I'll give it a try here in the next week or so and report back with my findings.

Rock auto does not carry radiators for a 65 galaxie with an fe engine.  They only have them for galaxies with SBF engines and those radiators dont have the inlet and outlet on the same side

Quote from: Dieselman966 on January 14, 2019, 08:10:06 AM

I finally got some measuring done on my block.  I'm seeing as much as .010 from my highest measurement of .0705 to my lowest of .0805.  Seems like a  lot of variation or is this pretty typical.  My tdc was off by one degree. Checked with a hard stop.

I'm not clear on how you are measuring this, but the .010 variation could easily be in the connecting rods.  I check deck variation with an indicator by using the same conecting rod and piston and moving it from hole to hole. A little time consuming but it seems an accurate way to check a block.  (Have you checked the center to center length of the rods?)
(About 50 years ago I once "repaired" a rod knock in a '53 Desoto for which another rod was unobtainable, by grinding the crank, just cleaning up the rod and resizing it. It was almost .050 shorter, but Grandpa never knew!)

I measured the pistons as they sat in the bores with a dial indicator and a magnetic base. 

I ended up having the block decked .070 and the heads surfaced another .020.  I also had the machine shop take .090 off of the intake side of the heads so the intake would match up properly.  Well see how it all comes together now. I have the first 2 pistons installed so far.  Number 1 is .010 in the hole still. I'll check the rest as I go along here.  Hopefully this will get me burning rubber for a few years until I can build the 390 for it.

What are you guys using for replacement radiators.  My stock one needs to be record and will cost $600 locally.  My as well upgrade if its gonna cost that much.

Looks like I have something going on in this engine. Seems like a lot of wear for it being a fresh rebuild.

My427stang

 I have plenty of metal laying around to make up a tool like that. Sounds easier than messing with the dial indicator.  I'll talk with Blair about his pistons some more.  Sounds like I'll have less problems with the pistons instead vs milling the deck that far down. I'm guessing the intake wont line up very good if I take that much off the deck.

Captcobrajet

I'll PM you for a price on those pistons. Are the stock rods not good for around 300 hp?  I'm just trying to get this 352 to run better.  At some point I'll be building a stroker for it but that's down the road quite aways.  I have a $1000 budget  could maybe swing $1200 to get it done.  What's the best option here?  The machine shop here said $400-$600 for a bore and hone job. Decking the block is $360,  $75 to mill each head and 200 to hone the bores to ensure a good seal.  Looking at $710 plus tax to go that route.  I'll call around to a few other shops in my area and see what they have to say too.

Rustycrankshaft
I'll get in touch with one of those guys for a camshaft.

My427stang
Where would be a good place for custom pistons with the correct compression height?  Talking with a local machine shop about this and the cost between decking the 352 and stroking with a 390 rotating assembly will cost $1000 more. 
On a side note my measurement wasn't accurate for piston in hole depth.  I was going off the wrong mark on the balancer for tdc. I'm waiting on my dial indicator to show up to find tdc and remeasure.  Guess I should have posted here before I ripped the motor the rest of the way down.

Captcobrajet
Sounds good. I'm open to ideas here.