasting first it will not cost much more to have it powdercoated.

I paid 200.00 to have my frame powdercoated and could not be happier with the result. Most areas it may cost more but well worth it.

To me the POR15 is used for one reason. Trying to cut a corner and do it on the cheap.

If you are going to spray vs brush, roll its different but it will simply not look as nice when done.

I tried POR15 once for just that. Taking a short cut and never again. Maybe for covering mud puddles or  . . .

If I was doing a chassis and POR came and said here is free materials and 1000.00 in cash I still would not use it!

Just look up photo's for end result using "poor15" then make your own decision

At Drag Week in 2007 I blew up a supercharger on the drive down to the event, and then after replacing that broke the transmission at the test and tune, and Joel and I stayed up all night pulling the transmission, having a local trans guy fix it, and re-installing it so we could race the next day. But at 56 years old, those days are behind me; I wasn't up for a massive thrash that may or may not fix the car.   After all the work I'd put into this car over the last few months, I had already decided that if I developed a major problem at Drag Week I wasn't going to bust my hump to get it fixed.  And this was obviously a major problem. 

Sorry to hear Jay. I was really looking forward to reports for DW.

I hear what you are saying about being 56 yrs old. I will be 58 in a few months and I thought building headers for my truck was going to be a breeze. Its taking forever because once I get under it I have a difficult time getting back up.

Hope the report on engine is not a big $$ failure.

NOS still in the package chrome front bumper. C4TZ part number

This does fit the 64-66 Trucks but it does not have the bevel on end like a original truck would. I bought it NOS to fit my 427 truck years ago. It was in wrapper and a large wooden crate. I simply never looked at it and took the guys word it was the 64-66 style. When I opened it recently found its more the 67-72 Style.  I paid 500.00 because so hard to find. Will take 350.00 OBO

A lot of truck guys here restoring so thought I would try here first . . .

Super hard to find a 3/8 fuel sender for a 66-67 427 Comet~Fairlane.
This was off my '67 427 Comet. I have given up on idea I would buy it back some day.

I also have the rear tailpipe hangars from same car

A long time ago a forum member was looking for a nice windshield washer bottle and bracket for a 1966 Comet. When I went to send it I could not find it. Well I found it the other day . . So to that person or someone else looking. Looks like new . .

Need funds to finish my 427 Truck project. Keep watching as will be adding parts here vs starting another post . .

DynoTech was closed when I called or at least no answer.

So far:

Inland Empire is 324.00 for a 3" Steel & 415.00 for a 3.5 ALum

That is using my 1350 trans yoke

MW quoted  429.00 for the 3" chromoly & 559.00 for the 3.5" Aluminum

Both for estimated length of 49"

When I started this build I re-used my stock 28 spline axles and yoke in the 9"
I did add a Yukon posi

So looks like the next week link will be the center section.

MW quoted me 606.00 for a pair of axles and 1890.00 for a "N" case unit complete.
I flat out do not have the $$ for either.

Once I am doing the driveshaft I have to make sure it will hold the power and then plan on doing center once I see how many hidden $$ are required to get truck on road. At least I can drive it with current axle if I take it easy..

I have another '66 F100 416 FE project waiting (back burner) I can use the current center and axles for.

Looks like its time I start to unload some not needed parts . . .

Edit add:

Spoke with Strange

They quoted 319.00 for a Chromoly 3"  They do not do Aluminum shafts

They did say the 3" shaft they do there are people running 2000 HP with that shaft

So far all 3 places have been very helpful. I would give them all a A+

I will call DynoTech in morning or wait for a return call before I bite the bullet and order one.

Wait times have been from 48hrs to a week & 1/2

Thanks to all for reply's so far.

I am in Phoenix AZ Metro area, far north side