Good stuff Jay

First, let me ask you to break the calculator back out, as an MBA and Strategic Intelligence grad, I'll have to lean on you to tell me how to mathematically get to the answer to my question

So, if you look at what you calculated, could you back it into a "resistance to change" calculation?

What I am trying to say is if you had a an engine at 450 ft lb at a steady 2000 RPM with one flywheel, is there enough information to calculate how much difference in torque the motor would have to provide to keep one or the other flywheel at 2000 rpm with an increase in load? 

I assume there would be time and load variables in there too, because once the inertia is "eaten up" the motor would have to work harder to keep the wheel spinning.

Thanks

Jay, be sure to spray any metallic paint at the pressure and viscosity identified by the manufacturer and probably the MOST important thing is make sure the paint is mixed well in the can.  You wouldn't believe how much a well-shaken can "changed colors" on me when I was a kid and "knew better than my dad"  It didn't take long for me to learn that the metallics needed to be carefully mixed

I used to do a lot of insurance work and spraying silvers and other mostly metallic paints can look very different with just a pressure or tip change on the gun, not as critical for a complete, but when blending a panel you want it as close as it can be.  Silvers can get much more "silver" and these light blues and light greens act very much like silver as well.

Light blues also tend to be a little transparent as others have noted, but certainly the difference between your car and the striped stocker are more than just primer and pressure.  I would be amazed if your car darkened to match the stick though just with a few more coats.  My guess is your car was a bench mix, or some other factory color from a different vehicle make or model.

Also, I have found those spectrometers to be very very close if the guy is good at using them. Not sure what happened for yours.

If you really want to shoot the car in the color you want, maybe you should prep some test panels, (tape an old door or hood into 4 panels and buy 4 pints of colors you are on the fence with) clear the whole panel if you are using b/c then decide on a color

Awesome Jay

Get to slotting those holes Kerry  

Failure to do so only delays it until later, after the first exhaust leak

Good luck!  The car looks like a serious ride, looking forward to your updates. 

Kerry,
Here is a post on an AMC forum about the P3.

http://theamcforum.com/forum/new-pertronix-ignitor-iii-done_topic10306_page1.html

My opinion is give it a shot, it doesn't look like it will be as powerful as a true CD ignition, but the only real question seems to be around stable triggering within a noisy distributor. 

I have had a lot of experience in the old days with magnetic proximity sensors and they can be pretty accurate with small movements. 

As a secondary problem, IMO if the distributor body is accurately grounded and you don't try to run excessive plug gap, noise won't be an issue. 

I am afraid to post this because it may sound like I recommend it, I don't, I don't think you'll have an issue, but.....if noise really became a problem at high RPM, you could make a cover which would ground any interference from the cap and rotor, but that would only be required in the most hostile environments, and I really doubt you will be there. 

Something like this but made of metal could be pretty easily made.

http://www.mid-enginemania.com/product_images/m/322/1230500147__25723_zoom.jpg

Truthfully though, I think your dyno operator put some doubt in your mind with the last motor, when all that was really wrong was that you were 15 degrees late on timing.