Every application is different but using stubs allows for pressforming, less destortion at the flange and easy straightening if it occurs. Once the stubs are fully welded you then add the tubes while bolted to a head or fixture. Without them the flange joint is welded last... For this reason some companies blob mig wire around the ports so the flange remains it's full thickness after being plained. The length of a stub can be ajusted or angled and there is no reason one more weld in a multiple piece header has to ruin the look. As with any joint it can be metal finished and polished on stainless or sets to  be chromed. Should one  not use them the expansion method is still viable for a full primary tube.  You may need to adjust them here and there but it's a significant saving in time vs hand shaping each one from scratch. More important is that guys who tack, torch and hammer are introducing carbon at the flange weld. Carbon hardens the weld, increases burn in temp, the possibility of contamination and cracking. You certainly don't have to use stubs and at times I choose not to but they are a viable time and problem saving method.

 Speaking head spacers with big strokes M/T did that in 64 on 289's. What's funny about that is it leaves guys scratching there heads when they are so lucky as to find the blower manifolds. Due to the deck spacers a clearly Windsor intake is often too narrow for a 351 that didn't exist yet and too wide for the 289 noted by the part number.

 

 

  Stock is 1 to 1 but if you're a 660-870 fan you'll often find the secondary cam reshaped to delay the opening rate. You can do as much damage as good there real quick but it's something I still mess with to even out the bogg or surge you can get from them.

Hey, I had no issues with Scott and also appreciated his views. But geez, attitude counts too and dragging others through the mud has no place here..nor any Ford blog. I also have some contrary views on 'stuff' but would never denigrate our pro engine builders nor even totally rookie novices!

 Hey, Bob

 A different point of veiw even when it's not the accepted method is far more valuable than more cheerleadng is all I was getting at. I do agree with you here about being civil but I also feel the counters to his somewhat brash statements resulted in farther detail and guarded information than if one were to simply ask in a polite manor.  Tipping of the hand a touch if you will...  Poke a guy's ego or tout yours and more often than not someone will spill the beans. I've done it but lucky for me the best I have to offer is usually discounted by more popular individuals. Lol

, Dan


 

 

 I think that's your connection, the hamonic cancelling allows for a more free flowing design that would otherwise be pushing the decible level. Think about it in terms of making the entire exhaust system one big flowmaster muffer. Equalizing pressure or some pulse overlap may be happening there as often pressed, IDK. I have had times were adding an H or X to an existing exhaust system felt like it did something. What I've also noticed is that at times I was driving by ear and running the engine harder now that the system was quieter so it obviously was making more power being run at a higher rpm.. No series of slips either, generally just people that read magazines and decided they needed one.

 The inertia ring or crank hole itself can be off center on the balancer.

 Do have an angle finder/protractor? Dial it in where at ride height the carb pad is level. Then adjust vs pinion angle... See how bad it is as you want the mount as close to nuetral as possible. A little tweak won't matter as the weight of the engine/trans is going to compress/distort the mount slightly anyway. You still want it close if can't make it perfect as a twisted mount makes removing and installing the driveline more difficult.

  I've never found any one of those type of kits that account for this out of the box properly. I just make own most of the time but on a customer supplied set you can usually shim your way there. If not you'll be into modifing or returning the set up.