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Messages - cleandan

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376
FE Technical Forum / Seems like too much gas smell from the carbs.
« on: May 01, 2020, 10:30:38 PM »
Hello all you happy people (using my best Droopy voice)
I am working on a dual quad 427FE in an ERA Cobra roadster.
BJ/BK carbs with one modification being the front carb has no choke plate.

There is no gas leaking anywhere.
I have no pull over at idle in either the primary or secondary.
Throttle blades are dry at idle.
Idle screws are out 1.125 turns.
Floats are currently set with just the slightest fuel tip out with the plug removed and me rocking the car.

Yet I am getting a pretty heavy gas smell in some situations.
I have looked for ANY signs of any fuel leakage, anywhere...None.
I am looking for fuel being pushed past the needle and seat but I find no evidence of that.
But there it is, heavy, raw gas smell.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any and all helpful suggestions.

377
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1-wired alternator and V-belt squeal
« on: April 30, 2020, 02:34:34 PM »
With a V-Belt, the tensioner does not work well like it does with a poly-V belt.
If you use a tensioner with V-Belts you should run the pulley on the V side of the belt.
If you run the tensioner on the back side of a V-Belt it tends to break the back of the belt and they wear out pretty quickly.

Running the tensioner on the back side of the belt will allow you to force the belt to wrap around the pulley more...with a longer belt of course, but it is not the best way to do things with V-Belts.

This is but one of the reasons the makers went away from single V-Belts.
The Poly-V Belts are capable of transfering more torque in a smaller area and being wrapped around the pulley more with less issues.

378
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1-wired alternator and V-belt squeal
« on: April 30, 2020, 10:05:30 AM »
allrightmike, that is exactly what I am talking about. The amount of belt contact around the pulley has a huge impact on the power that belt can put into the pulley.
There are other factors used to determine which belt is best: how much wrap, the diameter of the pulley, the physical size of the belt, and the belts speed, among a few other things.

But, basically, if you get more belt to pulley contace, you increase power transfer.

Yes, I have seen some belt to pulley applications with about 30 degrees of belt wrap, basically the belt is passing by the pulley. But if the pulley being driven does not require much power it will work great.

379
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1-wired alternator and V-belt squeal
« on: April 29, 2020, 04:51:53 PM »
V-Belts run on a few principles.
Look at the side view of a V-belt.
The cord body you see is where the power is transfered.
The rubber V below the cord body is there to keep the belt from being forced inot the pulley groove.
The rubber above the cord body is there to give substance and stability to the cord body.

V-Belts squeal because they are slipping...I know. EVERYBODY knows that.
But did you know the slip can come from worn pulleys, worn belts, dry belts, overheated belts, wrong sized belt for the pulley groove depth and groove angle, improper tension, belt whip, contamination in the air or directly on the belt.

The belt size, and pulley diameter/contact area play a big role in the amount of power a belt can transfer.

With your one wire alternator keep in mind it was probably designed for use with a poly-V Belt rather than a single V-Belt.
The poly-V Belt is capable of transfering much more torque than a single V-Belt and often poly-V pulley is designed smaller in diameter too. This often results in a smallish single V pulley being installed on the alternator in order to keep the same speed as the original intended use...and this often does not correlate to a good fit with the FE installation.

Worn pulleys get a bulge cut into them where the cord body of the V-Belt rides. Once this worn area is deep enough (does not look like much wear) the new V-Belt can not transfer proper torque because the cord body is not in proper contact with the pulley.
The belt will slip, squeal, and wear quickly but then a new issue pops up.
The belt is no longer a linear sided V-belt. Instead it now has a weird bulge shape to match the pulley and this never allows for full power transfer...It also causes other issues.

If the pulley has the correct depth and angle, and is not worn.
If the belt is the correct size (V shape, angle and depth) and riding at the correct depth in the pulley. (the V-Belt should be almost flush with the top of the pulley, or slightly recessed in the pulley, not sticking up any amount above the pulley.)
If the contact area around the pulley is maximized for the application and location and you still get belt slip...Then you need to change to more pulleys in order to transfer the required power.

380
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 Manual Reverse Valve body and possible 1966 C6
« on: April 28, 2020, 10:47:29 PM »
The 1966 C6 was the one and only year C6 with its own unique shift pattern.
The 1966 C6 got nicknamed the "green dot" transmission because the green dot was what we call the "drive" position today.

The 1966 C6 shift pattern: P, R, N, 2nd/3rd only, Green dot/drive, 1st only.
All other C6's from 1967 on shift pattern: P, R, N, D, 2, 1.

If memory serves correctly this was a shift plate/valve body issue. If you swap out the shift plate/valve body to something newer I think the newer parts will work because you got rid of the 1966 only pattern.

If the trans you have has a manual valve body installed you are probably past the unique shift pattern problem already.

381
FE Technical Forum / Re: Anyone use a synchrometer to help tune dual quads?
« on: April 19, 2020, 10:48:07 AM »
Thanks for the reply funsummer, but your post seems to assume a lot concerning the use of this particular engine and car. WOT is important in many respects but when the car in question will spend basically no time there it becomes the lesser worry.
This car, eventhough it has a very nice dual quad 427, will spend a LOT of time at idle, or just off idle.
With that in mind, if I can achieve the best idle, and transition, I think all the other aspects will fall into place pretty good.
The ultimate in HP is not important here, nor is the quickest ET or highest MPH...All that is just extra that will never be realized because of how this car will get used.

382
FE Technical Forum / Re: Anyone use these header gaskets? Flat out
« on: April 17, 2020, 01:47:05 PM »
Just another chiming in on using no gaskets between the head and exhaust manifold or header...Heat shield? maybe, but no gaskets.
Get the head mating surface flat and true.
Get the header mating surface flat and true.
Get both surfaces very clean.
Use a thin film of Ultra Copper, or similar high temp sealer.
Bolt things together and for the firts few heat cycles recheck bolt tightness...Done until you choose to take things apart.

Getting the header flange trued up sometimes takes effort and time because you have to weld up and grind off material to get a good finished flange.
In the end, specially considering what it takes to redo the header gaskets, the time and money spent getting the flanges right is well spent in the long run.

383
FE Technical Forum / Re: Speedway Motors -Ford FE Series Big Block V8 Rubber Motor Mounts
« on: April 17, 2020, 01:41:08 PM »
Unfortunately, at this time anyway, I don't think a "good" set of motor mounts exists in stock form. NOBODY is investing any money, tech, or anything in this old style, rarely used mount.
This means, to me anyway, regardless of the name on the box they are all made as cheaply as possible...and probably by CH-iNA incorporated.

Hopefully they at least fit right out of the box...so many aftermarket parts don't even do that these days.

384
FE Technical Forum / Re: Anyone use a synchrometer to help tune dual quads?
« on: April 17, 2020, 01:35:54 PM »
Drew, about how far open are the secondaries when using them to set idle?
Say from just closed, 1/8 turn, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn...? (too bad that screw is hard to access)
This dual quad setup is in an ERA Cobra, 427, BJ/BK carbs, that sees primarily street cruising and show gathering use. I am setting this up for the owner and he states he will probably never race the car.
I suspect his hot road adventures will consist of fun onramp bursts, and maybe a stoplight run here and there, otherwise it will be simple driving around.

Currently things work and run pretty well but I just want to try and get them spot on for road use if I can.

385
FE Technical Forum / Anyone use a synchrometer to help tune dual quads?
« on: April 16, 2020, 10:26:23 AM »
Hello all.
I am wondering if anyone has ever used a Synchrometer (STE-SK or other) to help tune dual quad carbs? In this case BJ and BK carbs.
I am thinking, with an adaptor to cover the whole carb inlet, or just the primary inlets, this might be a good way to get both carbs in synch at idle.
Any thoughts.

Thanks and have a great, but 6 foot seperated, day.

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